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Old 08-08-2006, 11:42 PM   #15
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Bruce, glad to hear that you noe have a good working refrigerator. It is hard to believe that the baffle would be missing from the get go. Maybe Winnebago will step up and do the right thing. Let us know if they do. Thanks
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Old 08-09-2006, 02:59 AM   #16
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I might have learned something here, but I'm not sure... (!). Maybe I'm a dummy, but I cannot understand how missing the spiral sheet metal baffle in the chimney will affect the propane burner so much that the fridge won't cool. I always thought the spiral baffle was only for cleaning the exhaust flue. About every three years, I'd remove the plastic fridge roof cover and grab the wire holding the spiral baffle and just 'ream' the tube a few times to remove rust & soot in the flue.
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Old 08-09-2006, 10:41 AM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I always thought the spiral baffle was only for cleaning the exhaust flue </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Troth, the owner of Mikes LP Gas & RV Repair told me the purpose of the "Spiral sheet metal baffle" was to "Baffle/Slow down" the heat from excaping out the top of the tube. He said the length of the wire had to be exact to keep the spiraled section next to the "Heat Exchanger" of the refridge.

He also said "Why did it work at all". I said I always started it on 115v for overnioght, loaded the refridge with cold food from refridge in house, set it to "Auto" and forgot about it, and as long as I pluged into "Shore Power" every 1 or two days it seemed to work. He said it probably had enough heat to "Almost Maintain", but not enough to "Make colder", and I must have been using propane! He said I also should notice a differrance in running on Electrict, due to Electrict heat being applyed to the same rea, and the "Spiral Thing" also slows down the heat the electrict applies!

We will see next week if I don't get an "Electric Site" when we go "Northern Minnesota"!


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Old 08-09-2006, 10:44 AM   #18
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">due to Electrict heat being applyed to the same rea, and the "Spiral Thing" also slows down the heat the electrict applies! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Darn "Keyboard" that should be "Same Area"

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Old 08-09-2006, 11:20 AM   #19
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Super! Thanks Bruce. I did learn something here.



Thanks for sharing the info!

Tom
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:17 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">We will see next week if I don't get an "Electric Site" when we go "Northern Minnesota"! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well it's next week, worked great on LP gas, cools down faster (once it is cold) it went from 40 to 36 much faster on gas than on electric. Also, it ran better on Electric, out side temp for the week was between 81 and 85 degrees, only set refrig on 5 to 6, and down to 4 over night to maintain 36 degrees in refrig. On gas set it on 4 or 5, to maintain 36 degrees.

Now before it was repaired, had to run it on 8 or 9, to maintain 38 to 39 degrees on electric, and when switched to gas it would go up to 44 to 45 degrees in 24 hours, then if no electric I would start generator for 1 to 2 hours, and it would come down to 39 to 40 degrees. Works great now as noted above.

Now I think I will try Winnebago first, and if no luck, try Norcold! After all I spent a lot of LP gas and Generator gas on a refrig that had a missing part!

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Old 08-23-2006, 04:49 AM   #21
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Thanks for the feedback Bruce. I'm going to make a note to check for my spiraled baffle in the flue exhaust tube this weekend... My fridge seems to get about 5 degreees cooler on 120vac than on propane, and this could explain why. I'm also keeping an eye on the thread about small muffin circulating fans, inside & outside of the fridge... Lastly, when I get up on the roof and remove the fridge's rain cap, I intend to replace the four standard hold-down screws with stainless ones. The originals were just cad plated, but are now starting to rust big-time because they lie in small recesses that hold water on the cap.
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