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Old 07-06-2006, 08:52 AM   #1
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How long before it starts cooling. Works fine on Electrict, no problems, gas had flame, but would not cool it went to 55 degrees.

Came home blew out with air, some soot, but not much, flame looks better (higher), inside temp is 73 (just took out of garage) did not turn on electrict, because it does work, how long do I wait until diving deeper into problem?

Thanks

Bruce
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:52 AM   #2
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How long before it starts cooling. Works fine on Electrict, no problems, gas had flame, but would not cool it went to 55 degrees.

Came home blew out with air, some soot, but not much, flame looks better (higher), inside temp is 73 (just took out of garage) did not turn on electrict, because it does work, how long do I wait until diving deeper into problem?

Thanks

Bruce
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:58 AM   #3
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Hi Bruce,
I had a the same problem as you where the reefer worked on AC but not gas. I blew out the chimney from the top and re-lit the gas and the fridge now works wonderfully. Did you blow yours out from the top?
In answer to your question about time to cool, mine usually takes about six to eight hours, o/s temp dependent, to cool to about 34F.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:58 AM   #4
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If the burner lights and stays lit, it should cool. It should be noticeably cool in 2-4 hours and at food storage temperature (38 degrees) in 4-8 hours.

If it works on electric, the cooling unit itself must be OK.
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:16 AM   #5
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Bruce, it sounds like your gas burner is acting weak... (you're not getting enough heat). I'd suggest cleaning the gas feed tube to the burner and the orifice. -This is about an hour job; be careful not to loose the tiny orifice. You generally have to shut down the fridge and will need to remove some screws and the sheet metal box around the gas burner enough that you can get the burner out of the cabinet. Loosen & remove output LP line coming from the gas regulator to the burner too. Take the whole burner & tube assembly to a bench where you can work on it; clean paper or a white sheet is handy so you can see how much soot or dirt comes out after your cleaning. Most orifices are sapphires with precision holes; -be careful removing them and the tiny seal next to the orifice. Do not try using a pin to clean the hole. Only use alcohol and a little compressed air (like a camera lens dust cleaner). You might try a pipe cleaner through the main gas tube to the burner, but generally a stronger burst of comprssed air will blow out any cobwebs. (It's said that some spiders like the smell of propane and build nests in the tubes... Also, there can be some microscopic dust/dirt/rust in your LP gas tube as the regulators cannot stop that with their coarse internal filter).


Please report back if cleaning the orifice fixed your problem.

ps- I fired up the Norcold fridge on my coach last night in anticipation of camping this weekend. It was 92 degrees inside the fridge. Gas thermostat setting was 7 out of 10. At 2-1/2 hours later, fridge temp was down to 55 degrees. But at 4 hours after intial start, it was down to 34 degrees.
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:41 PM   #6
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Troth gives some good advice. Use alchol to clean the oriface and if need be, a wooden tooth pick, but nothing metal! The propane should cool better than does the electric element as it has nearly twice the heat energy of electric, if it is burning properly. Is the flame a nice blue with just a hint of yellow at the top? If not, then it isn't burning properly. While you have the bruner tube out, use a good shop-vac to clean the flue as much as possible. The flue should not be too bad or it would also effect the electric element operation. The other thing that could have a major effect is the gas pressure. It should be set to 11" of water column, by manometer at the entrance to the refrigerator. Do all other propane burning appliances burn with a nice blue flame? If not, then gas pressure could very well be suspect.
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Old 07-09-2006, 05:22 AM   #7
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Kirk,

Everything you say is true, BUT! It still does not work! I removed the burner cleaned it myself with alchol, no luck, blew out with 90 lb air presure, (the flue) very little soot came out. Took burner to "Mike's LP Gas", they repair Motorhome appliances, he checked the orfice with a brass wire of the proper size, reinstalled, flame looked higher, no cooling. Turned on "Electric" overnight, freexer went to -15, refrig went to 24. Turned off electric, turned on gas, in 5 hours freezer went to +15, frig +49.

I give up! taking it to "Mike's LP" next week!

Thanks everyone, I'v been on the roof everything on top clean and looks good, maybe its a circuit board, dealing with gas only?

Bruce
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:43 AM   #8
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Have them check the gas pressure of the lp system. It is critical for it to be 11" water colum of pressure for the refrigerator to operate properly. You need to have the same amount of BTU's of heat either gas or electric. Gas is just a quicker heat. Good luck and let us know the outcome.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:57 AM   #9
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Thanks Mike, a little bit of a delay,when trouble rains, it pours!! Bought a 2006 Saturn Vue AWD, 198 miles later rear differential went out, will take a few days for dealer to get a new one from the factory! That second problem comes first, than back to refrig problem!

Thanks Bruce
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:42 AM   #10
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Bruce, were you towing the Vue when the rearend went out? Let me know what Saturn thinks is the reason for the rearend to fail. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2006, 09:36 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Bruce, were you towing the Vue when the rearend went out? Let me know what Saturn thinks is the reason for the rearend to fail. Thanks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mike,

NO! Have not even had it long enough to install base plate. I did not hear it right away, was quite when first starting cold, then a slight hum that I could vary by the gas pedel. Told dealer tat if it was 20 years ago I would say it was ring and pinon noise an a rear wheel drive, or someone forgot to put grease in the rear end! He agreed, after a test drive of 3 miles! they "Saturn" are replacing the total assembly. Have not got it back yet, by the way it is a AWD! Will be sure to see if I can find out cause! and let everyone know, should be Thursday or Friday this week.

Bruce

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Old 07-13-2006, 03:56 PM   #12
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Well, got it back, everything is OK now, BUT! What happenned they (dealer) don't know. When asked the reply was, "Well there are two valves in there, 1 for the Left wheel, one for the Right Wheel on the AWD's, they are Computer controlled, and with 198 miles on your car we (dealer) don't open assemblies! We send them back to the "Factory", the cost of a new rear end is $2000. That's why we don't repair!

Bruce

PS. Refrig problem is going to have to wait, we (Minnesota) are heading for 100 degrees until Monday!
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:14 AM   #13
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Thanks Bruce, good luck with the refrigerator.
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:17 PM   #14
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Refridge fixed! $113.67 later, gas, burner, flame pressure, all OK, as I said it worked on electrict, I gave up took it to "Mike's LP Gas & RV Repair in Maplewood MN. After one day and checking everything, (Saying what I listed above was OK) they kept it overnight, andpulled the unit out this morning. The long black tube (which has the flame directly under it) should have had a "Draft" installed, (which is about 8 inch long, and is spiral in shape). This draft hangs from a wire, and the opnly way to get to it is to pull the unit out (the refrige). It was completely missing!

$102 labor, $10.95 parts, plus tax to fix! Extended warranty will not pay for "Missing Parts", Guess I call Winnebago next, its 3 1/2 years since I bought new. Wayne said it had enough heat to maintain as long as temp (outside) stayed reasonable. I always plugged into Electric overnight before leaving on a trip, set refridge on "Auto" and forgot about it, no problem until I hit "Hot Weather"!

Oh Well, Extendted Warranty was $100 dectuctable, could have been worse!

Bruce
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