Power converter problems?

[tbonethemb]

I am new to the rv scene. I am the proud owner of a 1973 Winnebago Brave. I have been restoring this relic for some time and I have a problem with the electrics. I have an Onan generator that works great. Everything works fine. When I turn off the generator, I have no auxilary battery power to power the lights, shower, toilet. With the generator running, all of these symptoms work fine. After a period of time (one hour to two hours) the auxilary battery power is up and running. I have tried to track the wiring thinking I may have a short somewhere. Very mysterious Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. I am thinking the power converter is acting up.
Thanx
tbonethemb

[Retired and Happy]

Have you checked the voltage at the battery with the generator running and with it shut off? Immediately after shutoff and later when things are working? Do you have a battery isolator switch/relay that may not be engaging fully? Is this a Magnatek/Parallax converter? Are any of the wire around the battery getting hot? Any seem to have excessive corrosion?

[wa8yxm]

Let me see if I get this straight:

You enter the rig. NO 12 volt power
You fire up the Genny (I assume the chassis battery fires it up) and 12 volt power in 60 seconds or less (When the ATS TSes)

After a couple of hours you can shut down Genny and you still have 12 volt.

QUESTION: What converter do you have (This is actually a related issue, not the main issue). Also what battery control system?

Sounds to me like a bad battery.. The battery will take a charge but not hold it long and basically goes dead overnight.

Option 2, Depends on the answers to the questions above.


NOTE: Make sure battery is actually CONNECTED, many rigs have an "OFF" switch for the batteries.

[tbonethemb]

thanx for getting back to me,

Let me be a little more clear.
I enter the rv and have full auxiliary power off auxiliary battery.
I fire up the generator and all the systems are then running off the generator.
I turn off the generator and no auxiliary power.
I wait for one to two hours and usually the auxiliary power is back in business.
Puzzling.
Also, when the auxiliary power is not working, I can switch over to 110 volt and when I disconnect the 110 volt supply (and hear the clicking in the power converter panel) suddenly, the auxiliary power is working fine again. Power converter.
Like I said, I am new to the rv scene and sure do welcome you seasoned veterans suggestions and comments.
I have not removed the panel to the converter yet.
I can see you have to be handy to work with these units.
thanx
tbonethemb

[tbonethemb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retired and Happy Have you checked the voltage at the battery with the generator running and with it shut off? Immediately after shutoff and later when things are working? Do you have a battery isolator switch/relay that may not be engaging fully? Is this a Magnatek/Parallax converter? Are any of the wire around the battery getting hot? Any seem to have excessive corrosion?

Hey retired and happy,
I just checked the auxiliary battery when nothing is working and it says 12.4 volts. When I start the generator it reads 12.9. Would this be meaning that the 12 volt battery is defective?
thanx
tbone

[RJay]

When you disconnect from shore power do you also lose your DC power?

[tbonethemb]

Hey RJay,
The answer is sometimes. I am thinking this is a battery problem. Sometimes I have dc power and sometimes I don't. Easiest thing to do is replace the battery. The current ausiliary battery is 8 years old so pretty old.
thanx,
tbone

[RJay]

Before you replace the batteries take a hard look at the battery post connections. Check for tightness and look for a dark or black color on the connection surface. I'm not saying you don't need new batteries but it would be nice to identify the problem before you bought them.

[tbonethemb]

Hey Rjay,
What would a dark or black color on the battery post signify?
thanx
tbone

[wa8yxm]

YOu said you think it might be a converter problem..

Make and model of converter please

The Magnatek 6300 (if that is what you have) is also the fuse/breaker box.. IF fuse and breakers are in one sectioned box.. Check it's cover for make and model.

Also, the 6300 is two units in one box.. Plus a relay On "Battery" power the relay is in the normally closed position, connecting the battery to .. EVERYTHING.

In the Shore/Generator power present condition, the relay pulls in and battery power goes ONLY to selected loads (Radio for example) The battery is also connected to a very small, very "Dumb" single stage slow charger.

The 45 amps part of a 6345 is the dc power suppy (Converter) which powers lights and such.

IF that section of the converter is toast.. What you see is what you would see.

The solution is to upgrade and bypass.. instructions on the best converter web site.

[RJay]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonethemb Hey Rjay, What would a dark or black color on the battery post signify? thanx tbone

It would look like it may have been spray painted black. It's a very hard oxide and acts as an insulator preventing or inhibiting the flow of current from the battery.

[hamguy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonethemb Hey Rjay, What would a dark or black color on the battery post signify? thanx tbone

Is it a new battery?

[wa8yxm]

You said you hear a "Clicking" from the power panel.....

Earlier I mentioned the Magnatek 6300 This unit is both a charger and converter (TWO EXASPERATE circuits in one box)

When on shore power the Converter section powers lights, water pump etc, the charger section SLOWLY charges, then overcharges, the battery.

When you unplug a relay closes, and connects the battery to everything.

Sounds like a bad relay

And.. If that is what you have (Magnetek or equivalent) I suggest an upgrade to a modern 3-stage.

[RJay]

tbonethemb,
Does your coach have a BIRD (Bi-Directional Relay Delay) in the electrical compartment? Or do you see any relays in there?