No propane

[HD4Mark]

Here is all I have up top. No problem getting to the tank with the passenger side slide out but we are not in a good spot to put it out and crawl under. Can easily survive without LP for a couple of days so I will update after getting set up Friday.

[HD4Mark]

P.S. doing this on my cell phone is why it looks so sloppy. Big thumbs, small keyboard.

[ahicks]

How cold? Is it near or below freezing? Are you in sloppy, wet conditions? If so, you are in conditions ripe for a frozen up regulator. With any luck, and the weather warms over the next couple of days, a frozen regulator could thaw and start working again. So you have that working in your favor if that's the case.

If that scenario proves out, the next chance you get, turn into a larger propane dealer (not a gas station or truck stop) and have them add some methanol to your tank. If they're capable, they'll know what you're talking about and have everything handy to allow them to do that. If not clear regarding your request, they likely aren't capable.

The methanol (just a couple ounces) will eliminate the frozen regulator potential in the future. It's common practice when filling/dealing with home heating systems and is just as effective on RV's - but much less commonly done. Generally super inexpensive, maybe 20 bucks tops. We used to do it free....

[firedoc]

When (if) you are under the coach, have someone operate the emergency shut off valve. If you can't hear it, place your hand on the valve. You should be able to feel it open and/or close with the switch.

[TnThompson]

Same thing happened to me couple weeks ago. Started diagnosing from the valve back. Took everything off valve and got propane, attached regulator and no propane. Replaced regulator and all is good. $30 fix and 20 minutes time. The diaphragm in the old regulator had developed a crack and was causing the flow to shut off about 1 second after valve was turned on. 1st regulator I've ever had go bad but it was a quick fix.

[jmcannonball]

QUOTE "Here is what I have so far. Keep in mind I'm at a truck stop. Where the remote fill is there is an emergency LP shut off switch. Not a valve. It was "on" meaning the gas is shut off.
I have the same remote switch. When the switch is ON the LP is ON. If you operate the switch, you should be able to hear a distinct "click" of the solenoid at the tank. Also, when I got my tank filled, the attendant did not have to crawl under the coach and turn off the manual valve.
I had a "no LP" problem a few months ago and after several hours of searching I found a broken wire connection near the solenoid. You can go to the link below for more info on my LP problem.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/no-l...es-292691.html

[HD4Mark]

We got to the CG and got the slides out so I could easily get at the tank and the back of the switch. I figured the switch would be a good starting point and the easiest to get at. The rear of the switch has two wires and a plug that connects to it. Yanked off the plug to find the connection on the plug green. Yup corrosion. Quick wiped off the connector, blew out what I could then connected it back up, clunk went the solenoid. Went in and tried the range top and got a flame.

This is excellent as we are at a site with only 30amp so running the electric hot water, A/C and anything else won't work. Yes A/C. it's 80 today here in S.C. The water tank is running fine now on LP.

After we get settled in I will clean the contacts better and put some dielectric grease on them.

Thanks to all for the great info. Even though some of the suggestions were not the problem, they are priceless to me for any future no propane problems.

BTW I did first try the search for "no propane" and for whatever reason after looking at about 20 kind of unrelated results gave up and just asked.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by HD4Mark

We got to the CG and got the slides out so I could easily get at the tank and the back of the switch. I figured the switch would be a good starting point and the easiest to get at. The rear of the switch has two wires and a plug that connects to it. Yanked off the plug to find the connection on the plug green. Yup corrosion. Quick wiped off the connector, blew out what I could then connected it back up, clunk went the solenoid. Went in and tried the range top and got a flame.

This is excellent as we are at a site with only 30amp so running the electric hot water, A/C and anything else won't work. Yes A/C. it's 80 today here in S.C. The water tank is running fine now on LP.

After we get settled in I will clean the contacts better and put some dielectric grease on them.

Thanks to all for the great info. Even though some of the suggestions were not the problem, they are priceless to me for any future no propane problems.

BTW I did first try the search for "no propane" and for whatever reason after looking at about 20 kind of unrelated results gave up and just asked.

HD4Mark
I'm happy to learn that you've solved your "no propane problem"...and even happier that it didn't cost you anything.

Finding and fixing a corrosion problem can be an expensive fix.

