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05-16-2005, 01:33 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brick, New Jersey
Posts: 273
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I have a Norcold Refridgerator Model 462 in my 1993 RV. When using the fridge on propane, it will periodically spark to ignite as if the flame is not lit, however the flame is lit. Sometimes if I blow into the sight hole it will stop for a while but then come back. It used to happen only once in a while but now it happens very frequently. If I just turn the switch off on the front of the fridge but leave the knob turned to "gas" it will stay lit. I thought that if the thermocouple was bad then the flame would not stay lit. For some reason the fridge does not think it is lit and keeps sparking.
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Rob Hentges
31ft Dutchmen Royal Classic
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05-16-2005, 01:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brick, New Jersey
Posts: 273
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I have a Norcold Refridgerator Model 462 in my 1993 RV. When using the fridge on propane, it will periodically spark to ignite as if the flame is not lit, however the flame is lit. Sometimes if I blow into the sight hole it will stop for a while but then come back. It used to happen only once in a while but now it happens very frequently. If I just turn the switch off on the front of the fridge but leave the knob turned to "gas" it will stay lit. I thought that if the thermocouple was bad then the flame would not stay lit. For some reason the fridge does not think it is lit and keeps sparking.
__________________
Rob Hentges
31ft Dutchmen Royal Classic
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05-16-2005, 03:49 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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Rob, Try cleaning the senser with the wire on it, there maybe carbon built up on it an can't tell its lit because of it. --"007"
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05-16-2005, 05:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brick, New Jersey
Posts: 273
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Which sensor with a wire on it are you referring to? What I see in the area of the flame is a copper thermocouple with the heavy copper tube/wire that is above the flame. There is also a red wire attached to what I think is the thing that creates the actual spark. What confuses me is that the flame continues to burn. I thought that if the thermocouple sensor was bad, it would stop the flow of propane, causing the flame to go out. So, the control that lets the gas flow knows that the flame is lit, but the sparking device on the fridge does not know it is lit.
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Rob Hentges
31ft Dutchmen Royal Classic
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05-16-2005, 11:30 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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007 is refering to the spark electrode that may need cleaning. IF that does not correct the problem then the relighter is probably bad. Id does sound like you have a model that used both a thermocouple to hold the valve open and a seperate lighter that also sensed the presence of a flame and if the fire went out the reighter would do just that "relight" before the thermocouple had a chance to cool off too much to shut off the gas valve.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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05-17-2005, 04:47 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brick, New Jersey
Posts: 273
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I did not realize that the spark electrode could also serve as the sensor for the fridge. I will take your suggestion and try cleaning that today.
One time I noticed that some rust had dropped into the tube where the actual flame comes out. Instead of a nice clean blue flame, this caused the flame to burn yellow. Maybe this allowed some oxidation to form on the sensor. It still sparks well, but just does it when it doesn't need to. I have a green light on the front of the fridge that is supposed to light when the flame is lit. This light tends to flicker or go out when the igniter is sparking even though the flame is lit.
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Rob Hentges
31ft Dutchmen Royal Classic
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05-17-2005, 11:58 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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The relighter spark electrode is not really the sensor on this design. THe thermocouple still is the flame sensor to hold the gas valve open. The relighter electrode will relight the burner (if wind or anyother reason) the flame is extinguished while the thermocouple still has not dropped out the gas valve. THe relighter does in effect sense the flame but does not hold the valve open. It will just try to relight. I have seen a relight be bad in just this senerio. If cleaning the spark electrode does not correct the problem then a new relighter is in order.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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05-18-2005, 04:35 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Brick, New Jersey
Posts: 273
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Thanks all for your advice. I think the problem is solved. I mentioned earlier that some rust particles fell onto the openings of the burner tube right where the flame comes out. When I poked a tool in there to knock it off, I think I must have accidentally hit the sparker, bending it just a little bit further from the flame. On mine there is a 90 degree bend which places the tip of the sparker very near the flame. When I removed it, I found that it was no longer at a 90 degree bend, it was just slightly off. I re-formed the sparker, cleaned it off and re-installed. I ran the fridge for several hours yesterday and it seems to be working fine now.
__________________
Rob Hentges
31ft Dutchmen Royal Classic
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