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Old 07-08-2015, 08:51 PM   #29
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Great job. I just finished repainting one of my basement doors. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought that the clear coat had to be applied within 24 hours of the basecoat or you have to sand again.

Any way, looks really nice. Will continue to follow this thread for all your insights.
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:36 AM   #30
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Great job. I just finished repainting one of my basement doors. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought that the clear coat had to be applied within 24 hours of the basecoat or you have to sand again.

Any way, looks really nice. Will continue to follow this thread for all your insights.
In some cases yes. If you are using paints that have the same base structure there is a time window in which they will bond chemically. After that you need to sand or scuff to get a mechanical bond. In this case I am using different types of paint so I have to scuff between them. Not hard to do and it gives me an opportunity to knock down bumps or ridges. When I am repairing body panels with Epoxy and fiberglass I gave to add coats while the first is tacky to get the bond. When I am spraying the clear I have to get the second and third coats down within 5 to 15 minutes after it has set but while it is tacky so they bong. Hope that helps.

PS please keep in mind that I am just bumbling along here trying to make an improvement on the cheap. Nothing I say is gospel, its all off of the cans or from U-Tube university so it could all fall off tomorrow! Take it as an experiment. I think it will stay though.
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Old 07-09-2015, 08:10 AM   #31
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Thanks, that explains it. I'm always willing to learn.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:57 AM   #32
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I used a product called Git Rot. It is an epoxy that works well if the wood has dried out.

X2 on the Git-Rot. Used it in the past to repair rotted stringers on a large boat. It worked wonderfully.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:42 PM   #33
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Hi
It is, for all practical purposes finished. I am satisfied with the results because they did what I wanted. There are several things that might be done differently. When I started this I only wanted to make the damaged places better than they were. I used the Ace hardware paint because they could match the old color and it was cheap. Clear coating was an option only. I just wanted 20" 60mph perfect!
As the job progressed the paint looked nice and I kept going all of the way around. The I decided it really needed a clear coat, partly to help keep it on and partly because it really made the color and shine nicer!

Some of the RV with the color only.





Masked and ready to shoot clear. You can see the foam that I used to repair the rotted out walls.





Here are some finished sections. 3 clear coats min. Nice shine!










Here is an important item for shooting enamel paint in S FL. It is a decent sized water trap and it is located near the business end of the hose. I used to keep one attached to the compressor end and I had a terrible water problem. It has to be far enough so that the air cools before it gets there.



Right on the hose end there is a filter and a pressure adjuster. It has to be right up against the gin connection to be accurate.



Here is the mix I used. The Iced coffee in the back goes into me first. Then I mix 4 parts clear with 2 parts Acetone and a 10th of a cap of Japan Dryer. Folks up north can skip the dryer. Acetone is an odd thinner but Rustoleum specifies it. many people swear by mineral spirits instead. I tried the mineral spirits and I have one hatch that I have to sand and repaint later on in the week.



Here are the bumper and some odds and ends I also cleared. Did not spend much time on the bumper. I have been looking for a used one to replace it so not important.





So there are the results. I think it will be fine. I never asked for perfect and now I am seeing all of the parts that are not perfect! One sick puppy here I will tell you!. Here are the things I will do differently next time.

I used the alkyd enamel (water based) only because it was the only inexpensive paint that could be easily and locally color matched. Then I went and painted the whole bottom anyway. Go figure. I could have chosen a color from the Rustoleum Automobile paint colors in the first place. $25 a can instead of $16 but is sprays better and I could have run 2 coats of that and 3 of clear one after the other and not had to sand between or wait for drying and then re-mask again. The alkyd is hard to sand and can leave visible marks from sanding. It takes a week to dry and is trickier to spray.

If I used the alkyd again I would have done two coats even though one looks fine and seems thick. I always seem to hit the only thin spot when scuffing the paint for clear coating.

There you go! My cheap paint job. Got a nice tan, the RV looks good and I learned a lot.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:09 PM   #34
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Great looking job! I admire your resourcefulness. I do have a couple of questions for you as I need to repair some peeling clearcoat on the rear of my coach. Where did you purchase the Rustoleum clearcoat? Also, where did you find the Japan Dryer product? I'm not familiar with it at all, but from your description, I may need it here in Memphis due to the heat and high humidity we have. Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:14 AM   #35
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Great looking job! I admire your resourcefulness. I do have a couple of questions for you as I need to repair some peeling clearcoat on the rear of my coach. Where did you purchase the Rustoleum clearcoat? Also, where did you find the Japan Dryer product? I'm not familiar with it at all, but from your description, I may need it here in Memphis due to the heat and high humidity we have. Thanks!
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Hi Glad to answer any questions. Peeling was one of the things that made me go all of the way around the coach. Mine had been ignored for too long and the color coat was too far gone to reuse. It would have been great if I could have sanded and cleared. The Rustoleum Auto clear came from Amazon and another supplier. The Japan Dryer cane from Amazon also. They also make a metallic clear so be careful. I only used about half of the suggested amount because I wanted to give it time to level out and I feared that the heat might make it work too fast.
I looked at it this morning and the job actually looks great. I am pleased!
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:22 AM   #36
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One thing I did forget to mention: I did use a primer. I used ACE,s red primer in a rattle can. It sprays a fan shaped pattern like a real gun and it sprays fast so ti works well. If I use Rustoleum color I would use their primer so that I wouldn't have to wait overnight for it to dry. This would mean 1 coat primer 2 color and 3 clear all 15 minutes or less apart. It would mean just going around and around changing paints and working quickly and be done in a morning rather than 2 weeks.
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:25 AM   #37
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Looks good. Cleaned that baby right up.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:06 PM   #38
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Thanks for a great description. I learned a lot. Also thanks for that tip about putting the filter/water trap/pressure adjuster near the gun connection instead of the compressor.

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Old 08-02-2015, 01:27 PM   #39
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It is as finished as it will be for a while. Just have a few minutes to send some pics. We are leaving for the Shenandoah Natl Park tomorrow. Then we want to go see all of our friends in S. Jersey,walk the boardwalk and ride the tram car in Wildwood. Then on to catch some waves around Waves and Salvo on the outer banks.
After the paint was good and dry I cleaned off the upper section and did the ZEP High traffic polish application. Next year I might clear coat. Then I decided to add the RV nams so I had to take the Zep off in 2 small areas and apply the lettering. I re-zepped then. Here are some finished pics.










The pics aren't the best because the cloud



made it darker but still. I am pleased.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:55 PM   #40
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It turned out great Kahoona ! I hope mine will turn out as nice as yours did.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:21 PM   #41
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Looks very nice.

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Old 08-02-2015, 04:57 PM   #42
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looks very good thanks
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