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Rkesselus · 11-26-2017, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TUCK55

i have the kool seal now lasted only 13 months

I have had much better results with the kool seal prior unit had it for 5 years was still good when we sold it a couple of years ago. I coated our new to us 2000 Allego Bus 35 last year and it still looks just about like it did when applied. I gave the old roof a real good cleaning with TSP let it dry overnight and then applied two wet coats of the Kool Seal with a 1/2 nap roller. What was the symptom of your failure?

TUCK55 · 11-26-2017, 10:41 PM

I did ever thing you did cleaned with tsp and a rubber roof cleaner the roof was dry and used two coats also used a pressure washer i went by all the instructions. It has a 3 year warranty but i have gone through 5 different people and after all they offer me 15 bucks and said they were sorry. Not sure why it started to fade out.

TUCK55 · 11-26-2017, 10:45 PM

Was on just 14 months. I will try another brand.

Rkesselus · 11-27-2017, 11:54 AM

Now you have me worried. When you say it started to fade out what do you mean by that. I want to keep an eye on mine. One thing I failed to mention my unit is in an enclosed garage except when out on the road. I got onto the stuff through our church. We purchased an old downtown bank building top expand our Parish Hall/admin. offices with a flat roof and have been successfully using the stuff on our roof for the last 10 years, re-coating about every 4 years.

TUCK55 · 11-27-2017, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkesselus

now you have me worried. When you say it started to fade out what do you mean by that. I want to keep an eye on mine. One thing i failed to mention my unit is in an enclosed garage except when out on the road. I got onto the stuff through our church. We purchased an old downtown bank building top expand our parish hall/admin. Offices with a flat roof and have been successfully using the stuff on our roof for the last 10 years, re-coating about every 4 years.

looks like your car when it needs a wax job and it started to peel off.

sibe · 06-15-2020, 04:58 AM

Interesting on 887 Tropical Cool... I have seen this product used on commercial saide, on metal roofs and on build ups,, Seamed fine .. a few peeled edges where not cleaned or over a non compatible surface..

I watched the Henry videos and did all the readings,, different substrates aka roof types need different prep , application technic or a primer that they explain and go over with videos and reading prior to buying..

Many other products have the same, like special cleaners or primer depending on the surface...

My roof was an older 1996 Minnie, same fiberglass sheet mold that the sides are made of..
It had self level dicor chaulk and patched done to the out perimeter back in 2012 ish. Most of it was good but cracking.. Last year i cleaned and redid those seams.. This year I gave roof a good scrubbing with a house cleaner , pressure was until it was well dulled and clean..
I used eternabond on a crack where the first rool transistion of the roof took place... I leveled it now with some patch.. let it dry..

Sat afternoon, Put a nice coat of 887 on roof... took almost 2 gallon , 29 foot.. 26 is actual area sealed.
Sunday norning a rolled on another coat, took about a gallon, went on easy..

Yes many say the silicon 887 is a bad move,, well roof lasted along time with out it,, and I am sure it will now out last the rig.

IMO a nice product for a Bare roof,, rubber roofs need some TLC and possible a specifc product..

**Spdracr39** · 06-15-2020, 05:24 AM

I am currently having to redo all the sealant on my roof because the PO coated everything with some unknown silicone based sealant and absolutely nothing would stick to it. Not only do I have to remove the old sealant I am having to clean it down to bare fiberglass to make the dicor and eternabond stick. Use Silicone if you want but know that if you ever have to replace an antenna, roof vent, skylight .... you will be in for a big treat.

sibe · 06-16-2020, 04:47 AM

Not going to debate,, I have used this on commercial and residential roofs as a badaide... I have done repairs,, scraped it off and reapplied,,, It is no harder IMO that scraping off eternabond,, cleaning and repairing again... Other 2 component roof products can fail and try getting them off..

Many failures of any sealers are poor prep, not primed if you are unsure of sticking.. or still another source of a leak or moisture that permeates from inside rig thru cieling or walls to cause adhesion breakdown...

Much is in the prep and use of primers with ANY of the ROOF sealants.. Yes silicone based products had a unique PIA factor upon repair..

If I was all worried I would have pulled all appliances off, removed side caps and did a Rubber or other membrane glue down,,, Any coating is what it is a coating..

It a 96 29RQ, with 30K... I paid 6k, put almost that into it to be my way with mechanicals and updates.. If I get a good 5-10 out of it and then slap a bandade coat on it again to sell for 6K all over... I happy..

I do agree with you as a general statement.. but it is all in balance,, LOL

THANKS and good luck fixin...

