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Old 08-02-2011, 06:12 AM   #15
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To completely drain the oil you need to get the drain plug out, I would never darken the door of any place that sucked out oil from the fill tube. I would use an impact wrench after having soaked the plug in a penetrating oil for days (clean it off prior to trying to put a wrench on it). I had some bolts on a 72 Saab Sonett that I soaked with Kroil for three weeks prior to using an impact wrench, and the brake adjusters for the rear drum brakes required that I buy a square wrench.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:16 AM   #16
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAN L View Post
you can suck the oil out of the fill hole. harbor freight has a suction gun for this purpose.

Search results for: 'oil suction gun'
Fairly common on boats.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:48 AM   #18
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Buy a good expensive socket that won't break, use a breaker bar and hit the end with a heavy hammer. It will pop loose. I have changed the oil in three new Onan generators and that is how I removed the drain plugs.

Then, good luck with the oil filter.
my onan 5500 marquis gold genny has a valve on the bottom aft side of the fill port with a drain line that goes under the genny for draining the oil. ims it is a 1/4-1/2 turn valve. it drains the oil very well, all 2 quarts of it. i don't know if my genny even has a below decks oil sump drain plug.
napa sells a 3 jaw cam type filter wrench that works well for removing the oil filter. the part number is 775-9018. the wrench works better if i keep a rubber band around the 3 jaws to keep it tight.
the op's question was specifically about draining the genny oil, not any engine oil sump.
imho sucking the oil out of the onan genny through the fill hole would be a very good alternative to removing a balky oil drain plug.
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:08 AM   #19
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Take your socket and use the square side of a socket that attaches to the rachet. Use the socket that the normal side will fit in the square post of a breakover bar and a little muscle will remove the plug. Remember, Onan probably used a Gorrilla to tighten the drain plug.
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:24 AM   #20
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FYI... Wintergreen oil available at most drug stores in 2 oz bottles is the best penetrating oil you will find. Liberally apply it with a cotton swab around the drain plug head. Wait a couple of days and do it again. Never found a seized bolt yet that that did not work on. In your case a little heat may help as well. Be carefull if it goes BANG, RUN.....!
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:53 AM   #21
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The plug should have oil on it now, it sits in oil I would try the impact gun
then try a local machine shop to see if they have a secret
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:59 AM   #22
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A picture might help figure out what to use.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:04 AM   #23
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Pipe wrench if all else fails.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:09 AM   #24
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So I wasn't the only one that had trouble getting the oil plug out of the gen set. Who do they have installing these things and why so tight?

I was luckier than the OP, I did, eventually, get mine out without rounding it off, but what a PITA, and all while laying on your back with inches to work in.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:22 AM   #25
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If all else fails you can try an easy out tool if you have the space to get a drill in that area. You can pick up the easy out a most auto parts stores. It'd be messy but it can be done.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:33 PM   #26
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Unfortunately, some of the quick lube places also cross thread and over-tighten drain nuts 'cause the workers know very little about what they are doing!
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:39 PM   #27
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Seized plugs should be soaked with Kroil - It has been tested by laboratories and surpasses durn near every loosening agent - but wait ! A mixture of 50/50 acetone and tranny fluid has been tested to work almost as well as kroil. [That Wintergreen oil post must have been a funny.]
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:23 PM   #28
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I finally got the plug out. Used one of those special sockets with teeth and a pry bar.
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