Community Forums

Dan_public · 09-09-2014, 09:37 PM

Hi. Our coach has a remote door lock system that locks and unlocks the bay doors and the front door independently and together. However, it's not working properly. It locks the doors fine and unlocks the bay doors fine, but does not unlock the front door consistent (which is nerve wracking).

The front door unlock button is the second button from the left in this remote controller:

Sometimes the front door unlocks and sometimes not. Sometimes it unlocks after pressing the second button from the left by pressing and hold it. Sometimes, it unlocks after many tries (10-20).

I assume that there is a controller for this bad boy, but I can't find it. Also, there are four metal "buttons" in the door/door frame (see pic below) that may be involved. But I'm not sure about that either because it's not clear what the buttons are for.

Does anyone have this kind of system and have found issues like this? Any suggestions for solving the problem? Location of remote door controller?

I appreciate any help or suggestions with this.

Thanks,

Dan.

p.s. The front door has an air leak and maybe other issues. I posted about that here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f274/door...ak-218561.html

Door buttons:

Clements02 · 09-09-2014, 09:59 PM

My coach has a similar system. Mine had an actuator go bad in the main entry door. The buttons you refer to actually are connected to the wires connecting the actuator. If they are not making good contact then the door actuator will not work. The remaining 'buttons' should be for your entry steps. Your problem may not be with your actuator, but if it is, it is an easy replacement.

Dan_public · 09-09-2014, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clements02

My coach has a similar system. Mine had an actuator go bad in the main entry door. The buttons you refer to actually are connected to the wires connecting the actuator. If they are not making good contact then the door actuator will not work. The remaining 'buttons' should be for your entry steps. Your problem may not be with your actuator, but if it is, it is an easy replacement.

Clements

Thanks. I'll take that apart this Friday and inspect it. Maybe polish the buttons.

Regards,

Dan.

mgscott4 · 09-10-2014, 05:24 AM

If your problem is the key fob button, take it apart and fold tin foil about 4 times, trim it to fit under the rubber push button. Now, when the button is pushed, the tin foil contacts the circuit board and completes the circuit.

This trick works on GM key FOBs, it might work on yours, it only cost you a small piece of tin foil.

luvlabs · 09-10-2014, 08:19 AM

Your door buttons really need to be cleaned and polished. To keep from doing this once a week, use a small amount of dielectric grease on each one which will help with the electrical contact.

Dan_public · 09-10-2014, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvlabs

Your door buttons really need to be cleaned and polished. To keep from doing this once a week, use a small amount of dielectric grease on each one which will help with the electrical contact.

Roger and Mary,

Thanks for the great tip. That grease is now on my to-buy list for today.

Regards,

Dan.

Jupiter · 09-10-2014, 10:02 PM

Dan,

If all that doesn't correct the intermittent problem, try removing the 2 screws holding the brass "buttons" in the door jamb. Each button should have a wire "push type" connector in the back. The wire can work its way loose causing intermittent operation. Same thing can happen on the door side.

I had a similar problem and found a loose connection. I learned about this "fix" on this forum

cheers,
Joopy

Dan_public · 09-10-2014, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Dan,

If all that doesn't correct the intermittent problem, try removing the 2 screws holding the brass "buttons" in the door jamb. Each button should have a wire "push type" connector in the back. The wire can work its way loose causing intermittent operation. Same thing can happen on the door side.

I had a similar problem and found a loose connection. I learned about this "fix" on this forum

cheers,
Joopy

Joopy,

Thanks. That will be the first thing I try.

Regards,

Dan.

ChasA · 09-12-2014, 05:57 PM

Guys, you need to understand that dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. Dielectric means it is an insulator. The purpose it serves is to prevent arcing when there is a small space between the contacts. It has little usefulness in 12 volt circuits, but is very useful for preventing arcing in 120/240 VAC receptacles that are worn and in need of replacement.

smiller · 09-13-2014, 08:25 AM

Dielectric grease also protects against corrosion of contact surfaces, which is why it is commonly used in 12-volt applications.

Ray,IN · 09-15-2014, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvlabs

Your door buttons really need to be cleaned and polished. To keep from doing this once a week, use a small amount of dielectric grease on each one which will help with the electrical contact.

Dielectric grease is an insulator, it prevents or hinders electrical flow if put between contacts. Look it up.

Ray,IN · 09-15-2014, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smiller

Dielectric grease also protects against corrosion of contact surfaces, which is why it is commonly used in 12-volt applications.

To prevent corrosion and conduct electricity, use graphite grease. That is what we used on high-voltage cutouts for power lines because resistance is a major problem.

Ray,IN · 09-15-2014, 05:44 PM

Dan Public, our MH did exactly the same thing. The actuator was failing and eventually failed in the unlocked position. I had to disassemble the door, remove the actuator so I could use the key to lock the door. In the process it also caused the Trimark remote system to fail, requiring replacement of that too.

smiller · 09-15-2014, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Dielectric grease is an insulator, it prevents or hinders electrical flow if put between contacts. Look it up.

Dielectric grease has been used for ages to protect electrical contacts. It is an insulator but it does not affect conductivity of a metal-to-metal contact surface. In fact sometimes the insulating properties are desirable (to prevent high-voltage leakage, etc.) Conductive grease is not such a good thing because it does not facilitate conductivity in any meaningful way (between properly-mated contacts) while potentially causing crosstalk problems in multi-conductor connectors.

Permatex, Loctite, and all such manufacturers sell dielectric grease for the purpose of protecting electrical contacts in automotive applications. 'Look it up.'