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Old 12-17-2011, 01:14 AM   #85
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sdennis, where are you building?...I see you stated close to a 4' frost line...AK?

18" here in MO for our frost line requirements
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:23 AM   #86
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My garage is similar to yours with features...unfortunately I didn't make my roof or doors high enough to get my new to me RV inside. I thought at time of build 10' door would be more than ample. I work in mine with metal fab, restorations, race car prep and paint work, so parking/storage isn't always an option. I 'm opting to make a carport on the north side of the existing garage. If I can keep a roof over it's head and the majority of the sun off it...I'd be a happy camper!
My need os to keep the freezing temps off and out of mine. Hate winterizing, seems like as soon as I do we decide it's time for a trip. My hope is we keep it in the garage maybe drain the water until we are far enough south to not worry about temps then fill up. Dump again before we return.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:25 AM   #87
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sdennis, where are you building?...I see you stated close to a 4' frost line...AK?

18" here in MO for our frost line requirements
Building in Ohio.

I work in AK (Prudhoe Bay) but live in Ohio. I find the Ohio summers to be too hot and humid so I stay in AK (Anchorage) during the summer months. I have been keeping the MH in AK during the summer months and bringing it home for the winter months. I think its home to stay this time. The ALCAN is just too rough for repeated trips.

To really enjoy AK in the summer you need an RV. The distance from town to town is 4 to 8 hours and during tourist (locals refer to it as terrorist season) season hotel are in the $300.00 range. Anchorage to Homer 5 hrs, anchorage to Valdez 8 hrs, Anchorage to Fairbanks 6 hrs, etc.. no day trips without an RV.

I have a class C I have been thinking of selling, I may take it back to AK with me but the Class A has made its last ALCAN trip.

Our frost line here in southern Ohio is 32" went 48" just to be safe.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #88
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Nice looking coach, but I don't see a NKK number in the upper corner. Do you belong to the Newmar Kountry Klub ?
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:16 PM   #89
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I've been thinking about building a garage also. So, how do the frame-built garages compare to a steel building garage, cost-wise?
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:55 PM   #90
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Never be ashamed to only build what you can afford. This started with a 6" slab. 6x6 posts and 6x 8 beams. 30 amp service, water and dump near. My shop (30x50) is right next to it so have access to air from there.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:48 PM   #91
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that might be all you could afford,but it looks real nice. do you plan to add side walls to it in the future?
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:02 PM   #92
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80x60 with 18x34 on rear. Hydronic heated floor, A/C. Lots of storage above office, bath, and 16x30 woodworking room. 8" thick stick built 16' eaves, scissor trusses, 20' at interior peak.
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:21 PM   #93
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80x60 with 18x34 on rear. Hydronic heated floor, A/C. Lots of storage above office, bath, and 16x30 woodworking room. 8" thick stick built 16' eaves, scissor trusses, 20' at interior peak.
I think I can squeeze my rig there
be right over
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:46 AM   #94
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Oh, now that's just showing off.

Good for you!
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:21 AM   #95
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80x60 with 18x34 on rear. Hydronic heated floor, A/C. Lots of storage above office, bath, and 16x30 woodworking room. 8" thick stick built 16' eaves, scissor trusses, 20' at interior peak.
Beautiful, My woodworking shop is 26'x32' just added 20' of concrete to it but now the motorhomes on it. Thinking of your space, maybe I'll go up and forget my furniture making. 52'x26' would work. Far from your beautiful shop.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:42 PM   #96
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Now that's one nice garage.

I just finished the pad for mine 49' x 52' and that was every last inch I could squeeze out of the DW. Going to show this to her, maybe she will calm down about my new garage plans.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:11 PM   #97
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I would highly recommend putting a densifier and a top sealer that needs to be buffed in. Same as finish at Lowes, Sams, Hd.
I did and love it. Sweeps clean, spills wipe up, even oil, and no tire marks as you will get with a Cure and Seal product. Hopefully your flat work contractor did not use this, otherwise you will be parking on pieces of plywood because the chemicals in Cure and Seal draws carbon from the tires, leaving permanent marks on the floor.
Good luck with the project.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:23 PM   #98
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I am going with an epoxy finish with colored chips to match the rest of the garage. I did have him seal the floor since we won't be building the garage until this spring. The guys who do the epoxy acid wash the floor so that should remove the sealer and giving them a nice clean base to apply the epoxy.
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