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Old 05-22-2018, 05:14 AM   #29
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I'm glad you are documenting your install. Looking forward to seeing pictures after cameras have been mounted. I'm tempted to purchase it now while on sale.
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:39 AM   #30
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I too am looking forward to the outcome! This would be extremely handy for sure since I have to do like a 10 point turn to park my 40' at home next to my house, heh.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:09 PM   #31
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As I'm actively working on getting my S&B home sold I'm only getting to the installation part time. I just mounted the four cameras yesterday for a trial fitting. It turns out that I had built a standoff (or spacer) for the passenger side camera but I also need one on the drivers side as well. I'm making the additional spacer tonight and I'm typing this between coats of paint!

Rain was forecast for today so I avoided drilling the hole in the roof for the cables. So for now, they're draped along the roof and enter through the toll window while I test things out.

The video cables are certainly long enough, with lots of cable to spare. Since they're pre-terminated I'll just coil them up in the overhead space.

Tomorrow, I'll make final adjustments to the cameras by following the guidelines in the users manual and then secure the cables along the roof using strips of Eternabond.

I looked at the video quality today in daylight and I'd have to say that the video is at the upper limit of exposure in daylight. This washes out some color and detail and results in some video degradation. I'd say that it's a bit of a compromise in achieving the best possible nighttime sensitivity. It's certainly a reasonable compromise to be able to be able to use this system when backing into a campground space at dusk - or worse.

I contacted the vendor to find out the requirements for the SD card. I have an 8GB, 64GB and a 128GB card but I'm having trouble formatting the cards so the controller will see it. The controller offers to format the SD card but it says it can't see one present. Puzzling.

The vendor, Wireless Prime, is a pleasure to talk to and they're interested in how this installation goes. I advised them of the need for camera spacers that are uniquely needed for RV's due to the awnings. They did mention that they might want to keep this in mind for future application development. I gave them a link to this thread so they can follow along.

Here are are a few close up photos that I'm using to study and make the final camera adjustments. All these pictures are raw and no computer adjustments have been made to "straighten" out the fish eye distortion. Also keep in mind that these pictures are taken very close up and aren't representative of the final images when viewed from a few feet away. Try putting your nose right up to your living room TV and you'll see what I mean.

First picture is the front camera. The camera needs to be adjusted downward a bit but it's fine otherwise. Second picture is the passenger side. On the left you can see the coach door is open. On the right you can see some of the dumpster but an awning arm is blocking the rest. I'm adding an additional inch to the spacer to improve this. The third picture is the back. This camera is also pointed too high and will be tilted downward. Otherwise it's fine. The fourth picture is the driver side. This camera does not have its spacer yet and you can see a sun shade support arm blocking the rear view. I will add a spacer to this camera tomorrow.

After adjustments tomorrow I will re-post these pictures with the cameras in their final position.

This weekend I'll be moving to an open parking lot to lay out the calibration tape and perform the final calibration procedures - can't wait!
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:33 AM   #32
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I finally understand the need for calibration tape after viewing the bowl effect from fish-eye lens. This is a neat system.
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:35 PM   #33
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Another day and a little more progress. I permanently mounted the cameras today and ran the camera wiring along the roof up to their point of entry into the cabin. I'm waiting on some black Eternabond to complete the installation and rain was threatening so I decided to drill the hole in the roof tomorrow.
Here are four more pictures of the progress. The first picture is the wiring on the roof where it's secured using a 2" wide strip of Eternabond. It's the first time I've used it and I'm impressed. I see a lot more Eternabond and a lot less Dicor in my future! The second picture simply shows how much wire was left over after routing the cables on a 45' motorhome - no problem. The third picture shows the passenger side camera, mounted on my homemade spacer, underneath the awning. And yes, the awning just clears the camera when it's deployed. The fourth picture is the camera, on its homemade spacer, on the drivers side.
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Old 05-27-2018, 02:56 PM   #34
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Done! I calibrated the cameras this morning. It involves placing a special tape -think shipping tape - around the vehicle and then moving crosshair pointers to predetermined marker points along the special tape. The hardest part was using a tape measure marked with Imperial units (feet/inches) and following the instructions using meters - and I am a metric kind of guy! I had a short drive to an empty parking lot, laid out the calibration tape, and did the calibration in 3.5 hours. It was sometimes hard to see the calibration points because of glint and sun angle. I sometimes resorted to placing an object on the tape marker to make it more visible and I used a small trashcan placed next to the marker to be sure that I was looking at the right point. I could see the tape in the reflection of my coach's paint and that made it somewhat difficult to be sure I was marking the actual tape and not a reflection (It didn't help that there were the parking lot white lines as well). The tape stuck nicely to the asphalt and stayed put unless there was water. I'd definitely do it when it's dry and dawn or dusk might be a better choice for lighting instead of noon. Each camera has 8 calibration points. Stepping through each camera and adjusting the crosshairs for each was a breeze. You'll see boxes in the pictures. These are part of the calibration procedure. The only requirement is that they are 90cm tall which is (close enough to) 36" tall. I put a brick inside each box to keep the wind from blowing them over. When finished with calibration the tape is just pulled up and thrown away. Pity.

