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Old 11-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #1
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No heat in new coach

Picked up my new 2014 itasca Sunstar yesterday in NY. Gas furnace was fine, running during PDI. Full tank of propane. Driving back to Delaware we hit snowstorm. We pulled into truck stop, started furnace, wet to sleep. Awoke at 2am, temp in coach 30 F. Outside temp 15F. Gas light on fridge blinking. I figured it was too cold for propane to flow right. F

Finished the trip home, now it's 34F but no gas heat. Furnace will come on, run for less than a minute, then stop . Refrig running fine on propane.
Any one have any ideas? The furnace ran for about 30 minutes during PDI

Linda
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Old 11-24-2013, 03:45 PM   #2
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Check the voltage on your batteries. May be too low for your fan to run....
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:00 PM   #3
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Are you sure thermostat is on correct setting?
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:23 PM   #4
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I would also suggest batteries. Driving home on dead coach batteries won't charge them up. Use an external charger for a few days. Furnace motors will kill batteries quickly.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:40 PM   #5
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Could be that your dealer didn't give you a full propane tank. I believe that the tank manufacturers put some propane in the tank after testing them. That keeps moisture from getting in the tanks. So if it was understood the tank should be full-- check to see when two gas using devices have problems-- to me it's likely the problem isn't the appliances but something common to both. so could be no propane in tank 2. could be your carbon monoxide monitor has tripped and you need to push the reset button. Last maybe a wire came off to the valve the monitor controls, or you could have some moisture in your lines which when it's cold freeze and block the flow of propane gas.
I'd do the easiest first- find your monitor and push the reset button.Try turning on your stove burner and see if it lights. If no burner lights, go open the propane service door and check the gauge to propane level. Some time when the popane has been off for a while the line will fill with some air -- so give the burner a few seconds to light. (If you hold a one of those extended butane appliance lighters you get at the flea markets if there is gas movement --you should see the flame move a bit as the air in the pipe move by.)
I'd start there, hope this helps.

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Old 11-24-2013, 04:46 PM   #6
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Assuming the LP tank contains some gas, if a butane/propane mix was pumped into the tank that could be the problem. This explains: Propane Butane Mix - Evaporation Pressure
You'll notice that at 32 degrees F, butane will not vaporize = nothing to fuel a flame.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:06 PM   #7
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Batteries are full charge. Now we are home and plugged in, but furnace will only run a few seconds.. Monitor reads that tank is full. Will check stove tomorrow
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:21 PM   #8
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is there a flame sensor like on a home furnace?
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:20 PM   #9
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Since you have a new coach and are a long way from the seller, call the furnace manufacturer and locate someone locally who they will authorize to do warranty work. I did that with an air conditioner recall issue and an HWH jack replacement.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:46 PM   #10
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There is normally a sail switch near the blower.

That switch is activated when the blower turns on and that in turn allows the furnace to light up and heat.

Do you ever hear the propane lighting? If so, then the sail switch is working like it should.

If not then see if you can locate the sail switch and make sure it is moving freely.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:41 PM   #11
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When you say that your furnace runs for a minute and then shuts down? Question is, do you get warm air or is it just the blower? If no heat, then it could be the sail switch weak, batteries weak, or failing main gas valve. They are tied together. Good batteries makes blower move sail switch far enough to open main gas valve to allow to ignite.
If you get some warm air and then it shuts down, you could have a bad Hi-Limit switch (heat disc with two wires) that is misreading the temperature and doing a safety shutdown. They are simple and safe, but sometimes hard to work on. I once had a $200.00 insect in my orifice that prevented the main burner from igniting. I also had a small spider web in a gas patio heater that did the same thing. Now i seal the external openings to the furnace and fridge when stored. You should have that done on warranty anyways.

Good luck
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:39 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the advice. I called the dealer, they suggested a few things to try, which i will do after work tonight.

Umm..Sorry to hear about the 'insect in your orifice' SSWILSON. some of my patients have come in with a similar problem. Sealing your orifice is likely to result in pain. See your doctor, instead
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taigarazz View Post
Thanks for all the advice. I called the dealer, they suggested a few things to try, which i will do after work tonight.

Umm..Sorry to hear about the 'insect in your orifice' SSWILSON. some of my patients have come in with a similar problem. Sealing your orifice is likely to result in pain. See your doctor, instead
Thanks for your concern. I will do my best to prevent pain in the future
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Old 11-25-2013, 03:12 PM   #14
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If your showing a full tank of propane and your stove has a nice flame and your fridge works on gas, then you should be OK at the furnace as far as gas goes. If your batteries have a full charge and it won't light, you must have an ignition problem. If it lights and shuts off right away, it could be a sensor.

I had a similar problem and checked sail switch, replaced the circuit board with a Dino and changed a couple of other things. Finally took the furnace burner apart and a small amount of rust particles clogged the gas jet. Cleaned it all out and it worked fine after that. Yours is new and shouldn't have a rust problem, but maybe something is blocking it and not letting it light...I think it should try to light about 3 times and then it locks out. That should be enough to purge any air in the line...
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