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Old 04-01-2007, 05:01 PM   #1
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I am unable to operate the refrig on propane....Tank full...stove and hot water heater fire up immediately....Fault NO FLO...Unit not used for a couple months on propane, less than two years old,...Any suggestions before going to dealer
Thanks
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:01 PM   #2
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I am unable to operate the refrig on propane....Tank full...stove and hot water heater fire up immediately....Fault NO FLO...Unit not used for a couple months on propane, less than two years old,...Any suggestions before going to dealer
Thanks
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:54 PM   #3
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Copied from a Norcold Troubleshooting Guide:
  1. <LI> Do the oven burners light?
    <LI> RV LP gas tank is NOT empty.
    <LI> RV LP gas tank valve is in open position.
    (That's my 3 dumb questions of the day but . . . I had to ask.)
    <LI> Refrigerator solenoid gas valve manual shut-off is open.
    <LI> LP gas pressure at the solenoid gas valve pressure tap is 10.5 to 11.5 in. w.c.

Check Burner - Burner clean?
No -&gt; Clean Burner
Yes -&gt; Check that electrode to burner air gap is correct?
Air gap 1/8 to 3/16 inch?
No -&gt; Set Air Gap to 1/8 to 3/16 inch
Yes -&gt; Check spark sense electrode assembly for continuity
Continuity?
No -&gt; Replace Spark sense electrode assembly
Yes -&gt; Check gas valve solenoid resistance
79 to 85 ohms?
No -&gt; Replace gas valve
Yes -&gt; Check gas valve wires for continuity
Continuity?
No -&gt; Replace gas valve wires
Yes -&gt; Check voltage across power board terminals GV and GV_GND
Voltage present?
No -&gt; Replace Power Board
Yes -&gt; Faulty gas valve - replace gas valve.
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Old 04-02-2007, 05:50 AM   #4
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HERE is a link to another thread where symptoms were the same as yours. The fridge was on a slide-out and the propane line was kinked. I don't know if your fridge is in a slide-out, but I suppose the line could be kinked somewhere even if it isn't.
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:03 AM   #5
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If you are getting propane to the burner unit and the unit is clean then check the igniter board (which includes the igniter itself) and the main board that switches between AC/DC (if applicable) and propane.

I believe you can pull the igniter out and see if it is sending a spark.

As always, when working around propane and 110v please be careful.

Ed
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:17 PM   #6
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Had a similar problem w/ new 4 door Norcold. Problem was a bad design on the vent cap that allowed underway downdraft of hot fridge exhaust gasses to fail the overtemp limit switch.

Apparently there's a kit to fix this issue w/ new flue cap and temp switch.

Note, this problem also stopped fridge from operating on electric mode too.

Tech at RV dealer in Wiln NC used a 20 fuse to jumper around the switch until we got the parts in.
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Old 04-05-2007, 08:52 AM   #7
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In my case it was a bad contact between controller an igniter. Cleaned the spade terminals on the controller wiring and it "sparked" to life. Sorry about that
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Old 04-05-2007, 05:04 PM   #8
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Jack,Norcold refrig should come with cooling fans at top of fridge with a thermal switch to turn fans off and on. Last summer many came without fans or had defective thermal switch. Some coachs with refer in slide required a baffel in upper vent to deflect the heat out of upper vent.
Your freezer may work but your box temps may not get below 40* without proper installations.
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