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Old 06-04-2013, 01:57 AM   #15
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If you are good with a dermatologist, borrow his or her liquid nitrogen can. cool the plug with at least one canfull of LN2 and hit with hammer. the plug should break into little pieces. If the plug does not break, while its cold remove with pipe wrench. I have removed many stuck bolts this way as heat will cause the bolt to expand and lock tighter. Warning__ the LN2 is cold enough to freeze tissue (your finger ect) so be very carefull and wear gloves and eye protection
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:39 AM   #16
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Had the same problem a year ago with my Onan 7500. No way to get a pipe wrench, etc on the plug as it is recessed. I thought about ez out, but instead I went to an auto parts place and bought a stud removal set. There are several different sizes, like a socket. You tap the right one on, and the harder you have to turn them the more they bite in and grip the "stud". BUT BEFORE I removed it, I got a replacement plug. Interesting to note that the replacement has a larger head ...looks like a pipe plug.

This year the problem was the dessicant filter ...BOTH were last serviced by IP Trucks in Ft Worth where they apparently use gorillas for mechanics.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:57 PM   #17
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sometimes you have to weld a washer onto the rounded plug to give you enough room for a nut big enough for the job, I have done this many times on my old tractor, loosen the drain plug as soon as you are through welding and then wait before removing it till cooler.an oil change pump will get almost 3 quarts out but is really hard to get into the onan. i did this on mine until a friend told me how to loosen the plug with a 3/8 " extension, drive the end that goes onto the rachet onto the plug and turn it with another wrench, but this of course is not going to work for you now.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Welding a nut to the existing one (or bolt) is where I'd start. It also applies enough heat to possible free it up (much more than a blow torch)...........
I lkie this idea. I also like the Pipe wrench idea as well.
one way or another the plug needs removed.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:21 PM   #19
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Wonderful advice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LDP243 View Post
...a friend told me how to loosen the plug with a 3/8 " extension, drive the end that goes onto the rachet onto the plug and turn it with another wrench, but this of course is not going to work for you now.
I tried everything to get a grip on the head of the oil drain and kept removing metal on the edge. Tried a 3/8" extension with a pipe wrench on the end and came out with NO problem. Thanks for the sharing!

Tom
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:25 PM   #20
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Well Gang,

Almost year ago to the day, I posted a series of problems I was having with my Onan 7.5QD. One of which was the infamous "sensor" that has given so many motor home owners a fit. Well, that sensor, was EXACTLY as hard to get out as the OP is having with his oil plug. I too used just about every tool in my tool box to try and get it out.

Well, in the end, with damage done beyond repair to that mean little sensor, I ended up using a can of "Freeze" on it. It's already been suggested but, not quite in the procedure I did. What I did was, heat the surrounding area with a pensile tipped propane torch and, then, sprayed directly on that sensor, some of that "Freeze". I did it for about 5-7 seconds. Now, up to this point, that sensor was winning the battle and the war.

But, as soon as I put the can of that Freeze down, and put on a vise grip that was already set for the proper size, what was left of that plug, almost spun out by hand. I didn't need any torque on those vise grips what so ever.

Now, I don't know if the OP could use the same tactics because there's oil still in the pan and that oil will draw the heat away from the surrounding threads of the plug. And, in my situation, there were two different metals involved, brass and aluminum. But, in his situation, I'm thinking both the plug and the threads of the pan are steel. Now, will that make any difference, heck, I don't know.

Will my tactic work in his situation, don't know that either. At this point in time, it might be worth a try. Never heard of an oil plug being that hard to remove. But, I'd have never, ever thought my temp sensor would have caused me the grief it did either.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:43 PM   #21
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+1 on welding. The plug is a bit recessed if I recall so Mig may be hard to get access. If you cannot weld then just drill out as another poster said. Once you get a lot of the plug drilled out it will come out. If you do have to drill, I would rinse the oil pan with either oil or diesel to rinse any stray shavings out.

Oh, don't overtighten the new replacement nut ;-)
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:43 PM   #22
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Sounds like an excellent time to install a Fumoto valve. They come with different sized threads. You could drill and tap new, smaller size threads (select the valve first) into the OEM plug, screw in the Fumoto valve and you're done. Never to deal with a stuck pan plug again.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:16 AM   #23
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I did

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Sounds like an excellent time to install a Fumoto valve. They come with different sized threads. You could drill and tap new, smaller size threads (select the valve first) into the OEM plug, screw in the Fumoto valve and you're done. Never to deal with a stuck pan plug again.
I found an ez drain at O'Riellys. The size is 1/2"-20. Mine wasn't stripped yet.

It is similar in function to the one mentioned above. Manual recommends oil be changed every 150 hours. This will sure make it easier. Best $10 I have spent.

Tom
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:04 PM   #24
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Have a fumoto on my 7.3PSD, and love it with one exception. It drains slowly enough that a slight breeze blows the oil from hitting my drain pan.

Back to the OP - Any luck yet?
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:49 PM   #25
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AKEYZOO... I had the same issue on my Duramax... get a length of clear plastic hose and fit it on the Fumoto nipple and feed it into the oil pan.
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:13 PM   #26
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I had the same problem. The 3/8 extension worked great. Replaced the old plug with a new 1/4" cap plug from my local hardware store.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:56 AM   #27
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Using a torch, you'd have to get really hot because you have a few quarts of cooling media directly above the plug (a few quarts of oil).

Also, when welding, keep the ground clamp as close as possible to the electrode. Not sure where a good spot is since the Genset might be isolated from the frame by rubber mounts.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:00 AM   #28
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