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Old 05-29-2018, 12:48 AM   #1
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Norcold troubleshooting

Woke the bus up from its winters nap, plugged in, everything was working fine- for awhile... Had the fridge plugged running on AC, was working just fine like it always has. After a couple of hours I walked by the vent and heard the burner, hmm. Went inside and it's blinking and beeping "NO AC". I switched it to AC, and 3 seconds later NO AC again. And about 10 seconds after that, "NO LP" starts up. Turning he fridge off and back on would fire the burner again. Took a meter outside, I had AC power to the board... That was Saturday, rig is at our boat harbor. Left the fridge running on gas, went home, and downloaded a manual. Today- Monday- I went back out to check on serial numbers and troubleshoot. First thing I found, flame is out and the fridge is beep-blinking "NO LP". I powered off the fridge, turned it on, and the burner fired right up. Went outdside, pulled the LP spark wire with some needlenose and as soon as the connector pulled away from the spade, it started snapping a spark. Could hear it snapping from inside too when starting the LP from OFF. Powered down, went back out, pulled the AC cord, then pulled the power board cover, and found the 5 amp fuse was black. I brought some 2 amp fuses, was all I had handy- popped one in, went in, started the fridge on AC... had the green light for 3 seconds, then the fuse blew. I found a 10 amp fuse in the truck, one of the new versions, after a little MacGuivering I got that fuse to stay put long enough for a test fire. It immediately blew too...

SO- the F3 fuse blows immediately even at 10 amps, indicating something is definitely bad, and the flame won't stay lit- I don't know if this fridge cycles the flame on and off or just lowers the flame to adjust for temp, but regardless, it goes out and won't re-light until the fridge is turned off first.

Never had a problem with the thing in 8 years, and it was working perfectly when we mothballed it last October. The past 2 summer seasons the rig has been parked with the fridge running 24-7 from May thru October. And it started out working fine on Saturday-

I'm assuming either the board is bad, or the heater coils are somehow shorting to ground-- or both, or? I've checked all the wires for bare spots & such that could create a short, other than 18 years worth of dirt buildup I found no wire problems-

So what do I do next before throwing money at the thing? I'm okay with putting in a new board, but how to verify it's the problem? And in the manual I found some info on checking the resistance of the heater coils, but IIRC that was for a different model fridge... Guess it would be easy enough to check the coil wires for a short easy enough, but what readings are good if I don't find a short?


Any help greatly appreciated!
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:13 AM   #2
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You might consider talking with this guy if you don't find your answer here.

Norcold Parts by Norcold Refrigerator Model (find all of the parts for your model!)
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:07 AM   #3
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I appreciate the link, thanks! Nice to know where the parts are...


Looks like worst case is I can totally rebuild the thing for around $1500 if it comes to that. Beats the near $4000 new fridge price tag too --aside from the price tag I've been worried about the fridge not even fitting thru the door...


After researching possible problems: I've found no evidence of the cooling unit leaking. And as for troubleshooting the control board, it dawns on me that I should just disconnect the heater wires from the board, THEN do a fuse-blow test. I'm hoping in the end the problem IS just the board, it's a 1/2 hour $200 fix
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:11 AM   #4
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What model Norcold are we talking about? I'm guessing a 1200 or 1210, but hard to know what those fuses do without more info.



Get a service manual for your Norcold at Service Documents and Manuals


It appears you have a problem with the AC heater, maybe shorted, but that wouldn't affect the gas burner.


By the way, the burner goes off when cooling is not needed and gets re-lit when needed. The flame should be a constant size/height when on.
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:43 PM   #5
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It's a 1200, I have manuals, and good to know about the flame- I suspected it would just shut down with having a piezo sparker, wasn't sure. With it firing on startup but failing to fire after a cool-down, I'm hoping that's an indication of a bad board (since it appears much easier to replace than the heater!)
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:42 AM   #6
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Well if all else fails JC refrigeration has an all electric compressor type cooling unit replacement for the 1200 and it's way cheaper than a typical fix
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