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Old 12-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #15
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While researching for my 12' extension hoses, I could not find a high-pressure quick disconnect with a shutoff valve. The ones I found were only rated for low pressure. The do make HP QC in 3/8" for LP/NG but a separate shut off would be needed. While we are at it the hoses have ratings as well (HP or LP). So I my rig, I have shut off valves on the curbside connectors (LP & HP). I never leave unattended hoses pressurized.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:44 AM   #16
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If all else fails, take it to your local Propane Dealer and have them check it out.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:15 PM   #17
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I wonder, is this a quality kit like the Extend-a-stay or Stay-a-while or is it something a prior owner cobbled up.

One posibility is tripping an excess flow vlave when you hook up but I don't think so.

There is no liquid propane in the hose, the liquid you see is water condensed out of the air by the super cold gas escaping the hose.

As for the valve.. Inside the tank, things take a turn for the TOP.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:37 PM   #18
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Ahhh. That explains the side outlet. Thanks. As for the cobbled up kit, I did it. Didn't seem like rocket science. Was a jet acft. Mechanic in a past life.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:17 PM   #19
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The hose should be hooked up before the regulator.

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Old 12-30-2012, 07:19 PM   #20
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I have a 7 pound tank with extension hose. Did not want to be limited on where to use the Webber
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:51 PM   #21
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Well, you see, the lovely thing about both a Extend-a-stay and a 20 pounder on board is this.....

1: If I roun out of Propane in the middle of some cold hard night... The Extend-a-stay lets me feed from the luggable tank.

2: What you wrote about not being limited.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:52 PM   #22
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Well, you see, the lovely thing about both a Extend-a-stay and a 20 pounder on board is this.....

1: If I roun out of Propane in the middle of some cold hard night... The Extend-a-stay lets me feed from the luggable tank.

2: What you wrote about not being limited.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #23
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Same problem

I had the same problem ? I found a oil in the Weber regulator. I was told that leaving the hose hooked up and the gas on for long periods will cause the oil to collect in the hose and ruin the regulator ? Try forcing air threw the regulator and you should see a lot of oily smelly stuff come out. I had to replace the regulator. $30 ? The oil is what they add to give the propane a odor, raw propane gas has no odor, so they have to add it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:22 PM   #24
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Interesting reading.

I've been looking for a propane dealer who new how to convert my Q200 "type" BBQ with a quick connect at the rear of the unit, to a a connector (at the canister end) to fit onto/into a 5 Gal totabel bottle. My questions:
1. Is there a difference in the required pressure - HP or LP - that is needed to operate a canister/bottle type BBQ
2. I've been looking to convert my canister/bottle type BBQ to use a 3,5 or 7 Gal bottle. Where do I find (look for) the required parts to do this?

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:55 AM   #25
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Thanks for all of the help. I did't buy a pre packaged kit. I have a "T" in between the shutoff and the coach regulator, which is attached to a hose mounted to the outside of the coach. From there I have a quick disconnect coupling that has a shutoff built in. When using the BBQ, it is a constant flame similar to the bottles, then after 4 or 5 minutes it slowly dies out. If I disconnect the hose immediate, it releases all of the pressure in the hose and the gas shoots out in a gas/liquid state. Immediately reconnecting the hose produces no gas through the burners

If I leave the hose connected and the valve on on the BBQ, the fuel dissipates and there is no pressure in the hose if I disconnect. I can then re connect the hose, and the BBQ works as designed for another 4 or 5 minutes. It will repeat this process over and over. P

I am confused about the location of the shut off/ regulator as it is on the side of a horizontal tank, and seems it would be below the liquid line until less than 1/2 full. Obviously it works for the rest of the coach.

Thanks again for all of the input. I like to try and understand how these things work.
these resources may help:

Propane 101 - Promoting Propane Safety Through Understanding

http://www.bustropolis.com/files/dow...nformation.pdf
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:36 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Just For Fun View Post
Interesting reading.

I've been looking for a propane dealer who new how to convert my Q200 "type" BBQ with a quick connect at the rear of the unit, to a a connector (at the canister end) to fit onto/into a 5 Gal totabel bottle. My questions:
1. Is there a difference in the required pressure - HP or LP - that is needed to operate a canister/bottle type BBQ
2. I've been looking to convert my canister/bottle type BBQ to use a 3,5 or 7 Gal bottle. Where do I find (look for) the required parts to do this?

Thanks
If you can find a "BBQ/Grill" store they will have what you want. I did mine a year or so ago.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just For Fun View Post
Interesting reading.

I've been looking for a propane dealer who new how to convert my Q200 "type" BBQ with a quick connect at the rear of the unit, to a a connector (at the canister end) to fit onto/into a 5 Gal totabel bottle. My questions:
1. Is there a difference in the required pressure - HP or LP - that is needed to operate a canister/bottle type BBQ
2. I've been looking to convert my canister/bottle type BBQ to use a 3,5 or 7 Gal bottle. Where do I find (look for) the required parts to do this?

Thanks
We have a small grill that has a combination regulator/flame control valve. This type of grill, or any grill that has its own regulator, requires high pressure LP so you would tie into your RV's LP system BEFORE the regulator or use a high pressure hose to attach the grill to a portable tank.

Quick disconnects are not readily available for high pressure LP. If you really must have a quick disconnect, you need a grill that has a control valve that is separate from the regulator. In this case, you would not use the regulator that came with the grill and would tie in to your RV's LP line AFTER the regulator and use low pressure LP. Or if you're using a portable tank, use a regulator on the tank and put the quick disconnect after the regulator.

Propane supply houses may have portable tanks with less than 20 pound capacity. If not, Camping World has them, and they are also available on Amazon and probably on eBay. The small tanks aren't as popular as 20 and 30# and are therefore fairly expensive.

The biggest problem with a portable tank is where to carry it. It should be carried in a vented storage area, NOT in a regular storage bay where leaking propane could accumulate and explode if triggered by a spark.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:53 AM   #28
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IF you are providing pressure to the input of a regulator, no matter if it is incorporated into a valve/control or not, This type of grill is designed to use some kind of bottle or canister, Either a luggable or a throwaway, The pressure (rounded somewhat) is 100 PSI

If it's a Low pressure grill specifically designed to be fed from a low pressure port on your RV, and usually also attached to the side of the RV, again, rounded, 1/2 PSI (11" of Water is the actual specificaton).

All portable grills use the 100 PSI hose. Pre regulator.
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