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Old 02-15-2016, 08:21 AM   #15
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Thanks guys.....the more I think about this, an inspection of the jack is next on the list.

At this point I am not even sure if the pin is only needed when retracting the jacks.
Son says they always break when he is getting ready to come home.

So the problem may be related to how the jacks retract (limit switch was mentioned).

Thanks again, will post what I find.

Dan
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:39 AM   #16
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I had a similar issue on a scissor jack on the rear of our fifth wheel. The pin that went through the threaded part of the jack broke and I replaced it with a cotter pin. It lasted about three cycles before the cotter pin would get cut in half. More if I put a lot of pressure on the jack. The only thing I found that was hard enough was a small philips screw driver, but I couldn't secure it in the hole.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:50 AM   #17
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If it is shearing the pin something is very wrong.

Do NOT place a better pin as something more expensive WILL break.

Consider that pin the sacrifice part meant to break like the soft key holding the flywheel on lawnmower engines.

Get the jack in your hands and determine the fault.

Clearly the stop indication is not hapening.

Look for limit switch or if by current check brushes or ???

Do some troubleshooting.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
If it is shearing the pin something is very wrong.

Do NOT place a better pin as something more expensive WILL break.

Consider that pin the sacrifice part meant to break like the soft key holding the flywheel on lawnmower engines.

Get the jack in your hands and determine the fault.

Clearly the stop indication is not hapening.

Look for limit switch or if by current check brushes or ???

Do some troubleshooting.
Picking the jack up today. Will post some pictures of what I find.

Thanks for sme great suggestions....I had a feeling there were some experts on this forum...

Dan.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:03 PM   #19
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Started a new thread with proper topic since it is now a jack repair issue...

Atwood level legs teardown story

The thread had photos, but bottom line, I believe the slip-clutch went bad and is not releasing properly, causing the pin to shear.

AND, making a hardened pin was not good because the coupler is also hardened....

Regards,

Dan
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:46 PM   #20
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Keep in mind, you want the least expensive, easiest to replace part to break first! There is a reason this particular pin breaks. I agree with TQ60.
If you want the toughest steel, brake-die steel is it.
I once had a 5er that would shear the pins in the slide mechanism 2/3 times a year. I carried 1/2 dozen stove bolts(ungraded) in my tool box, took 15 minutes to replace. Never did have to replace the $$$ motor though.
If you are heat-treating your pins, hold them to Rockwell C 48-50, but as we said, something expensive will break later.

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I spent 40 years in various machine shops but still have a lot to learn. You seem to be approaching this problem very well, the same as I would. I also agree having the jack would be very beneficial, it may have a story to tell. You will succeed because of your perseverance.

Kevin
I was a toolmaker for Westinghouse in another life. You NEVER quit learning or you fade-away.
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Old 02-26-2016, 11:16 AM   #21
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dpinvicdic, sounds like you have your problem pretty much solved. I thought I might add my 2cents to this thread. When hardening drill rod you have to temper that is bring it back after hardening or it will be too hard and will snap easily. Dowel pins have a softer core and are tougher. In hard material they can be sheared off, in softer material they distort and mangle the hole. When I need a odd size pin I use drill blanks. They basically dowel pins in drill sizes. They are available in jobber length, letter, fractional and number sizes. This way I can make the hole fit the pin if it ends up odd sized. I do harden o1 and other steels but I find its a pain and messy. I hope this added info helps.
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Old 02-27-2016, 08:17 AM   #22
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dpinvicdic, sounds like you have your problem pretty much solved. I thought I might add my 2cents to this thread. When hardening drill rod you have to temper that is bring it back after hardening or it will be too hard and will snap easily. Dowel pins have a softer core and are tougher. In hard material they can be sheared off, in softer material they distort and mangle the hole. When I need a odd size pin I use drill blanks. They basically dowel pins in drill sizes. They are available in jobber length, letter, fractional and number sizes. This way I can make the hole fit the pin if it ends up odd sized. I do harden o1 and other steels but I find its a pain and messy. I hope this added info helps.
Yes, that is what I have recently learned. I had failed to do that, and probably got pin the too hot in addtdtion to not tempering.

The jack gas now opperated 20 times without a problem with a pin made from a bolt.
also bought some dowel pins, but will need to grind them down because they are .250 and I need .220.

Thanks for those tips.

Dan
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