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Old 09-29-2013, 09:21 PM   #29
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It's all made from crude oil, being full synthetic, blend or regular old Dino oil. If Walmart don't sell it I don't buy it. They sell the 15-40 Rotella in one quart, one gallon, 2.5 gallon, 5 gallon pails, 30 gallon drums, 55 gallon drums and 250 gallon bins. They are cheaper then anybody in the business. They will order you in any amount in any size container you want. The so call super premium oils are sold by individuals in a pyramid type scam like amway, herbelife and Avon and Mary Kay and many others. Way overpriced and no better then the mainstream oils.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTom View Post
I am not an expert but have done a lot of research. Not your typical Internet searching, but review of real engineering studies. (Yea, that degree come in handy sometimes).

There was a very interesting study by the army years ago. (Can't find it or would post) The conclusion, in simple terms is oil never wears out but gets contaminated. Yea, we can talk about acidic composition, dirt, the list is long.

The bottom line for me is synthetic.
TexasTom..
You are right about oils getting contaminated.. But that is also true about synthetics.. I use synthetic in my Diesel Grand Cherokee as Jeep says that is the only oil OK for the Mercedes Diesel.. But in my coach (all 25 Qts.) my other car and all my small engines I use dino and change it with great regularity.. Because of the contamination..
I realize that Synthetics have better flow characteristics, heat tolerance and other things But cost being a factor I can change my Dino twice as often as Synthetic and get the contaminants out! My 97 Explorer went 250K without ever having the engine opened up and is still running well and my grandson is driving it.. As I told him.. Just change the oil and filter every 5K all will be well..
My coach.. Once a year or about 8K..
Ron
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #31
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I had to take a Subaru engine in for a cylinder head rebuild and it had about 130,000 miles on it. I had used synthetic in it from about 10,000. Subaru engines, horizontal opposed cylinders mean interesting wear patterns. The original hone marks were still visible no ridge in the cylinders. Subaru # 11 lasted to 300,000+ thousand miles, # 12 is going strong at 150,000 miles after towing our tear. The first thing I do with a Subaru after break in is change all the oils to synthetics, good for a couple of MPG in sub zero temps.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:51 PM   #32
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I know a retired Ford Engine durability engineer. He stated a few things about oil to me and others on another site.
one was NEVER buy a synthetic blend oil. They always seem to be about halfway between the regular oil price and synthetic price and there is no standard as to what the synthetic content was. 10% synthetic 90% dino oil
Two is that you can have 80% of the benefits of synthetic oil for less money by using a mix of 20% synthetic/80% dino oil.
I know that last one sounds a bit strange But I have done it for years with no ill effects.
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:41 PM   #33
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I have heard several folks using Amsoil in there engine and grease for the tranny and rear end. Has anyone had good or bad experiences with the Amsoil product ?
Was thinking of changing my oil out. Need some good feedback on this. If this product is no good that could be quit expensive if something goes wrong.
My opinion is stick with a major retail brands like Mobil one, Purple or Castrol. The synthetic oil is the best. Keep it simple but use the best. Why spend 100 k on a MH then not use the best oil.

Amsoil I've used for a short period in my car, but felt it wasn't worth the extra money because I changed it at 5k like the other oils I used. The key is using a good filter. The main issue with engine oils is impurity from the engine. Todays oils can withstand almost any engine temps without breaking down, but impurities are the issue. There are many stories of people never changing their oil, just the filter and getting over a 100k.
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:16 AM   #34
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I have personally seen engines torn down that were run on nothing but Amsoil, and the pistons, rings and valves looked brand new.
I was testing out a inspection camera on my 4.0l Jeep motor and the accessory on the tip of the camera fell off in the number one cylinder. Long story short I had to pull the head to get it out. The engine, at the time had 189,000 original miles on it. I have used Amsoil in it since 89,000 when we bought it and the engine looked excellent. Since I had the head off I had it inspected and the machinist argued with me about the mileage. He told me there was no way that it had 189,000 miles. The Jeep now has 250,000 miles on it and it runs great. When ever I change plugs I do a compression test and all the cylinders are within 3% of each other and comparable to engines with half the mileage. I have no complaint about Amsoil at all. Great product!
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Old 09-30-2013, 01:22 AM   #35
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My opinion is stick with a major retail brands like Mobil one, Purple or Castrol.
Amsoil ($10.15) is a major brand. It is available at many retail automotive stores and it comparable in price with Mobil 1 ($8.99), Castrol Syntec ($8.99) and Royal Purple ($9.79).
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:28 AM   #36
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My opinion is stick with a major retail brands like Mobil one, Purple or Castrol. The synthetic oil is the best. Keep it simple but use the best. Why spend 100 k on a MH then not use the best oil.
......
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Amsoil ($10.15) is a major brand. It is available at many retail automotive stores and it comparable in price with Mobil 1 ($8.99), Castrol Syntec ($8.99) and Royal Purple ($9.79).
Those prices for Mobil 1 and Castrol are much higher than what you can buy it for at wally world. They are alwasy a buck cheaper than that.

