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Old 05-08-2016, 11:48 PM   #1
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Questions about aftermarket under dash evaporator unit on the dash

Looking for some opinions, or advice on my dash AC repair project I am considering.
I just ordered a new compressor for my Chieftain 23, Sanden 709 and am thinking of buying one of the Universal under dash evaporator units to put either on, or under the dash.
My questions, or quest for opinions has to do with,
1. Any reason it would not work?
2. Anyone else done this
3. Should I get one of the larger minibus size, or one of the smaller 13.4k ones.
examples

Universal A C Bus and Van Under Dash Evaporator Assembly 12V AC Air Conditioner | eBay

Universal A C Minibus Under Dash Evaporator Assembly Grey | eBay

Universal Underdash AC Evaporator Under Dash A C Air Conditioner 12V 432 100A | eBay
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:43 AM   #2
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Get what fits the area you are mounting to. But first, do you have or have access to the required plumbing that you will need to add one of these evaps to your present system?


A high pressure hose shop can handle the custom hoses, but you have to be the one who designs the system and sizing the proper hoses is very important.


How large is your condenser, with the addition of an evaporator, you may notice decreased efficiency at low engine speed/idle, your compressor capacity should be sufficient to handle the addition other wise.


System like what you are wanting to build up are common and you should be very pleased once you're done.


I'm assuming you are 609 experienced and have the ability to do this job without endangering yourself.


Please keep us informed, This is something that I also had planed for my coach, along with additional heating elements.


DTW
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:51 AM   #3
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Many vehicles have this.

Vans and country coach are a couple examples.

The country coach has a second unit in the bedroom with its own dryer.

Not sure how the vans do it.

Research the passenger vans as they come from the factory this way and should be easy to use places like auto zone Web to look up part numbers to see if compressor is same as standard or different.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:04 PM   #4
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There are several variables that you have to balance and trade-off:
1) Are you converting to R-134a or staying with R-12?
2) What room do you have to mount the extra evap unit?
3) Condenser capacity
4) Compressor capacity
5) Radiator capacity

I will provide some basic comments for each topic.
1) If converting to R-134a, then you need to flush the old mineral oil out of the system. R-134a typically use POE oil for conversions, factory R-134a use PAG oil. Either can work, POE is better for any residual mineral oil.
2) Ensure you can still do any engine maintenance and the inside evap unit does not block access for your engine cover.
3) Probably the biggest issue, with a second evap you need to make sure the condenser can remove sufficient heat. This problem is compounded by R-134a which requires a more efficient condenser than the old R-12 style tube and fin. R-134a style are referred to as parallel flow.
4) Compressor has to be able to provide enough at idle speeds
5) With all the extra heat being removed by the condenser, does your radiator have enough reserve capacity to still keep the engine from overheating?
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 38Chevy454 View Post
There are several variables that you have to balance and trade-off:
1) Are you converting to R-134a or staying with R-12?
2) What room do you have to mount the extra evap unit?
3) Condenser capacity
4) Compressor capacity
5) Radiator capacity

I will provide some basic comments for each topic. and discard the old one.
original plan was use the ild evap, and build my own dash unit, but it is cheaper to buy a entire unit, and use it.
1) If converting to R-134a, then you need to flush the old mineral oil out of the system. R-134a typically use POE oil for conversions, factory R-134a use PAG oil. Either can work, POE is better for any residual mineral oil.
2) Ensure you can still do any engine maintenance and the inside evap unit does not block access for your engine cover.
3) Probably the biggest issue, with a second evap you need to make sure the condenser can remove sufficient heat. This problem is compounded by R-134a which requires a more efficient condenser than the old R-12 style tube and fin. R-134a style are referred to as parallel flow.
4) Compressor has to be able to provide enough at idle speeds
5) With all the extra heat being removed by the condenser, does your radiator have enough reserve capacity to still keep the engine from overheating?
Thanks for the info.
I only intend to run the one evaporator unit.
I will need to have one hose made to make the reach to the top of the dash.
Engine is a 454, and the compressor is a new Sanden 709.
I will be running the new 134 refrigerant in it.

I am not sure how to run a multiple units or I would love to get two 13k btu smaller units, and put one in front of the passenger, and one in front of the driver.
But that is beyond my level of experience.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IamJerryP View Post
Thanks for the info.
I only intend to run the one evaporator unit.
I will need to have one hose made to make the reach to the top of the dash.
Engine is a 454, and the compressor is a new Sanden 709.
I will be running the new 134 refrigerant in it.

I am not sure how to run a multiple units or I would love to get two 13k btu smaller units, and put one in front of the passenger, and one in front of the driver.
But that is beyond my level of experience.
OK, so you are just replacing the stock evap with the new evap unit. So a lot less concerns over the capacity issues. I still recommend to get a new parallel flow condenser though. Assuming your radiator is good shape it should not have issues. Local hose shop should be able to make the custom hose for you, take the ends and ensure you have any orientation marked since the hose may not curve the way you need, A/C hoses are stiff. Sandens are good compressors and what most aftermarket kits use. The Sanden are designed to cycle on and off, so somewhere in your high pressure line you should have a pressure switch. Your new line can have this put in when made up.
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:33 AM   #7
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Some web surfing finally paid off with some capacities for the Sanden 709 compressor chevy used on the p30s in 89
I was concerned about which eval unit to pick, as some are 13k BTU and others are 22k BTU


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