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Old 04-12-2013, 03:34 PM   #15
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We went to Cummins this a.m. and picked up the new inverter/controller. Spent the afternoon removing and installing. Fingers crossed, pressed the button and victory dance un the CG road. Thanks to everyone that helped.
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Old 04-12-2013, 03:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD4Mark
We went to Cummins this a.m. and picked up the new inverter/controller. Spent the afternoon removing and installing. Fingers crossed, pressed the button and victory dance un the CG road. Thanks to everyone that helped.
Always easy with checkbook.
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:23 AM   #17
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Update: The generator ran fine all the way home and each monthly start until yesterday. Started it for the monthly run, ran for about a min and quit. Started back up and same thing. After that it would not start and gave a fault code 34. I have the service manual, it says check the heat sinks to see if they are fouled, check the blower fan... all looking for blockage to cause over heating. Well it did this cold so I don't think that is it. Reduce the number of appliances connected at the same time. Same thing with nothing connected. Last replace controller. Swell if that is it I hope the warranty is more than 4 months and even if so the hours we spent replacing it don't count.
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:02 AM   #18
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New update and a chance to bump this up again. This morning with a less frustrated outlook I tried it again. 3 blinks pause 3 blinks, press stop, 2 blinks pause 4 blinks. Hmmm fault code 24 I would swear it was 34 yesterday. Maybe with the frustration of it not starting and the thought that my $1800 part went bad my vision was cloudy.

24 is a temperature fault that from what I have read is likely to be the sensor. It is also bypassable. Anyone know how to do this? Just unhook it? I have the service manual but it really doesn't explain it, just says it is. I would not leave it bypassed, it would be an easy test.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #19
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I have an HDKAK which is not the same genset but the codes are more than likely the same. A 24 says its a temp sender(sensor) fault. It could be wiring but more than likely it's the sender. The fact that fault 33 is a high temp fault suggests that it's not reading hot. It's more than likely reading out of range which indicates a shorted sensor or wiring.

That said, I don't think YOU can bypass the sensor. My service manual says that faults 17, 18, 23 and 24 are bypassed when a second attempt to start is made. Basically it will automatically bypass these faults when you try and restart the generator.

My manual also says:

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENDER FAULT—CODE NO. 24*

(Controller did not sense temperature change during first 5 minutes of operation)
Corrective Action:

1. Remove the top housing panel (p. 6-4). If loose, reconnect engine harness spade connector E3-1 to the coolant temperature sender (p. 12-3, 19-1).

2. Disconnect engine harness connector P1 from the controller assembly (p. 10-2). Check for electrical continuity between pin P1-12 and connector E3-1 and for missing, bent or corroded connector pins and repair as necessary.

3. Replace the coolant temperature sender (p. 12-3).

* – This is a bypassable fault (p. 18-1) prior to Spec F. Note also that an open circuit is sensed as cold temperature, resulting in maximum pre-heat
and post-heat times.


Good luck. Keep us posted.
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Old 08-16-2013, 12:47 PM   #20
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Thanks Snappy, I think the manual I have is the same one you do. I guess I did not understand the bypassable thing. I will try checking the leads like it says and the part looks to be about $20 so if that is the problem, it will be a cheap fix compared to the $1800 controller. I will post the results when I figure it out.
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:32 PM   #21
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Just treat lightly such that you don't override what could have been the cause for the original controller failure, just sayin'.
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post
Just treat lightly such that you don't override what could have been the cause for the original controller failure, just sayin'.
Good thought. The original controller just quit one day while we were running it on the road between CGs. We wouldn't have noticed but the house a/c went off and it started getting warm inside. I will try to be careful when working on it.
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