Qwimby1 · 06-17-2020, 06:14 PM

My 2000 Newmar has a fiberglass roof and I have a problem that I don't know how to deal with. It has never leaked on me, and I've been in some pretty heavy rain, but we had a tropical storm drop 6 inches in as many hours and I had some water from the ceiling. I've been in heavy rain a couple times since and it hasn't leaked.

I suspect it might be the front air conditioner, since Newmar bolted them from the top instead of from below as they were designed. The gaskets would age and get leaks. Mine did leak under the PO but it was fixed and until now I've had no problems. I suspect the water came down so fast it pooled much higher than usual and ran into the air unit instead of through the outside drains. Something that might never happen again.

I'm going to check the airs this week and decide on the next move. After all, the roof is 20 years old now. The wood appears to be fine and there are no spongy spots. I found a tech with a good reputation who proposes a Dicor coating of some kind which he says he has used many times with success. I'm reluctant to cover fiberglass but I guess it's an accepted system. There are roof people here who offer a lifetime guarantee for about $7000 for a 40 footer. This approach I've chosen will run me $1245.

sibe · 06-18-2020, 04:19 AM

Qwim....

sounds like you have a plan,,
a FYI, have your guy pull both AC units and change gaskets.. Actually to do it right coat the roof then put the AC units back on in a couple days... many times that is not an option, since it is done outside and it adds some cost to take them off the roof and back up on that nice coated roof.. I have done it by myself and not damaged roof, I lay a piece of luan down to cover my tracks... slopping sealer around the AC unit make a nice ridge for a puddle of eater to lay around the gasket...
just a thought..

Dicor has some good roof stuff... those hard fiberglass,once shiney roof need a GOOD PREP.. washing and an abrasive or primer IMO.and research...
I have painted cars in collision industry plus boats, and RVs when I was younger since 1976..my maiden spraying job... LOL Still paint 9-14 jobs a week at my shop... so am anal about any coatings and how they work per manufacture spec/TDS sheets..

Qwimby1 · 06-18-2020, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sibe

Qwim....

sounds like you have a plan,,
a FYI, have your guy pull both AC units and change gaskets.. Actually to do it right coat the roof then put the AC units back on in a couple days... many times that is not an option, since it is done outside and it adds some cost to take them off the roof and back up on that nice coated roof.. I have done it by myself and not damaged roof, I lay a piece of luan down to cover my tracks... slopping sealer around the AC unit make a nice ridge for a puddle of eater to lay around the gasket...
just a thought..

Dicor has some good roof stuff... those hard fiberglass,once shiney roof need a GOOD PREP.. washing and an abrasive or primer IMO.and research...
I have painted cars in collision industry plus boats, and RVs when I was younger since 1976..my maiden spraying job... LOL Still paint 9-14 jobs a week at my shop... so am anal about any coatings and how they work per manufacture spec/TDS sheets..

Really good info. Thanks. I'm not sure I can follow the procedure you suggest because I have a dealer set to inspect the airs, and then send it to another shop for the roof treatment. I'll see what I can work out. The rear air was replaced two years ago so I'm assuming it won't be a problem yet.

j2catfish · 06-18-2020, 01:52 PM

IF you are planning on keeping the RV for a long time, I recommend that you have the roof sprayed by RV-Flex Armor. It is expensive but it really works; zero leaks. Got to take the RV to their location (many in the USA). They remove every thing from roof. fix any damage and spray on the coating, then replace every thing they removed. Warranty for ever. My 33 foot roof cost about $6,000.00 but I am keeping the rig until I get to old to travel. (when ever that might be).
Good luck with your roof, how ever you decide to do it.

sibe · 06-18-2020, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j2catfish

IF you are planning on keeping the RV for a long time, I recommend that you have the roof sprayed by RV-Flex Armor. It is expensive but it really works; zero leaks. Got to take the RV to their location (many in the USA). They remove every thing from roof. fix any damage and spray on the coating, then replace every thing they removed. Warranty for ever. My 33 foot roof cost about $6,000.00 but I am keeping the rig until I get to old to travel. (when ever that might be).
Good luck with your roof, how ever you decide to do it.

if you can afford the spray on good stuff.. it like a 2 compnet,, rhino quard,,, use it works,, the prep is a job.. take everything off.. yep..

Many of us are the band aide mode,,, rv that have issues. As PM work to a solid roof/// spray on is the bomb

as for the 887.. i said it has pitfalls but i see dicor peal,, others etc,,
some one posted 887 peeled on an edpm roof.. yep henrys has a procedure. a primer and a test... it says you can try, clean , test coat,, dry well recoat.. etc but optimum results are after a primer to isolate ruber or any solvent senative surfaces.. blah blah... it the paint tech in me .. sorry to ramble..

products for everyone, budget , taste,, like there is always a seat for an arse.. oops