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Old 10-09-2013, 08:38 AM   #15
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HD4MARK, if only mine was put on a slide I could have saved me a lot of money. I just got mine out of the shop about 2 weeks ago for the same reason. Fault code 33., Failed temp. Sensor. Cummins/Onan did the work at the cost of $2112.62. The only thing different was the radiator was stopped up and instead of waiting for them to send it out to be repaired I had them put a new one in. Thats the only difference. The labor was $1569.00 . Most of that labor was taking it out and putting it back in. If only they had be it on a slide !!!!! Thanks for listening to my cry. Lol
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Oh that sucks Don. I still have to crawl under to get at the bolts in the back(actually the right side). Easy at the sticks and bricks house with a creeper and air tools. Last April we replaced the "controller" to the tune of $1800 just for the part. DW was very helpful doing that job at a CG with hand tools and crawling on the ground.

It is hard to believe they would not have the slide out for your genny. Saved some money manufacturing the coach that you just made up for.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:16 PM   #16
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Oh that sucks Don. I still have to crawl under to get at the bolts in the back(actually the right side). Easy at the sticks and bricks house with a creeper and air tools. Last April we replaced the "controller" to the tune of $1800 just for the part. DW was very helpful doing that job at a CG with hand tools and crawling on the ground.

It is hard to believe they would not have the slide out for your genny. Saved some money manufacturing the coach that you just made up for.
Mark,
I've coached a few on this "sensor" issue as well as a couple of other members have done the same for folks with the sensor issues. And, you mentioned "It's hard to believe they would not have the slide out for your genny". Well, of the folks I've helped, a very, very small percentage of them have the gen slide. Many coaches that would be classified as "higher end" over our 2004 Itasca Horizon 36GD, don't have a slide out genny.

The "Meridian" model, in our year, one step lower, does not have it. While generator maintenance is not a top priority, it does need to be done on an "every so often" basis and, even simple things like checking the oil etc. are accomplished easier with a slide out.

While it was not a top priority when looking for a motor home this last time, the bonus of having a gen slideout has been outstandingly convenient and, cost savings, numerous times.
Scott
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Old 10-10-2013, 07:43 AM   #17
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While it was not a top priority when looking for a motor home this last time, the bonus of having a gen slideout has been outstandingly convenient and, cost savings, numerous times.
Scott
Scott,
After all the $$ we put into our coach over the last year I told DW you will have to bury me in it

Seriously I do think it would be a deciding factor of we ever look to buy a new MH. We have had the thing apart twice in six months. I can't imagine what we would have spent in labor removing one that was not on a slide. How do you get it out? Engine crane? What a monster PIA.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:19 PM   #18
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Scott,
After all the $$ we put into our coach over the last year I told DW you will have to bury me in it

Seriously I do think it would be a deciding factor of we ever look to buy a new MH. We have had the thing apart twice in six months. I can't imagine what we would have spent in labor removing one that was not on a slide. How do you get it out? Engine crane? What a monster PIA.
Mark,
I certainly know what you mean about "burying" me in it due to the amount of labor and cost we've put into the beast. Now, you ask, "how would you get it out"? Well, I can't remember his user name but, not all that long ago, he and I talked on here about this exact situation and he's one that doe NOT HAVE A SLIDE and, had to replace that sensor, and some other parts.

