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Old 04-24-2016, 04:22 AM   #673
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Thanks sims5---Now I hope I can get it looking as good on the inside as it does outside.
Lots of work to be done yet and many questions. Trying to be proactive and try not to overlook anything that should be done while we are completing the build.

do you remember how your concrete was done? Is it a 6 in pour and did you reinforce with any steel?

FYI: The 6 inch slab on my building was done with wire mesh. I also had a moisture barrier installed before the pour. I had a moisture issue that caused condensation on the inside ceiling and walls during cooler months. I had enough condensation during before the cement that it was dripping from the metal ceiling. It reached a point that the breaker for the doors would trip and I would have to manually open and close the 14x14 doors until I was able to dry out the moisture by opening the building windows and doors on a breezy day. It appears very dry inside since the cement was poured. We will see how it does next winter but I expect it will have resolved this issue considerably. I still need to insulate the ceiling as well before next winter. This should also help as well.

A suggestion made to me from another member was regarding ceiling lights. It was recommended I consider installing motion sensors inside the RV garage. This prevents you from having to back into a "black hole" if it is during the night. Just thought I would mention it. I still need to do this. I have experienced this minor issue which requires someone to exit the coach and walk through the dark building to turn on the lights before backing in. I do however have motion floods on the outside. Be sure to check the direction of these so they do not "blind" you when trying to navigate the door at night.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:28 AM   #674
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A lot will depend upon who provides the concrete and the amount of cement they put in the concrete plus any additives. There may be some companies that shade the amount of cement to just make the 28 day strength. The good companies add a bit extra so the 7 day strength is at or better than the 28 day strength.
When my slab was poured the installer who has 30 years experience did add something to the cement before the pour. I can tell you it was a mere hours when the forms were removed and he said I could drive on it within a week. Not being even a cement rookie I have read many recommendations for a 28 day wait. For this reason I chose to wait. Not at all familiar with the testing of cement for strength. I just hope my slab serves me well for many years to come. They are not cheap!
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:22 AM   #675
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Thanks sims5---Now I hope I can get it looking as good on the inside as it does outside.

Lots of work to be done yet and many questions. Trying to be proactive and try not to overlook anything that should be done while we are completing the build.



do you remember how your concrete was done? Is it a 6 in pour and did you reinforce with any steel?


6" thick with wire. Wire was mainly for my heat tubes to be tied too. The biggest thing is the base under the concrete.

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Old 04-24-2016, 08:30 AM   #676
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A suggestion made to me from another member was regarding ceiling lights. It was recommended I consider installing motion sensors inside the RV garage. This prevents you from having to back into a "black hole" if it is during the night. Just thought I would mention it. I still need to do this. I have experienced this minor issue which requires someone to exit the coach and walk through the dark building to turn on the lights before backing in. I do however have motion floods on the outside. Be sure to check the direction of these so they do not "blind" you when trying to navigate the door at night.
Consider adding Z-Wave system to your garage and house. Nice in that you can remotely control lights in both places from anywhere in the world.

In addition everyone should always run at least a 1 1/4", 1 1/2" or even 2" conduit from their house to a remote garage. The reason for the larger conduit is to make pulling much easier and don't forget to always leave a pull rope so you never have to fish one again. This way you can pull low voltage circuits such as phones and ethernet cables and even coax cables to run dish, direct or cable between them. Since it's for low voltage only you don't have to do really deep unless you need to get below the frost line.

Wireless is great but when running between buildings with some distance between them hardwire is king. This way you can connect a remote access point in the garage from your wireless router in the house and have solid Internet in the garage.
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:49 AM   #677
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I have a motion sensor that turns on three of the ceiling lights. Very helpful
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:12 AM   #678
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When my slab was poured the installer who has 30 years experience did add something to the cement before the pour. I can tell you it was a mere hours when the forms were removed and he said I could drive on it within a week. Not being even a cement rookie I have read many recommendations for a 28 day wait. For this reason I chose to wait. Not at all familiar with the testing of cement for strength. I just hope my slab serves me well for many years to come. They are not cheap!
I consulted with a city that has a majority of concrete streets. They lay 6" for residential streets and 8" for collector and arterial roadways.

They try to have 8" under any bus route but that is problematic. It seemed like the bus routes were changed about every 6 months to adjust for ridership. Many of the bus routes were on 6" concrete. They opened the roadway sooner than 28 days.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:37 AM   #679
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I consulted with a city that has a majority of concrete streets. They lay 6" for residential streets and 8" for collector and arterial roadways.

They try to have 8" under any bus route but that is problematic. It seemed like the bus routes were changed about every 6 months to adjust for ridership. Many of the bus routes were on 6" concrete. They opened the roadway sooner than 28 days.
Parked the coach on my slab yesterday. No issues. Guess I waited long enough. Thanks for the insight on this subject as I am sure many other members will find this information valuable.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:38 AM   #680
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I have a motion sensor that turns on three of the ceiling lights. Very helpful
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Old 04-25-2016, 11:40 AM   #681
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Parked the coach on my slab yesterday. No issues. Guess I waited long enough. Thanks for the insight on this subject as I am sure many other members will find this information valuable.

Well... Let's see it! We are waiting in suspense for the pictures!
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:34 PM   #682
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Well... Let's see it! We are waiting in suspense for the pictures!
https://fyu.se/v/whg4605ijs

Try this and let me know if you are able to view. If not I will take pictures tomorrow and post.

Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:27 PM   #683
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Just finished our new house with built in RV garage.





The RV bay is 55' long and 16' wide with 16' ceilings with 50 amp, water and sewer. The three car garage and RV bay are 2100 square feet and has its own 5 ton AC & furnace seperate from the house system. The concrete space to the right of the garage is a guest RV spot with full hook ups.

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Old 04-30-2016, 03:48 PM   #684
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Wow! Lots of nice RV homes!

Here is ours. Notice she's sitting outside....waiting patiently on the overhead door people to arrive this week....because the door opening is 3" too low!

It wasn't a surprise...thank goodness...we knew it when we brought her home. Even after considering the cost to raise the opening 9 inches, we couldn't pass up the deal.

She'll be snug as a bug in a rug next week.

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Old 04-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #685
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It's good to hear you knew about it before trying to put it inside .
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:28 AM   #686
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I've run into many "RV" garages which have low doors. Never understood what the builder was thinking. At least when they have gable ends some can be raised as is being done on this one.
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