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07-02-2001, 04:56 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 3
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This weekend I experienced a troubling situation. The temperature inside my refrig. was as hot as outside, approx. 80 degrees. Not Good 
Upon investigating it appears the LP is not "functioning properly." It showed all the prpoer signs but no go. So we ended up running the generator all weekend. It allowed the refrig. to work just fine. I've run down the usual things to check with no success. But I will entertain others or a rehash just to satisfy my curiosity. Just so you know I did not disassemble anything yet, as I did not wish to cause more issues at a remote site from home. I figured it would be safer to deal with this week at home. Although the racing was fun the beer was warm. But thanks to fellow racers we got a cool one.
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07-02-2001, 04:56 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 3
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This weekend I experienced a troubling situation. The temperature inside my refrig. was as hot as outside, approx. 80 degrees. Not Good 
Upon investigating it appears the LP is not "functioning properly." It showed all the prpoer signs but no go. So we ended up running the generator all weekend. It allowed the refrig. to work just fine. I've run down the usual things to check with no success. But I will entertain others or a rehash just to satisfy my curiosity. Just so you know I did not disassemble anything yet, as I did not wish to cause more issues at a remote site from home. I figured it would be safer to deal with this week at home. Although the racing was fun the beer was warm. But thanks to fellow racers we got a cool one.
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07-02-2001, 05:27 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Cypress, Texas USA
Posts: 6,626
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At least yours worked on AC. Our 15 month old Norcold N841F quit on us last month - it would barely cool on either LP or 120VAC. After losing all the meat, ice cream, etc. in the freezer during the drive (what a mess!!  ), we wound up using an ice chest for the balance of the trip!
Verdict - a new cooling unit (thankfully under warranty.) I suspect your problem is a restriction somewhere in the LP piping circuit, a bad thermocouple/flame detector/igniter or, at worst, a control board. Better than a whole new cooling unit!
Good luck!
Rust
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Dodge 3500 V-10 SLT ExtCab LB dually
Jayco Designer 3610XL 36' triple slide 5ver
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2011 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie Cummins 6.7L/6 speed auto/4.10LS crew cab LB dually
2004 Doubletree Mobile Suites 36RE3 5th wheel
Come join us on a TEXAS BOOMERS rally!
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07-03-2001, 02:12 AM
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#4
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Community Moderator
Gulf Streamers Club Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 8,263
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A good site to check out for helpful tips for your refrigerator is at www.rvmobile.com
Good luck at troubleshooting this problem.
RV Wizard, Mike C. 95 36' Rexhall Arebus Ford 460 w/ iRV2.com decals 94 Blazer 5spd. manual NASCAR #3 & #8
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Mike, Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, RV Merchandiser; Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser w/ Banks & 2 toads
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07-06-2001, 09:02 AM
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#5
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Community Moderator
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Florida Cooters Club
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
Posts: 9,606
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Give us some clues. What have you checked so far? Obvious things first, like did the propane burner ignite and stay lit? It is not unusual to have a problem with the LP burner, e.g. a dead bug, rust flakes or spider nest in the burner tube. Your manual should have a cleaning procedure for it but if not, check the hot water heater manual for a similar one.
Failure of the control board was also common in the late 80's thru the mid-90's. Dometic in particular had a lot of board problems, usually hairline cracks developing that opened a crucial circuit. Don't start out assuming that, though. Check the basics first.
Since your fridge cools on AC, there is nothing seriously wrong, i.e. the cooling unit works and the thermocouple itself is OK. Focus on the LP gas delivery and ignition portion of the system.
Gary Brinck
1996 Southwind 35LS
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Gary Brinck
2004 American Tradition; 2007 GMC Acadia
Homebase in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
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05-01-2006, 04:38 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hawkesville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 168
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV Wizard:
A good site to check out for helpful tips for your refrigerator is at www.rvmobile.com
Good luck at troubleshooting this problem.
RV Wizard, Mike C. 95 36' Rexhall Arebus Ford 460 w/ iRV2.com decals 94 Blazer 5spd. manual NASCAR #3 & #8 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks RVWizard .... This site answered all my questions and a few extra without starting a new string.
Mind you, I haven't fixed the electric cycle "no cool" problem yet but at least I know how when the time comes.
gordon
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05-02-2006, 04:59 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Triple E Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 187
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Gym,
If your problem can be described as the gas is ignited at the burner and appears normal but the system is not cooling then this is exactly the problem that I experienced recently. The problem seemed to be that the chimney was partially blocked. The fix, in my case was simple, turn off the gas, go up on the roof with an air hose and remove the chimeny/vent cover and blow air down the chimney. You'll be amazed at what comes out.
Hope this works for you.
Canuck
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2002 Triple E Signature A3607GW
300HP Cat 3126E, 6Sp Allison
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