So, he developed a system by which the coach was lifted to a certain height and, if I recall, a small platform was built on a floor jack. He removed all the fasteners that held it in place, released all the electrical, fuel and other attachment points and with that jack, he lowered it down to a point where it could be rolled out from in front of the coach. It's not all that heavy. But, it's a bit cumbersome. So, good stability is surely needed. Anyway from that point on, he performed surgery on it and it came out just fine, even with new paint on the outside panels. He did a great job. If I can find his link, I'll relay it to you so you can see his predicament.
Scott
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:06 PM   #19
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Mark and Scott, thank you both for responding to my comments. I enjoy communicating with other RV'ers and IRV2. I've not seen another site like this. It seems someone has experienced toe problem and if you post it someone will try to help. Thanks the great part of this RV'ers helping other RV'ers.
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:49 PM   #20
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Mark and Scott, thank you both for responding to my comments. I enjoy communicating with other RV'ers and IRV2. I've not seen another site like this. It seems someone has experienced toe problem and if you post it someone will try to help. Thanks the great part of this RV'ers helping other RV'ers.
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Dr Don,
From my end, you're certainly welcome. I try and help when and where I can and, usually from experience. I've done about 99.9999% of my own work on all my vehicles for decades and decades. I've done way more on this present motor home than I ever thought I would. So, conveying some knowledge and experience that I've gained by doing as much as I've had to do, is easy for me. I enjoy helping. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:45 PM   #21
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Scott, thanks. I may have tried to do this job, removing my generator but I was in a hurry. I still didn't didn't make my Air Force Reunion in Mississippi. I was promised it would be done on a thursday so I could leave on friday got my coach back on the following monday. Anyway, I had a friend who was going to help me, but not having the proper tools and the generator weighting just under 500 lbs. It takes I was told for a professional 5 hours to remove it . If I decide for sure I'm going to keep this coach ( 2003 Fleetwood Discovery , 3 slides 39 feet ) I may fix away to put this on something to remove it easier. SLIDE , some way to lower it.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:57 PM   #22
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I had an onan mechanic remove mine from my providence. We replaced coolant tank, thermostat and waterpump belt. From start to finish, out and back in was about five hours.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:45 AM   #23
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I had an onan mechanic remove mine from my providence. We replaced coolant tank, thermostat and waterpump belt. From start to finish, out and back in was about five hours.
Unfortunately this does not seem to be the norm. We brought our MH in to have repairs done to the flat floor slide room and thought we could just wait for it. After four hours they told us they needed to order a part. OK with that we left it and went home (2 hours away). Three weeks later it was "done". Still has the same problem so we are doing the dance over again in the spring. Sorry off topic. I am happy we could do our own work on the generator. The slide room looked like more than I wanted to try in our driveway.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:28 PM   #24
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Just reading all the posts on the temp sensor problems. I had the same problem and could not get the sensor out with the housing installed. After looking at the problem I decided to chip a small piece of the thermostat housing {or whatever Onan calls it} from around the bolt at the upper left bolt behind the engine cover and water pump. I loosened the bolt and used a small chisel and after tapping lightly a few times a piece chipped out. The piece was just big enough to allow the housing to be pushed down after removing the other two bolts and the housing came right out. I did have the valve cover removed as well as that allowed better access just be careful as there are copper washers under the nuts that hold the cover on. I then drilled out most of the rest of the sensor that was left then used a small metal blade to cut into the remaining metal but be careful not to cut into the threads in the housing. I then chased the threads out,installed the new sensor and easily reinstalled housing and all works great. I think if you had a new housing and just cut slots big enough for the bolt to pass through would be eaiser and you would not have worry about breaking to much of flange away on the old housing. This makes this repair very simple and will allow any future sensor replacements super easy. I hope this helps others with this same problem.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:52 PM   #25
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Is thwre any way to bypass or defeat the senson so that the ecm is satisfied all is working well? Rkl
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:40 AM   #26
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I read somewhere that a guy relocated his sensor by inserting a piece of pipe in the radiator hose and welding or brazing on a nut or something threaded to screw in the sensor. This is from memory so it might not be perfectly accurate but you get the idea.

I would guess if you just connected the wire for the sensor to one and just placed it anywhere that wasn't too warm it would be fooled into reading OK. This defeats it's purpose of course and risks overheating the genny and making for a much larger problem. Might work OK for a fast fix to get it running until the correct repair could be done.

Back when I was working some of the company trucks I drove had generators, mostly Onan but some Kohler and a few Hondas. They were placed on top of the work box outside so to repair them all you had to do was take off the cover. Not the case in our MHs where they are always buried. Even on the slide ours was a challenge to get at the sensor. Cost me some scraped knuckles.
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Old 11-02-2015, 07:32 AM   #27
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WOW, a two year old thread still going.
Anyway, looking at the sensor, talk was to use Teflon tape on the threads. I think that may be a huge mistake as the threads need to complete the electrical circuit to ground and IIRC it would not do so with the tape. It might tear the tape when tightening the sensor and get a ground, but given the difficulty getting to it I would just use pipe dope on it and know it will work. Hope I never get to experience this fun job!
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:19 PM   #28
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Yes, you can take a new sensor put the wire from the old one on it, wrap a piece of wire around the new one and run that wire to a good ground. You can then start the generated to make sure this is the problem. I would not run the generater very long in this configuration as you now would have no over temp protection. If this allows the generater to function properly please read my jet an post for an easy fix.

Have fun, jetman
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