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Old 11-07-2013, 01:56 PM   #15
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Here are the only valves on my system. The top one is the bypass valve and the bottom one is the one on the discharge side of the pump..
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:57 PM   #16
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Ok, that helps a bunch.

Based on the pictures it's a lot clearer now, but it also raises a couple of questions also.

First, I see from the water heater by-pass that your heater is obviously remote and probably only accessible from below.

Secondly, I see from the upper picture that even when the valve on the output side of the pump is closed there's another path for the water to take, there's a T fitting on the output side, the valve only closes one side of that. Where does the other side go to?

The part that has me mystified though is your comment "...my owners manual says the fresh water tank can be filled either by using the fill on the side of the motorhome or by opening the by pass valve and opening the valve on the pump line. When both are closed the water pump will then draw water from the tank as normal.". The by-pass valve is just that, it sends water around the water heater instead of through it. The second valve (the one in the lower picture) only stops water flowing out that side of the T fitting, it doesn't send water anywhere new (like the fresh water tank) instead. Further, the pump inlet side cannot be altered by opening or closing the outlet side flow. This makes me even more curious about another valve somewhere. That or someone's really fiddled with the plumbing in your rig.

Happy to help, give more info, get more feedback..


R.W. Bro. Murf. LOL.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:36 AM   #17
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The line with the valve goes over to the waterline (cpvc pipe). I am going to do some experimenting with the help of a plumber that lives here is the park and change some of
the connections around. I have always believed when the prev owner replaced the pump there was more damage done to the system and other things got replaced and was done wrong. I misquoted (Obama rule #999) what the owners manual said: It says control valve (assuming it means one by pump) to fill fresh water tank when connected to city water. I found out that the bypass valve had to be open, when I turned on the water for the first time and left it open and it filled the tank and overflowed. If the bypass is not open, then the tank won't fill from city connection. That's when I started thinking something was totally screwed up in the system..
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:27 PM   #18
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I have a valve like the valve in your first picture. Mine controls whether the incoming water goes to the fresh water tank or supplies the MH. Any chance that the valve was replaced and even though the label says Hot Water Bypass, it is really the valve to select city water or tank fill?
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I have a valve like the valve in your first picture. Mine controls whether the incoming water goes to the fresh water tank or supplies the MH. Any chance that the valve was replaced and even though the label says Hot Water Bypass, it is really the valve to select city water or tank fill?
I can just rely on the owner's manual and the valve labeling as far at the valve in the first picture goes. I really think it is not suppose to have anything to do with filling the tank. The second valve I think is the one that is suppose to control the tank, but something has been changed and pipes are hooked up wrong or the valve is in the wrong line. Going to talk to the guy that offered to help me today and see about doing some experimenting next week.
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:30 PM   #20
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I notice the tee and elbow connectors in the picture of the pump etc. are very expensive (and convenient) fittings. The pex pipe in my coach is put together with the much less costly crimp-on style. Is ALL the other water plumbing made with these more costly style of fitting?If there is a mix,there may have been big changes made earlier.Just another shot in the dark!
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:06 PM   #21
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I agree,exwrench. Have looked at several water systems and none use the kind of fittings that are mine. Took a drive down to the RV lot that had the 2001 PA 33V, and wouldn't you know it the system is nothing like mine. I am hoping someone on here with a PA that has the water pump mounted in the storage bay behind the rear tire on the passenger side, and the water tank mounted in front of the rear tire on the same side, will see this and send me a pic or drawing of their system. I am pretty sure my problem is the plumbing at the pump and there should be another shut off valve or check valve in the system, I found a clear plastic globe looking thing that had threads(busted)on one end and pec fitting on the other. It was stuffed in the back of one of my storage boxes. Looks like a filter or surge suppressor. Still trying to figure how to get the fittings to release the tubing if they do, have pushed on the collar and pulled on it, they don't move. Going to start disconnecting the fittings at the cpvc pipes that run under the floor and see what happens if I by pass the pump completely..
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Old 11-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #22
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Update: Finally realized I had a diagram of the pump plumbing, checked it this morning and as far as I can tell it is correct. I disconnected the discharge side of the pump, capped the pump and plugged the line. Turned on city water, opened and closed every valve I can find in every configuration I could come up with(only 3 so not to hard)Still no hot water on hw side of faucet and finally got cold water both sides. Waiting on my neighbor to come by and see if he can spot the problem. If not guess I am either going to have to live with filling up the water tank or call a repair service. I am at a total loss, don't make sense to me, but know there is something I am missing..
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:43 AM   #23
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You say you are getting cold water on both sides of the faucet, is there water in your HWH?

Cold water at your faucets HW side isn't surprising, but it's very telling if you do and the HWH is empty.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:51 PM   #24
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You say you are getting cold water on both sides of the faucet, is there water in your HWH?

Cold water at your faucets HW side isn't surprising, but it's very telling if you do and the HWH is empty.
The HWH is full, took the plug out to make sure. Just when I managed to get water from both sides of the faucet, there was still no hot water and that was with the bypass valve open. Put everything back like it was and turned the pump on and get HW and CW like a normal faucet. I just don't understand it, but have a call in to a local repair guy to see what he would charge me to come look at it and give me an idea of cost to repair it. Tired of the pulsing water at the kitchen faucet(only one that does it) and listening to the pump run and then come on and go off sometimes at night. I figure an accumulator would help, but not until I get the system fixed..
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #25
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My neighbor told me about a RV repair service that only charged 65 an hour and would try to give a estimate before the work began. As we were leaving the park, I ran into the guy. Asked him if he would look at my system and give me an idea of cost to diagnose it, etc. Informed me that he charges 85 a hour and does not give estimates or ideas as to what might be the problem. Told him what my neighbor said, and his reply was: I don't know where he got that from, the last repair I did for him cost him 3 hrs @ 85 an hour. So much for the local repair guy. Must be all these really rich snowbirds that won't get their hands dirty that keep the costs up. Back to the drawing boards, the DW said to forget it. I said ok, when the pump burns out an it cost 100.00+ to replace it, then we will see who hollers...LOL
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:51 PM   #26
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Maybe I used the wrong term. Is the HWH full or pressurized? I.E. if you open the plug / drain is there just water, or flowing / pressurized water?

There's two issues IMHO, first, why no hot water, but second, what is affecting the water direction / flow?
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