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Old 05-31-2010, 10:21 PM   #15
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We go to Speedco. The last time we were there, they were doing a change on gasser next to us.
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:08 AM   #16
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There seems to be a new business nitch growing in certain areas throughout the country for mobile lube service like this one. You call them, make an appointment and they come to you, as long as your RV park will allow it.

Here is another one.
These mobile services are not removing the oil drain plug - they suck up the oil (as far as I can see on the photo's). Maybe i am wrong, but when you suck up the oil I wouldn't have thought that you would be able to remove metal shavings etc like you do when "flushing" the oil out of the drain and here have the opportunity to clean the oil plug.

Is the mobile way as good as the traditional way? Do the engine manufacturers consider sucking the oil up an acceptable alternative?
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:43 AM   #17
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put me down as one who believes 3-4000 mile oil changes are nothing but "profit centers" for those selling the changing.

I typically go 7-8000 on dino oil, double that on synthetic.
Hot Rods and other occasisional use thingy get an annual, in the spring.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:48 AM   #18
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These mobile services are not removing the oil drain plug - they suck up the oil (as far as I can see on the photo's). Maybe i am wrong, but when you suck up the oil I wouldn't have thought that you would be able to remove metal shavings etc like you do when "flushing" the oil out of the drain and here have the opportunity to clean the oil plug.

Is the mobile way as good as the traditional way? Do the engine manufacturers consider sucking the oil up an acceptable alternative?
You may be right about the extraction method, some may suck up through the dip stick and some may do it the conventional way. The point is to run your engine before an oil change to get wear particles suspended in the oil so they will be removed when the oil is drained. I guess your other concern is will all the oil be sucked out? I suppose if they don't get the tube all the way down to the bottom of the pan then anything below the tube will be left behind. Unless your vehicle is level or at least tilted toward the drain plug, all the oil will not be drained. All these concerns can be answered by talking to the company if your interested.

It reminds me of the days when I had my sailboat. The Yanmar engine never had a drain plug in the oil pan and the only way to get the oil out was to use a hand pump to suck it out through the dipstick. I always wondered if I got out all the oil and found out when I added the new oil.

By the way I have no financial connection to these companies. I just think they will be a great benefit to other fulltimers like myself.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:08 AM   #19
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put me down as one who believes 3-4000 mile oil changes are nothing but "profit centers" for those selling the changing.

I typically go 7-8000 on dino oil, double that on synthetic.
Hot Rods and other occasisional use thingy get an annual, in the spring.

Jim,
My owners manual says the oil change interval is 15,000 miles or one year. My pet peeve is changing the oil at the end of the year with only 2000 or 3000 miles. I know the reasons why they say it, but I think to a certain extent the manufacturers are protecting their warranty with my dime. Many OTR (Over-the-Road) fleets are using oil testing to determine when the oil is changed. The cost to them for an engine overhaul is much less than the lost opportunities for hauling freight because of the down time.
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:47 AM   #20
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For the past 18 months or so, I've been using an oil drain valve from QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil; the version I'm using is the one on the right with the extension on it. I put about a 1ft. piece of clear plastic tubing on the extension, open the valve, and the oil drains neatly into a 1 gallon milk jug. When the 1st container is full, I close the valve, get a 2nd milk jug in place, and finish draining. The oil then goes to either the local recycling center or an auto parts store that accepts used oil. Maybe a drop or two goes on the ground when changing milk jugs.

Removing the oil filter still makes a mess though. The next time I change oil, I'm going to try using a 3rd milk container cut in half to see if that'll catch the drippin's ... !

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Old 06-02-2010, 07:44 PM   #21
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Guess I'm an old guy and have always changed oil every 3500 and filter every other time in all my vehicles and same for the V-10. As hard as the V-10 is driven hauling the living quarters at high RPM, I'd rather change the oil more often than an over haul.
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:04 PM   #22
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I change my oil every 5,000 miles. I also change my oil filter. As the old mechanic said " you can change the filter now or you can pay me later". Five dollars for a filter is cheap insurance with the load on the engine.
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Old 06-03-2010, 07:38 PM   #23
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Why not use Camping World? I've never used them but you could call ahead and make an appointment.
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Old 06-04-2010, 12:39 AM   #24
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Why not use Camping World? I've never used them but you could call ahead and make an appointment.
Most Camping World will not touch any diesel Class A's - not even carry out an oil change. I have asked why and can't get any answer that makes sense.

In the spring Camping World had big adverts where they offered to repack axels on any RV for X amount of $ per axel. I tried to maker an appointment at 2 different locations and both places refused to carry out work (any type of work) on Class A diesels.

I have been told by friends that Camping World in Orlando will make an oil change on a Class A diesel. Maybe they are the exception to the rule?
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