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Old 03-31-2011, 08:46 AM   #15
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The electric tow is probably a great idea for some motorhomes like the diesel pusher it's being demonstrated on, but I don't think it's meant for your particular situation. If you look at the 2002 Brave brochure you'll see the towing capacity is 5,000 lbs. The maximum tongue weight however is only 350 lbs. I'm sure the weight of the front of the car hanging on the hitch far exceeds 350 lbs. I'm guessing it's in the 1,500 lb range if not more.

The last thing you want to do is bend the frame or tear the hitch off your new coach. A better choice would be either a Roadmaster or Blue Ox towbar and baseplate assembly. Then there won't be any weight on the frame and a little more distance between the front of the car and the rear of the motorhome. It'll be a lot easier to negotiate corners without crunching the car into the back of the coach. The only downside to towing with a towbar is that you can't backup with the towed vehicle attached.

Another thing you're going to need is a braking system for the car being towed. Both Ford and Workhorse recommend brakes on anything being towed that weighs over 1,500 lbs. They don't get into the legal discussion as to whether or not a towed vehicle is a trailer, they just say anything over that weight being towed needs brakes.

You may have enough power to pull your car but the brakes on the motorhome are only rated to stop the weight of the coach and it's contents, not the additional weight of the vehicle being towed. If your motorhome is built on a Workhorse chassis the maximum weight of the coach and it's contents (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 18,000 lbs. The combined weight of the coach, it's contents, and the towed vehicle (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is only 21,000 lbs. That means if you load the coach to the max you can only tow an additional 3,000 lbs which is a fairly light vehicle.

If it's built on a Ford chassis the GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 20,500, and the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is 26,000 lbs.

I would be sure the vehicle you intend to tow falls within these weight parameters and is able to be towed 4 down. If it can't be towed 4 down that opens a whole new can of worms
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:04 AM   #16
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I have the Bunn at home but not in the RV. Reason: the Bunn keeps water hot to use, it's a tanked coffee pot the reason its fast, so if you are dry camping ,no power, you will need to start the gen then wait till the Bunn is hot to get coffee. So I went to a Mr. coffee type, about 5-6 minute and COFFEE. If you are on power all the time then the Bunn is great, but with a 30 AMP system you may have to turn the Bunn off to use other appliances.
As to the tow the others have it covered.

LEN
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:49 AM   #17
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We have used all of our regular electical appliances when hooked to 10amp or 15amp power . We found that if you run a regular vacum cleaner it will blow a fuse if air, or refrig kick in.

As for the other question, we are going to tow our 2008 Escape on a dolly. that is whats recommend by Ford.
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