I investigated clear coats and the possible problem interactions between water based and solvent based. Some work together and some don't. Transparently though it is common practice to cover one with the other but research is needed because some combinations don't work. In this case the paint has to be fully dry or the moisture be trapped ruining the clear and preventing full curing of the Alklyd. I waited a week for the first areas and am waiting for the rest of it to dry fully before finishing the clear.
The Clear:
I wanted to avoid using a 2 part. In reality it would have worked just fine but that is hindsight. I checked up on one part clears and found an entire brotherhood of folks that spray Rustoleum when restoring cars and love it. Rustoleum has an automotive grade clear and it is compatible!
The problems:
Spraying solvent enamel in 90f and 80% humidity is not so good. Sometimes it cures so slowly it never dries. It can also bloom or turn white right after drying. Rattle cans sprayed at 90f tend to produce tiny grains of paint that dry before hitting the surface and stick like hard dust to paint job.
The bloom is caused when the spray chills from solvent evaporation in the heat and attracts water from the humidity. It becomes damp and turns a creamy color after it is sprayed which never goes away. If the slow drying is present you might have to wait a month to sand it off. Rustoleum is thinned with Acetone which evaporates faster and chills more. You can use mineral spirits but they can dry too slow.
The answer:
I looked at the charts on the Weatherunderground and found a sweet spot most days at about 10:00 where the rising heat reduces the humidity but is cool enough to spray still. That is below 90f and 70%. I use an HVLP air gun set at 30 lbs with the paint volume knob 1 1/2 turns out. I overlap each stroke 50%. I thin with 50% Acetone and add a 10th of a capfull of Japan Dryer to each pint. It is an old FL Keys trick. Be careful. Too much is bad. Recoat in 5 minutes, dry to the touch in 15 min or less. Rain won't hurt it after that. I do three or four lite coats using just enough to level itself. Each coat is heavier. It is easy paint to shoot. It is a very forgiving paint mix. You Yankies could omit the Japan Dryer but I love not having to worry about the never dries problem if it rains and dust and leaves won't stick to it after 15 minutes.
Here is the passenger side with the color coat on. All of the caulking and patching was done first. I used a paste finish filler to fill all of the tiny pits and things. I am only doing the Plum below the line for now.
A section of the front bumper after clear coating. This bit convinced me to do the rest.
Here is the front curb side after clear. It is hard to see it because of reflection and shadows but it looks great. There is one run though.
Here is the front of the wheel arch curb side. You can see where I could have filled a pit on the bumper but hey! The surf sticker says "Too old To fat Don't care"
Closer shot of the road side showing the louvered jenny hatch. It has to dry several more days before clear. You can see where it rained and washed roof crud down.
Yard sale compressor. Cost %30 then another $20 in parts to make it right.
Garden cart and work surface. I pile the days materials in it, push it out to the RV and then back to the garage if it rains.
Here is the back. This has not been cleared yet. The color coat came out well though! For comparison there is a finished wheel arch that has been cleared.
I'll add some finished pics as I go.
Have fun!
. I am on a fixed (broken) income and don't have the thousands it would cost to have these repairs done. 
The fact that YOU are happy with your results is all that matters. 
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