In June of 2002, (after overnighting in a Minnesota rest area), my then 6 year old, (39,457 mile), coach started normally.... but the Allison shift pad displayed "DO NOT SHIFT"... (and it WOULD NOT shift out of neutral).

I had my coach towed 25 miles to Detroit Interstate Diesel in Bloomington, MN, an Allison authorized Allison dealer.

4 days later they called and informed me that they had found and replaced a corroded wire running from my chassis battery to the Allison VIM, (vehicle interface module).

The cost to me was $1833.43, ($266.24 for the tow and $1567.19 for diagnostics and the replacement of a 20 foot piece of 14 gauge wire).

BTW Detroit Interstate Diesel initially tried to charge me $2137.43 ...(but when I flatly refused to pay $2137.43 to find and fix a corroded wire they reduced it by $570.24).

Mel
'96 Safari 148,000 miles, (120,000 mine).

[Jim_HiTek]

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Good info for others. If there's any forum lurkers, especially with older RVs, thought I'd add some additional info...

Back in the olden days, there use to be a propane sensor in the kitchen of RVs that operated an electric valve that you had to shut off before a fill. So the tech would ask you when you drove up if everyone was out of the house and the propane shut off. Which you did by turning off that sensor. Then by law, he was required to manually shut off the propane at the tank as shown in an above picture before filling.

So you'd drive away, and later in the day, hilarity would ensue as I searched in vain for the reason there was no gas. Lots of head scratching. In my case, first I'd remember the sensor was off and turn it back on. Than a half hour later, I'd remember that the manual valve on the tank was off.

Since the fills were so seldom, (installed a Hotrod electric element to the water tank so didn't use much propane), I'd forget between fills. Heh.

[Carhauler]

Check wire connector to solenoid at tank. Could be green. WHEN you activate the switch you should hear a click when solenoid powers up. NO click no power.

[HD4Mark]

Originally Posted by mel s

HD4Mark
I'm happy to learn that you've solved your "no propane problem"...and even happier that it didn't cost you anything.

Finding and fixing a corrosion problem can be an expensive fix.

In June of 2002, (after overnighting in a Minnesota rest area), my then 6 year old, (39,457 mile), coach started normally.... but the Allison shift pad displayed "DO NOT SHIFT"... (and it WOULD NOT shift out of neutral).

I had my coach towed 25 miles to Detroit Interstate Diesel in Bloomington, MN, an Allison authorized Allison dealer.

4 days later they called and informed me that they had found and replaced a corroded wire running from my chassis battery to the Allison VIM, (vehicle interface module).

The cost to me was $1833.43, ($266.24 for the tow and $1567.19 for diagnostics and the replacement of a 20 foot piece of 14 gauge wire).

BTW Detroit Interstate Diesel initially tried to charge me $2137.43 ...(but when I flatly refused to pay $2137.43 to find and fix a corroded wire they reduced it by $570.24).

Mel
'96 Safari 148,000 miles, (120,000 mine).

Mel here is a link to our Allison trouble http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/chec...rm-276781.html also only a corroded wire. We went round and round with an Allison service that sent a mobile tech out only to have the same problem again and fixed it myself. Finally got Visa to charge back $700 worth of not fixed. They tried to send us another bill about a year later.

Our friend that works (not on Allison) for a Detroit Diesel/Allison said "all those Allison guys do is chase wires".

It blows my mind what crap wire and connections RV companies and their suppliers use for something constantly exposed to the elements. Some in road salt or near the ocean.

[JohnRR]

Thank you for the update they are important for those who may do a search of the subject in the future.

Originally Posted by HD4Mark

We got to the CG and got the slides out so I could easily get at the tank and the back of the switch. I figured the switch would be a good starting point and the easiest to get at. The rear of the switch has two wires and a plug that connects to it. Yanked off the plug to find the connection on the plug green. Yup corrosion. Quick wiped off the connector, blew out what I could then connected it back up, clunk went the solenoid. Went in and tried the range top and got a flame.

This is excellent as we are at a site with only 30amp so running the electric hot water, A/C and anything else won't work. Yes A/C. it's 80 today here in S.C. The water tank is running fine now on LP.

After we get settled in I will clean the contacts better and put some dielectric grease on them.

Thanks to all for the great info. Even though some of the suggestions were not the problem, they are priceless to me for any future no propane problems.

BTW I did first try the search for "no propane" and for whatever reason after looking at about 20 kind of unrelated results gave up and just asked.