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Old 01-22-2008, 07:36 PM   #1
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On a new to me 2004 Winnebago Brave 32V, the Norcold N822 refrigerator won't reliably turn on. Last week it did not power up then when it sat overnight, it came on by itself and cooled well. I turned it off and then a couple of days later, it turned on just fine and worked flawlessly over the weekend. Got back home on Monday afternoon after a short (265 miles round trip) trip, I unloaded the it, turned it off and now it will not power up at all. No display and no light inside. When I press the On/Off button, I can hear a slight click sound down towards the bottom of the unit and when I open the outside access to the back of the refrigerator, there is a single 'click' noise (about every 10 or 12 seconds) coming from the black box on mounted on the back. This is the box where the A/C power cord enters the box and has wires for 12v and 5v(I think) DC imputs.
I have tried the On/Off while on shore power, generator running as well as on the 12v house batteries. Have also unplugged the A/C power cord to see if anything would reset....but to no avail yet.
As an aside, the two 12v house batteries do not appear to be in great shape although they do show, after charging and at rest, 12.5 volts they seem to discharge quite rapidly. I will be replacing them pretty soon. Think bad batteries could cause the symptoms?
Anybody have any thoughts, ideas, etc to help me diagnose this?

Thanks,
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Old 01-22-2008, 07:36 PM   #2
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On a new to me 2004 Winnebago Brave 32V, the Norcold N822 refrigerator won't reliably turn on. Last week it did not power up then when it sat overnight, it came on by itself and cooled well. I turned it off and then a couple of days later, it turned on just fine and worked flawlessly over the weekend. Got back home on Monday afternoon after a short (265 miles round trip) trip, I unloaded the it, turned it off and now it will not power up at all. No display and no light inside. When I press the On/Off button, I can hear a slight click sound down towards the bottom of the unit and when I open the outside access to the back of the refrigerator, there is a single 'click' noise (about every 10 or 12 seconds) coming from the black box on mounted on the back. This is the box where the A/C power cord enters the box and has wires for 12v and 5v(I think) DC imputs.
I have tried the On/Off while on shore power, generator running as well as on the 12v house batteries. Have also unplugged the A/C power cord to see if anything would reset....but to no avail yet.
As an aside, the two 12v house batteries do not appear to be in great shape although they do show, after charging and at rest, 12.5 volts they seem to discharge quite rapidly. I will be replacing them pretty soon. Think bad batteries could cause the symptoms?
Anybody have any thoughts, ideas, etc to help me diagnose this?

Thanks,
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:32 AM   #3
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You do need at least 12 volts to operate properly. Have you checked for any loose 12 volt connections on the terminal block or control board of the refrigerator? I recommend you do so and while your at it make sure all the 12 volt circuits at the distribution panel are tight. You need to check the cabble connections at both ends of the battery source; this includes the ground to the frame. GOod luck and let us know what you find.
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Old 01-23-2008, 04:36 AM   #4
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Mike,
Thanks for your reply and imput. I will certainly double check the connections on the 12v DC side. I know that the refrigerator requires the 12v for operating the control board even when operating on 120v AC.
Question, please.... Do you need to have good 12v battery supply when operating on shore power (120v AC) or should the convertor supply the needed 12v? My manual shows a need for 12vDC, 15.4 max - 10.5 min.
Also, if I pull the 12v input into the control board, should I be able to check for the voltage at that point...given the breaker, etc is engaged? Checking it from the removed 12v wire to ground any precautions I need to be aware of...including removing the 12v wire, etc?
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:47 AM   #5
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You seem to be getting the 12v's you need because its trying to ignite. Would say you have air in LP line but thats out because it did run for a while. You could check the gas tube to burner and clean out may have some cob webs or dirt in tube.
Clean all 12v connections on board and terminals and protect with some di-electric grease.
You may still have air run your stove burners to elimiate as much air in line as possible.

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Old 01-23-2008, 06:46 PM   #6
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Check your fuses on the control board.Mine has a 3amp and a 5amp fuse which could be your problem.Good luck!
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:25 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the imput, folks.
I think I got it figured out!!!! Simply not getting the needed 12v due to low voltages from the house batteries. I disconnected the house batteries and hooked up a 12v booster battery pack and the refrigerator came on just fine. The house batteries were showing around 10.5v each!!
Looks like a stop for some new batteries is in store for tomorrow.
I guess you need the battery power to operate the control board and the refrigerator control board won't operate off the converter 12v. At least that seems to be the case with my refrigerator. Anybody know if this is the norm? If it should operate on the converter only, how would be the best way to test the converter to see if I am getting the necessary voltage out of it?
Thanks again,
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:51 AM   #8
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Your fridge can't tell the difference between converter output and battery - it only knows what voltage is available on its circuit. If the voltage is low with the converter running (plugged to shore power), then your problem is likely that the converter has failed and is not charging the batteries or providing 12v power onboard. However, it is possible that the batteries are so bad that the converter cannot bring the voltage up above 11.0, no matter how hard it works. Not likely, though.
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