The calibration tape was placed right at 8" from the sides of the coach and all the points were visible on the cameras. The darkness next to the coach in the image is shadow. There are adjustments on the Owleye for brightness, contrast and saturation so these might be helpful in reducing the contrast of the shadow. We'll see.

I'll follow up with some additional pictures of some of the image modes. There are selections for the virtual cameras perspective angles. I'll be playing around to see which ones I like. One of the most intriguing one the reversing point-of-view. It can either be in the same orientation as normal but with a biased view of the back side of the coach, or it can be a mirror image view looking backward as if you turned around in your seat. Of course, it automatically shifts its perspective by monitoring the turn signals. Even then, there are several choices of perspective while turning.

On my short drive back, I was pleased with the surround view to keep an eye on surrounding traffic.
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:20 PM   #35
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I messed around with it a bit more and these images are from the parking lot where it's been staying during the installation. The dumpsters should be familiar by now!

The first picture is the screen image when the right turn signal is activated. The second picture is when the left turn signal is activated. The third picture is when I'm in reverse. And, finally the fourth picture is an alternative view while in reverse. I don't know which I like better. There are more screen options that I'll experiment with in the future.
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:47 AM   #36
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Wow. Great product, great job, and great writeup. A few questions. What material did you use to make the camera standoffs, and how are they attached? How much time in total do you think the project took you? Could you post photos of the rear and front cameras so we can see their placement?

Again, WOW.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:05 AM   #37
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Yes, great job. I have a question too - the side cameras, are they have to be in the middle of the coach, or anywhere along the side. I have a full wall slide on the driver side and can't have it in the middle.
Thanks Mike
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:17 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by MRUSA14 View Post
Wow. Great product, great job, and great writeup. A few questions. What material did you use to make the camera standoffs, and how are they attached? How much time in total do you think the project took you? Could you post photos of the rear and front cameras so we can see their placement?

Again, WOW.
I used poplar wood because it's knot free. I cut a 1x4 into four slices about 2" wide. Stacked them using yellow glue. Primed, painted, and cleared them. The wood block was then shaped using my table saw. I attached the spacers using double sided Gorilla tape. I would have used 3M VHB if I could have found it. If the tape fails then the camera is attached by it's cord so it won't be lost.

Total time? Well, that's a hard one. I suppose that every installation will have variables that will greatly affect installation time. I had to make my spacers as well as a customized monitor mount. If I didn't have access to my shop at home then my camera spacers would have been made differently. For me I'd guess that I put in 2-3 hours on planning my installation. 2-3 hours on installing the controllers wiring and fishing it through the A pillar. 2-3 hours on making the spacers (plus paint drying time). 2-3 hours placing the cameras. 2-3 hours testing the system and adjusting the cameras. And finally 3-4 hours calibrating the cameras.
That said, it always takes the longest the first time I do anything. The next time will be no more than half the time.

Below are pictures of the front and back cameras. I took advantage of the marker light in the front camera installation, and ran the camera wire in through the bottom of the light. It didn't make sense to do that in the rear as there wasn't a good way to get the wire back out and onto the roof to run it to the front, so I just kept it tight to the body and onto the roof.
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:32 PM   #39
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Yes, great job. I have a question too - the side cameras, are they have to be in the middle of the coach, or anywhere along the side. I have a full wall slide on the driver side and can't have it in the middle.
Thanks Mike
A close to the middle is probably best but not required. I didn't tape measure mine to be exact. I just paced it off and then worked with the space to select a spot. The requirement is that the camera be able to see the farthest most calibration markers. As long as the camera and its human "calibrator" can put the crosshair on the necessary calibration points you should be good.

If there wasn't another choice you might try putting the camera on the slide and Permabond the wiring onto the roof of the slide while leaving enough slack for the camera wire to travel with the slide. Just a thought.
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:38 PM   #40
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Do you think it would work to place the front camera inside at the top of the windshield looking out?
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:54 PM   #41
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Excellent write up, thanks for taking the time to do that!
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:18 PM   #42
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Do you think it would work to place the front camera inside at the top of the windshield looking out?
If the camera can see the closest calibration tape points then yes. It can be determined early on before committing to the final location. There's plenty of calibration tape to allow for experimentation.
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