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Old 10-23-2013, 01:25 PM   #1
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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Question replacing an innaccessable shower diverter valve

Hey all!
Well, let's see what my next project stirs up: we're full-timers living in our 1997 Rexhall Aerbus, and last winter our shower diverter valve (and/or associated piping...menoknow) that is kissing the inside of the exterior wall froze and cracked; and, of course then, leaked...for a spell. My rv guy says he will have to access the area for replacement/repairs through a cutout that he would make through the adjacent interior wall panel and the abutting 12" pantry side (with a pantry shelf located smack dab in the middle of the proposed opening). The whole thing sounded messy, spendy, problematic, and, ...what if it happened again? I left it alone and went home and rubbed my two brain cell together...and pondered a spell.

I thought to, and proposed to my rv guy: instead, install a small exterior service panel in the appropriate location to accomplish the same ends, to which my rv guy said "Bosh! it will be a source of water infiltration and (oogie-boogie) there's all those structural ribs and blocking you might cut into!".

Intimidated I said no more...needed to rub my two brain cells together and ponder...

Well. I have located those (oogie-boogie) structural ribs and blocking, and they are not even an issue. As to the possibility of water infiltration, I believe that I could rest assured that there would be no issue here...were I to use a small bead of siliconized latex caulk and place it along the top and bottom, and where the door meets it's frame, I could effectively seal the opening and still 'unseal'/access the door later down the road, if need be; and with but a little bit of my own mickey mouse razzle dazzle. Note that I would infill all open spaces between fixture/piping and ext. wall with insulation prior to the service panel installation.

It would have to be easier, less spendy, and practical...I be thinkin.

I thin watts weawy needud here is a new shower diverter valve design that allows for replacement from inside the shower!?!?

So, anyhoo, that's what I be thinkin...input & feedback?

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Old 10-23-2013, 08:58 PM   #2
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Sounds like a plan. One thing, forget about using any silicone sealants. They are prone to leak and old-school technology, which has been surpassed with new products that adhere much better, seal better, and last longer.

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert theConstitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:40 AM   #3
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For my $0.02 worth, opening the exterior wall is asking for trouble, and not just from a water intrusion point of view.

There is no way you'd ever get a panel to seal perfectly against drafts the way a solid wall can, insulation ditto a seam will be an issue, if the plumbing froze without a breach in that wind proof panel (and integral insulation) it will freeze that much easier afterwards.
Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:30 AM   #4
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Check at Lowe's or Home Depot. Delta and Moen sell replacement diverter valves with a large cover that can cover a larger hole that you may be able to change your valve from the front.

That's what I did on a previous coach.
Jerry & Patsy Potter, Taz & Jake Jr.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:51 AM   #5
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Location: Summerville, SC
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Shower diverter

I have a Winnebago Journey DL 2001 with a fiberglass (plastic?) shower. I removed the entire thing and replaced the diverter value. I could have replace or fixed anything at that point since I was now looking at the "stud" walls. Once I put the new hardware in, I bought new two sided tape (this is what was there) and replaced it the shower stall. It all works great and you cannot tell anything was done, except the new valve. Working by myself, it took about two days off and on. One of the biggest problems was getting that two side tape off the back of the shower ... that stuff really sticks! I wanted to remove it so I could put the new tape in the same places.

I have pictures I took along the way if you are interested.

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Old 10-27-2013, 10:41 AM   #6
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modified shower valve replacement plan a go

Thanks all for the input. That $0.02 worth from Murf2u...set me to thinkin straight again. I can tend to try and apply my German rocket science to too many things. Can be worse than too many chiefs! Getting better, though. Anyhoo-

I'll access through the cabinet and with a bit larger hole that will be located fully below the interfering shelf*, and so as to still be able to install the shower fill tube nuts onto back of the valve fixture- as well as to be able to reconnect the two elbows and two couplings**. (I might need someone with smaller paws to do this part.)

And, hey, I'll pack the area around the pipes and fixture with some insulation as well.

To close it up: I'll take an oversized piece of 3/16" paneling (1 1/4" wider at the sides and bottom, and marginally at the top) and attach the interior wall panel section that I cut out to access....to the back of that panel- centered- and fastened with adhesive and four screws; and, lastly attach the new 'access panel' with six screws...
and call 'er done.

Not today though...football.
Have fun.

*The valve could then be easily accessed, which was part of my goal.
** For giggles, I will also remove/replace the last sections of pipe that connect to the faucet, and all fittings...as I am still unsure where in that area of business the leak last winter had come from!
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:26 PM   #7
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That is exatly how ours is done in our CC, on opening opposit the valve, inside a cabinet that is covrted by a piece of material same as the cabinet.

Word of caution...carefull cutting.

Suggest you gat piece of wood and cut hole same size as you are looking at, a pattern so to speak, attach in place where hole goes.

Now get utility knife and set for minimum thickness and cut against pattern.

Then pry out cutout.

Now less risk of cutting pipes.

With some backing this piece can be used as cover a.d held in olace with short screws, completly out of sight since it will be flush in the hole.
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:22 AM   #8
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Our shower/tub stall has been used for storage since we got it and it looks like it was never used. I got it all emptied the other day and looking at the drain I could see under the shower stall.
I am lucky there is 2 cut outs under the shower stall by the toilet one is the size my arm will fill/fit that won't work. I took off the other access and have a straight shot at the problem. It is the collar that attaches to the shower enclosure drain it was cracked. Have to run to Home Depot and get one and hook it back up.
I don't see any water damage thank heavens, but there is antifreeze I hope in the pee trap. We have never ran water in the tub/shower so it must be antifreeze from the previous owner.
I lucked out. Good luck with your project I wouldn't even know where to start taking the shower/bathtub out.

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