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Old 11-08-2009, 10:02 AM   #29
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I agree with bldrbob above. I will not put our motorhome in some of the positions and situations mentioned in the above posts on this subject. Too many places to park without doing that. I just move on to another site.

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Old 11-08-2009, 10:12 AM   #30
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In my opinion the problem arises in the potential shift of the MH as the rear tires leave the ground. I have seen this happen and the lateral torque placed on the jacks can be severe. Might not happen every time but I don't want to chance it on my rig.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:26 AM   #31
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2007 Simba windshield came loose...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sage View Post
There used to be problems raising one end into the air when there were three point jacks. They could twist the frame enough to pop the front windshield out of place. Most four point levelers have equalizing circuits that keep the front even and do not twist the frame so it is not much of a problem any more. The main problem is with the rear wheels. The emergency brake is on the drive shaft. If you lift the rear wheels off the ground then you effectively are in neutral. I would worry about rolling forward or backward - especially if it is windy. I believe that you also have a problem if only one rear wheel is on the ground because the differential will allow the other wheel to turn freely. My policy is to always put the rear wheels on boards so that they are never in the air. I then put blocks under the jacks so that they have enough lift height and I block the front wheels just to be safe. Most of the time I do the same thing (in reverse) with the front wheels too.
You are correct about the three point system. We have a 2007 Safari Simba 36PBQ which We bought with 14,000 miles on it. We have had it less than a month. We have only parked on a level spot in the campground on three occasions, but sure enough, my windshield came loose enough that I can stick my finger through the upper portion where there is a gap. The MH is in storage while waiting for a new windshield. The present glass has stress cracks and cannot be reset. I have ordered the kit to fix the frame problem that was on a recall before Monaco went bankrupt. Also ordered are Koni Shocks and Steer Safe. I am wondering if I need some type of a stabilizer on the rear. Please tell me what I should put on the rear. The coach seems to have way too much side to side sway.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:40 PM   #32
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A three ponit system put LESS stress on the frame than a 4 point system. Bring a three legged stool outside and sit on it. No matter how uneven the ground the weight on each leg remains the same. Now do the same with a four legged stool and one leg will always be light thus stressing the structure. A good four point system will compesate so that you don't torque the frame. If the windshild has a problem it is because the front wheels were hard on the ground when you tried to level the coach side to side thus torquing the frame and stressing the front cap. If you had taken some of the weight off the front axle with the front jack you would have been OK.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:02 PM   #33
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Could the rear trailing arms be cracked or broken?

There was a recall involving the trailing arms on all Simba's. From the notes that the former owner left, the frame problem was never corrected. Having read so much about it on different sections of this forum, I have ordered the work to be done no matter how the trailing arms look. I am led to believe that it is just a matter of time. One post said that they are known to crack between 13,000 miles and 28,000 miles. I am at 14,000. It is difficult to see the crack without a very close inspection on a rack. The cracks are hidden by a U bolt according to the info given by other owners. I wonder if this problem contributes to the side to side sway/rocking? I am also replacing the OEM shocks with Koni shocks and adding Steer Safe on the front. Many reviews mention those two items to be essential with this Roadmaster Chassis. I am somewhat reluctant to drive the MH from the storage lot to the glass installers, even though it is less than a mile. If the windshield were to actually come loose and fall there is a good chance that it would take out
one or both mirrors and also end up under the coach destroying whatever. Because I can stick a finger through the opening between the upper edge of the glass and the cap, I have concluded that it is slipping downward and there is not much I can do about it. I had thought about taping the windshield to the body with strong tape for the trip to the glass people, but I am worried that the tape, when removed, would take some paint with it. I'll probably ask the glass company to remove the windshield where it is, before the drive to them. I sure didn't expect something like this to happen in the first month of ownership!
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
The "balance tube" will have no effect unless the jacks are a few inches short of full extension.
What is the "balance tube" ?????

As for popping windshields out when leveling a coach, I know that is far more common than it should be. That doesn't change the fact that the mfg'ers of those coaches should be held liable for their faulty engineering, poor design and sloppy build quality. Such problems should be a very rare or never occurance.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:32 PM   #35
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What the heck is the air dump?

Our MH has a switch marked, "air dump." I have read the manual cover to cover and there is no mention of the air dump. I assume that it allows the coach to settle down by allowing the escape of air, but I am not sure. Does the engine have to be running to use it? Do I just click it or do I have to hold it down? How do I tell if it is working? This our first diesel pusher so it is all new to us. I would sure appreciate help.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:42 PM   #36
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Proper way to level?

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A three ponit system put LESS stress on the frame than a 4 point system. Bring a three legged stool outside and sit on it. No matter how uneven the ground the weight on each leg remains the same. Now do the same with a four legged stool and one leg will always be light thus stressing the structure. A good four point system will compesate so that you don't torque the frame. If the windshild has a problem it is because the front wheels were hard on the ground when you tried to level the coach side to side thus torquing the frame and stressing the front cap. If you had taken some of the weight off the front axle with the front jack you would have been OK.
I have the automatic leveling system. Should I start with a manual lowering of the front jack and then switch to auto?
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:54 PM   #37
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It makes no difference wether the engine is running or not. If the engine is off, turn your key to the left, turn on your level system, hit DUMP and the coach will settle to the bottom of the suspension travel. You then can adjust your levelers so that the yellow level lights are all out. By dumping the air, it keeps the coach closer to the ground when level. When it's time to leave just turn on the key and hit STORE and presto, when all the red lights go off you are good to go !
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
switch marked, "air dump."
Some coaches require/recommend you to dump the air suspension before using the leveling jacks. As indicated above, this puts the coach lower to the ground requiring less jack extension to get level. On my coach, starting the leveling process automatically dumps the air bags. It is very obvious when they dump, with a great his of air and the coach body drops several inches. Normally the engine does not have to be running, but the key probably has to be "on."

I have HWH jacks on a 2002 Spartan chassis. Although my system will automatically dump before leveling, when using my jack pads, I manually dump the air before putting the jack pads in place because the chassis "creeps" 4-6 inches forward as the suspension dumps. Dumping the air first makes it much easier to get the jack pads in the right position for the jack feet when they come down.
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:16 PM   #39
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Thanks...

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Thanks for the help; now I understand what it is for.
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:16 PM   #40
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I have a 2004 Pace Arrow with Power Gear jacks. They say under no circumstances should you ever lift the wheels off the ground with the jacks. The first time I ever used my jacks I put a (small) block under the rear jacks. The MH shifted off the jackes (to the right) and bent both rear jackes to the tune of $600. I do not block them any more. If I level the MH with blocks under the tires is it ok to take the slids out without the jacks being used?
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:26 PM   #41
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Pete and Linda, Apparently all jacks are not created equal. I would get the proper use information from the jack manufacturer before trying to get advice from anyone else. The manufacurer knows their products limitations and how they want it used.
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:25 PM   #42
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WOW! You have many good answers. Question for you; What leveling device does your rig have? Hydraulic, air or electric?
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