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Old 01-22-2015, 01:02 PM   #421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vapor3000 View Post
Frost on the wall is due to lack of air circulation. Put 3 or 4 ceiling fans up high and leave the running. Frost problems go away.
Makes sense. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:18 PM   #422
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Looks like you had that built using SIPs. How did the build cost compair with stick built or a metal building?
Yes John, this is a SIPs construction. Good eye. We are building the house at the same time, also with SIPs, so we didn't really look at any other material for the rv garage. The SIPs are a higher cost material, but you save money and time on the on-site construction. For the house, just the outer walls are SIPs. For the unattached rv garage, the entire structure is SIPs (walls and roof), so it went up in about 5 days. The roof is just 14 separate panels. Our rv garge also has a gym area attached to it, but if you were to build just a simple 30 x 55 the SIPs would prolly be around $40,000 for the panels, not counting the concrete pad, footings and stem wall. Had to rent a crane and forklift for the panels.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:42 AM   #423
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Jeff,

I've kept my eye out on various construction techniques so they caught my eye. You're going to have one well insulated RV barn when done. Your biggest heat loss will end up being the door but a good R11 door will help that.

Anyway, very nice job, can't wait to see finished pictures.
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:48 PM   #424
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Thanks John. Being in central AZ, I'm not too concerned about heat loss, although today it is a crisp 60 degrees! I'm mostly concerned to get my rig out of the sun. The dry wall is up, almost ready to paint the interior, add the doors and stucco the exterior.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:55 AM   #425
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Morton RV 42'Wx52L Garage

Here is the final Morton Building product. The building has been completed. The doors are 14x14. I still need to put in the 6 inch slab. I have not had the final inspection yet. The power company will be pulling the power to the building in a couple of weeks. So far I am very please with the progress. I have to hang two fans above the heaters. Installed in two side rear locations and up near the inside panel are 50 amp/30 amp plugs (You can see them on the side walls in the one picture). I still need to have a water line from the well to the building as well. I plan to have a freeze pump outside and 2 taps inside. A floor drain is also in the plan. The final grading and compaction of the road has also not yet been done.
It has been quite the process from removing trees and stumps to having a building.
Thanks for looking!
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:06 AM   #426
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Couple More

Here are a few more pictures that show the drive to the building. Where the road to the buildings was originally all trees.
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Old 01-24-2015, 01:11 PM   #427
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A though for you I put a motion detector light inside the building targeted to the MH door so when I open the door at night there is light inside without having to get out and turn something on to have light when backing into the dark hole.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:17 PM   #428
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The photo's look like there are power door openers on the ceiling so I would presume lights come on when the door opens. I don't try to put my RV inside if it is dark - my vision and distance judgement are not once they once were.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:27 PM   #429
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Originally Posted by RTinVa View Post
Here is the final Morton Building product. The building has been completed. The doors are 14x14. I still need to put in the 6 inch slab. I have not had the final inspection yet. The power company will be pulling the power to the building in a couple of weeks. So far I am very please with the progress. I have to hang two fans above the heaters. Installed in two side rear locations and up near the inside panel are 50 amp/30 amp plugs (You can see them on the side walls in the one picture). I still need to have a water line from the well to the building as well. I plan to have a freeze pump outside and 2 taps inside. A floor drain is also in the plan. The final grading and compaction of the road has also not yet been done.
It has been quite the process from removing trees and stumps to having a building.
Thanks for looking!
RTinVA,
I'm certainly not the smartest in building construction and, of course, know no rules and regs when it pertains to sequence of events on what's done first to build a building. But, in all I've ever seen growing up in So Cal and, now residing here in Lake Havasu AZ, it's primarily done this way:
1. A footing is dug
2. Water, electrical and drains are pre-plumbed
3. Then the slab is poured
4. Then the framing is done
5. The roof framing/truss's are installed
6. The outside pre-treatment, i.e. wafer board, Tyvek and other treatments prior to the final coating of many styles, i.e. stucco, wood siding, plastic siding, etc.
7. The wiring, plumbing etc. are then routed through all the studs etc. to the points where the final finished products (wall plates, sinks with fawcets, light switch boxes, ceiling pre-wire etc.
8. Insulation is installed
9. Drywall is installed and finished off.
10. Doors are installed
11. At some point, the roof is roofed with the desired materials.

Now, I'm only stating all this because, based on what you've stated in and around your pictures, much of this is going to be done AFTER the building is up. I mean, pouring a concrete slab AFTER a building is up just seems to be out of sequence to me. As does installing any of the utilities like plumbing and electrical etc.

But, as stated, I'm no builder and, not into construction. I'm just curious as to your sequence of events. By the way, even though I installed my pictures of our new home and attached RV garage here in Lake Havasu, I surely envy you and your nice, extra large building and shop. That's going to be some place when it's all said and done. Good luck.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:22 PM   #430
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Scott, the contractor I used, to build mine, also poured the floor after the building was built, (mine is pole-barn style construction). The way he did it actually increases the strength of the structure, which I would discuss, but don't want to stray off-topic.

My friend down the street, just finished up a 40'x42', in which the floor was poured towards the end. His building is conventional footers, 4 courses of block, and stick-built. I don't think it's that uncommon, as it does help protect it from sub-contractor damage during the majority of the build.



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Old 01-24-2015, 08:28 PM   #431
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pouring a concrete slab AFTER a building is up just seems to be out of sequence to me. As does installing any of the utilities like plumbing and electrical etc.
When you play by Mother Natures rules it turns out at times she can be mean and inflexible, it's usually her way or not at all.
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Old 01-25-2015, 05:10 AM   #432
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Most pole barn style garages receive the concrete floor after the pole barn is up, if at all. I even had one home built that the basement floor was not poured until the entire home was framed.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:08 AM   #433
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Concrete before or after build

Quote:
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When you play by Mother Natures rules it turns out at times she can be mean and inflexible, it's usually her way or not at all.
You are correct regarding mother nature. There is 8 yards of cement in footings around the building currently. Weather has still not favored the final grade or cement work. As much as I hate to wait I will wait until the best conditions to do the prep work and final grade.

I want to thank you for the suggestion of a motion light on the ceiling lights. Although the side floods are on motion for the approach I never considered putting the ceiling lights on motion. The garage door openers are commercial and do not have a light on them as normally found on residential openers. This should be an easy fix. Thank you again for the mention of this. I had never given it a thought. Always learning something new here.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:27 AM   #434
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as it does help protect it from sub-contractor damage during the majority of the build.

[/QUOTE]

After experiencing the damage to the gravel pad and new drive during the construction of the building I would really hate to see damage to the concrete flooring during the build.

I have under my building a minimum of 8 inches of number 3s and 6 inches of 21s. I had a plumbing company come out and they indicated no difficulty with doing the install of water lines or drain after the build. I would also like to get a feel for the inside before I decide where I would like the tank less water heater. When the coach is brought inside it will leave me 12 feet behind for a shop across the back. There is also 6 feet from the outside edge of each large door to the outside corners of the building so I might decide to put the work bench on the side. First I have to decide which side I prefer to park the coach. I am guessing at this point backing it in on the right side as you are looking at the front of the building.

I am finding having the building up first it is much easier to make decisions on how you are going to best use the space while operating inside the building.
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