Community Forums

SyrenSkywolf · 08-06-2011, 09:08 PM

I decided randomly while I was crawling around on the ground looking at the underside of the MH (1978 Tioga) to check the propane tank. The valve wouldn't budge in either direction. I'd assume it was closed, but when I couldn't turn it open, I tried turning it closed. Didn't budge at all either way, and I tried putting some force into it.

Any tips on how to remedy this? or is this something I need to bring to the local dealer to check out?

Also, the tank is getting a fair amount of rust on it. Is this something to worry about?

njs42 · 08-06-2011, 09:32 PM

Valves that do not work and tanks that are rusty would be on my list to fix---then I wouldn't have to worry. I would have someone else do the work if the valve you are talking about is the only exterior shut off valve.

SyrenSkywolf · 08-07-2011, 07:48 PM

Not what I want to hear this close to winter (and only having 9 days left until I am unemployed), but what can you do, right?

ahicks · 08-07-2011, 08:05 PM

Not a job for the inexperienced or faint of heart. To give you an idea, you'll need to remove the POL fitting that's screwed into the valve (between the regulator and the valve) with the valve turned on (or wherever it's at). 7/8" wrench and the threads are backwards/LH. Get that done, then you let the tank freeze down. Give it a couple of minutes roaring away while the propane is free flowing from the open valve, then you'll notice the roaring slow down and stop as the propane freezes. Now's your chance to get the valve out, and the new one in. I wouldn't waste my time trying to fix the old one. They aren't that expensive.

Common sense would tell you no sparks during any part of this operation? That would be electrical ( Disconnect the batteries prior to doing anything on the propane system!!!!) or static (don't even THINK about hitting anything with a hammer!!!).

And make sure there's nothing downwind for at least 1/4 mile to allow the propane to disperse. More is better.

DAN L · 08-08-2011, 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SyrenSkywolf

I decided randomly while I was crawling around on the ground looking at the underside of the MH (1978 Tioga) to check the propane tank. The valve wouldn't budge in either direction. I'd assume it was closed, but when I couldn't turn it open, I tried turning it closed. Didn't budge at all either way, and I tried putting some force into it.

Any tips on how to remedy this? or is this something I need to bring to the local dealer to check out?

Also, the tank is getting a fair amount of rust on it. Is this something to worry about?

are you da guy with the fridge problem?

most fridges that old (1978) run off propane only, so your propane valve must be on.

my fridge runs off of 120v or propane, but it is 23 years newer.
you can clean the rust off the tank with a wire brush and paint it with aluminum colored reflective rustoleum type paint.
use the search function on this forum to look for more info on painting. most horizontal rv tanks are asme tanks. the regulations on asme tanks are different from dot bottles.

http://www.propane101.com/index.htm

Propane Safety and Use

http://www.bustropolis.com/files/dow...nformation.pdf

POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks

SyrenSkywolf · 08-08-2011, 02:57 AM

Yeah, I am the same one with the fridge issue lol. But the fridge is both propane and electric

wa8yxm · 08-08-2011, 08:31 AM

I have seen valves opened (or closd) so hard that it took a lot of force to turn 'em the other way.. this is very common on Propane valves which are "left handed" people thinking like a water faucet force them hard against the stop and it takes tools to turn 'em the other way.
Recommendation: Visit a propane WHOLESALER who has a service technician. not a dealer who delivers tanks or a swap out place but the kind of place that delivers to the dealer.
Google: Proapne {your current zip code}
for a suspect list near you.

Gary RVRoamer · 08-08-2011, 07:31 PM

I'd take it to a propane tech, not an RV shop.

nbounder · 08-10-2011, 08:52 PM

So - here's the lesson to be learnrd - NEVER NEVER NEVER jam a valve open or closed. The correct procedure is to open it to the stop, then back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Closing a vlve is simlar, but you close it tjll the flow stops, then leave it there. Dont ever JAM valves "just to be sure they're open (or closed)'

How to open a jammed valve? If it's propane, ya gotta be real careful. Loosen the nut around the stem by spraying kroil or Lub-e on it and let it sit for a day. you then (if lucky) might be able to 'rock' the nut back & forth a tiny bit at a time, till it actually moves. Spray again with kroil and try rocking the valve handle. may take a while, but it frequently works. The key is loosening that nut just a tiny bit at a time. Best advise I can offer - throw that can of WD40 as far as you can, to be sure you don't accidentally pick it up & use it.

SyrenSkywolf · 08-11-2011, 02:06 AM

I would never get rid of my can of WD40!!! To utter such nonsense is blasphemy! It is a great thing to have! Fish go nuts over the stuff!!!!

At least it works great for something, right? :P

SyrenSkywolf · 08-14-2011, 01:35 AM

Finally got it loose. Was stuck open.

Any recommendations on the minimum amount of propane to put in to ensure it works properly before filling it up?

ahicks · 08-14-2011, 08:30 AM

A single gallon will produce the same pressures/flow rates a full tank will. Checking it out with just this in it is a good plan...

Senior Chief · 08-14-2011, 08:42 AM

Even before you fill it with that one gallon, check the relief/10% valve to see if it opens and closes freely. This will be a small (pencil eraser-size) round valve with little ears near the filler opening. It should be open during filling to vent air (cool and clear) and when the tank is at capacity, it will start to spit propane (white vapor, very cold).

There are plenty of idiots filling propane bottles out there- always WATCH during filling to make sure you aren't a victim of their idiocy.