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08-01-2011, 12:43 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,295
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Oil drain plug too tight
Went to Speed co for an oil change and Genny service and they could not get the oil drain plug off the Genny.
Slapped some W D 40 on it and I tried with my socket wrench when I got home with no success. Wont budge. Now the socket slips on the nut. How the heck do I get this thing off? Any suggestions?
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08-01-2011, 01:14 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,943
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Blow it or suck it out of the dipstick tube if you can't get the plug out.
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08-01-2011, 01:16 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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If the head of the plug is too rounded off to use a tight fitting socket or box end wrench, then your next best option is a pipe wrench with possibly a cheater over its handle. The extra torque may break it loose, but try applying a good penetrating oil (not WD40) and tap lightly on the plug with a hammer before straining a muscle pulling on the thing. Running the genset to warm up its crankcase may also help loosen its grip on the plug. Once removed I would replace it with a new plug, and "not so tight" this time! Good luck, Ed
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08-01-2011, 01:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 799
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Buy a good expensive socket that won't break, use a breaker bar and hit the end with a heavy hammer. It will pop loose. I have changed the oil in three new Onan generators and that is how I removed the drain plugs.
Then, good luck with the oil filter.
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2005 Dutch Star 4015
Cummins ISL
2007 Honda CR-V
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08-01-2011, 03:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 8,638
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They make sockets just for stripped off bolts buy one and use a long breaker bar.
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2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
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08-01-2011, 04:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 323
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I tried everything on ours, every wrench I had, I even bought and tried splined sockets, that are supposed to work on almost any shape. Nothing worked, very exasperating. I was at the point of drilling it out. It was a square head plug, best guess 10mm. I finally had to take it in. They got it out and put a hex head plug in its place. Should be much better next time.
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USN, Retired
2020 Grand Design Momentum 25G
2022 Silverado 3500, 2007 Honda Goldwing
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08-01-2011, 04:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fowlerville, Mich.
Posts: 606
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2X on all the ideas. It might sound weird but first try to tighten it a little bit then try to remove it. It has worked for me a number of times on "too tight" bolts.
Greg
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2000 Monaco Diplomat 40PBD
2012 Grand Cherokee Limited
2008 FatBoy, three spoiled Great Danes and a cat.
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08-01-2011, 04:17 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 2,457
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A trick that's worked for me at times is to buy a six point impact socket that is just a bit smaller than what would be required if the drain bolt were new. Then hammer the socket on, and remove with a ratchet handle or breaker bar. With the breaker bar, you can continue to hammer as you apply torque to the bolt.
Swapping between metric and fractional is helpful for "in-between" sizes.
As an example, 13MM ia a bit smaller than 9/16 inch, and 12MM is a bit smaller than 1/2 inch.
Easy to compute with 1 inch = 25.4 MM
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2008 Itasca 37H
2011 & 2012 Len & Pat's "One lap of America"
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Yellowstone Lake 6-1-2012
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08-01-2011, 06:34 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bryan, TX when not traveling.
Posts: 22,948
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First, make sure you are turning it the correct direction to loosen it. If it is rounded, you will want to replace it and the gasket/washer anyway, get the pipe wrench and a cheater bar and break it loose.
When reinstalling, use a new gasket/washer and do not over tighten it.
Ken
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08-01-2011, 09:30 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 250
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Look at this link! The vice grip pictured in the lower left will remove items with rounded heads if you can get them locked on and then are able to grip them in some manner.
http://www.gooregonindustrial.com/ir...kingpliers.htm
Dick.
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08-01-2011, 11:55 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Use a propane torch to heat the area around the bolt, some PB Blaster, a pipe wrench and cheater bar should do it.
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08-02-2011, 12:54 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,295
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Appreciate all the feedback. Now I have some things to try. The comment about blowing or sucking the oil out.... was that a joke or is it actually something that can be done?
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08-02-2011, 01:24 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monacoach
Appreciate all the feedback. Now I have some things to try. The comment about blowing or sucking the oil out.... was that a joke or is it actually something that can be done?
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you can suck the oil out of the fill hole. harbor freight has a suction gun for this purpose.
Search results for: 'oil suction gun'
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L 5sp allison SW Wa,. Good Sam, SKP. RVM 198 AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. Michelins, TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '21MB GLA FWD on dolly
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08-02-2011, 04:24 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Some of the quick lube type places do it that way.
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