I've never seen one bit of hard info that Amsoil or royal purple are worth one penny more that Mobil 1, Castrol, or Pennzoil synthetics .
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:41 AM   #37
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"I've never seen one bit of hard info that Amsoil or royal purple are worth one penny more that Mobil 1, Castrol, or Pennzoil synthetics . "

I agree, as todays oils for the most part are pretty equal.

I live in the 5th largest metropolitan area and there are no retail stores that carry Amsoil, as Amsoil uses local distributors, mostly guys selling from their website or out of their garage. I have a friend who is a local distributor of Amsoil and I ordered from a website where freight cost added to the expense, wasn't worth it in my opinion.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:02 PM   #38
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amsoil

I have used amsoil in four different chain saws, a leaf blower and string trimmer at the 100-1 ratio. I have not yet to suffer any problems whats so ever. I read once if you use synthetic at the same ratio as dino oil -- there can be trouble. I think for sure, one needs to use it exactly as amsoil advises. So the ratio you use for regular 2 cycle oil would be too rich when using a synthetic. I know I was a little hard to convince that it was OK, at that 100 to one ratio but I had a friend who was using in his ski boat. After being out with him and seeing how much less smoke that two cycle engine made and it ran quite and strong. He had synthetic in that boat several years before I saw it. I think his engine was specked to run 50-1. My saws manufacturer were suggesting 40-1 but I use amsoil at 100-1, now for 11+ years.

My 95 Winnebago motor home, I used 10-40 amsoil in the engine and it ran very quite and strong for a 95, last year when I sold it. Actually I mean to say I couldn't detect any degradation in the engine performance at all from the time I bought the vehicle when it was several years old till the time I sold. The lifters were perfectly quiet, not even on start up, after a long time of disuse, would the make any noise. My mh was a gas engine which when working hard can develop very hi temp in the head and valve area. Synthetics with their much higher oxidation temps are a better choice in hard working gas engines. You're much less likely to have oil thickening and the resulting engine failure.

Some company's in the trucking industry have found that the advantage of better lubrication and the resulting efficiency boost makes synthetic oil to them a good thing. Course running the oil longer means they usually add extra and much better filtering, to minimize contamination problems. At the very least change existing filter regularly . And for sure have the oil analysed checking for too much contamination, etc, so as long as they can keep it clean synthetic doesn't wear out or thicken like dino oil. So even with these extra filters and resulting cost when you run 10,000 miles in a month--- the resulting savings in fuel, out weigh the increased costs of better filtering.

I as a dp owner haven't changed over to synthetic yet cause I just don't drive enough miles to justify the upfront increased costs. I'm still a pretty new to pusher power and haven't studied pro & cons for my type of use. I will say if I drove more than the 4 thousand or so miles I drive now a year, I believe it would be a different story-- for me.
I think the costs has to be balance with your particular use, willingness to learn about the products and make an informed choice. To be sure synthetic are't for every one. I know there are some difference between the base stock in various synthetics. Some are a little more expensive than others and perhaps better if you need every advantage you can get. But generally I think a case can be made that synthetics minimize wear, increase efficiency, hold contamination in suspension better so the filters can remove it.

those are some of the thought and things I have learned, hope it helps
Loren
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:54 PM   #39
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Amsoil is nothing more than an overhyped marketing scheme.
Their products are adequate, but no better than major brands at any auto store.
Any CJ-4 rated diesel oil changed at recommended intervals will keep your engine running for it's full lifetime.
IMO, Amsoil was founded on P.T. Barnam's famous philosophy.
If you want good synthetic to run in your coach, buy some Rotella or Mobil synth.
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