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Old 08-11-2018, 07:14 PM   #43
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I bought my diagonal clippers and hog ring pliers at Harbor Freight for less than $15.

I think the hog rings came from Lowes.

The other tools were standard stuff than I already had.
Thanks; I see Amazon has the pliers, too. Are the rings a standard size?
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:31 PM   #44
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I think you need to match the size of the rings to the pliers you want to use.
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:22 PM   #45
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I think you need to match the size of the rings to the pliers you want to use.
OK, thanks again for your help.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:50 PM   #46
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Our replacement Ultra Leather covers arrived today... gulp. They actually look really nice and came with some sections already padded which was a pleasant surprise. So as soon as we get some sunny weather we'll be getting this project started.

Can anyone who has done this tell me how those little metal logos on the sides of the armrests are attached? Do they just pop off with a pry or what? Thanks in advance for any tips.
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:45 AM   #47
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In the center area of the logo itís a sticker that you can peel back to expose the 2 screws. The new arm rest skins will have holes to line up with the plate.
Have fun and safe travels!
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:28 AM   #48
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In the center area of the logo itís a sticker that you can peel back to expose the 2 screws. The new arm rest skins will have holes to line up with the plate.
Have fun and safe travels!
Thanks, Ben. Our seats look to be the exact same style as yours. I hope it will stop raining soon so we can get started. I appreciate your helpful comments.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:05 PM   #49
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I hope youíre not in the hurricane path, it doesnít look good for the Carolinas.

On my seat bottoms the center section was glued to the foam. Just carefully separate the old fabric from the foam. I used a spray glue which I got from a fabric store to attach the new fabric.

If you have any questions you can PM me.
Have fun and safe travels!
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Old 09-13-2018, 07:57 PM   #50
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I hope youíre not in the hurricane path, it doesnít look good for the Carolinas.

On my seat bottoms the center section was glued to the foam. Just carefully separate the old fabric from the foam. I used a spray glue which I got from a fabric store to attach the new fabric.

If you have any questions you can PM me.
Have fun and safe travels!
Thanks. No hurricane here (Houston), but it's a rainy week. We have had flash flood warnings for the past few days.

The covers came with a piece of foam already attached in the center of the seat bottom. I was glad to see that, as well as the foam in the sections of the seat back. The top where the "pillow" goes is really wrinkled from shipping and I hope that will smooth out when we pull the covers on.
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Old 09-14-2018, 03:57 AM   #51
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Replacing front seat driver and passenger seat covers - Flexsteel

Thatís good youíre not in the path of Florence, but your area was hit hard last year. My thoughts and prayers go out to everyone affected by these events.

Well itís good to hear there has been improvements to the seat cover construction. That should help with installation. The wrinkles will smooth out once installed and back in your MH. They should look as good as new, even better. I took lots of pics as I removed the old fabric which helped me when I started to install the new covers. Please share pics when finished.
Have fun and safe travels!
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Old 09-14-2018, 07:02 AM   #52
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Sarah, please donít PM anyone on this thread as I am very interested in how this goes for you. I have new seat skins coming for my MH too.
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:50 AM   #53
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Sarah, please donít PM anyone on this thread as I am very interested in how this goes for you. I have new seat skins coming for my MH too.
+1. I'm sure I'll be facing this issue down the road.
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Old 09-14-2018, 11:25 AM   #54
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Sarah, please donít PM anyone on this thread as I am very interested in how this goes for you. I have new seat skins coming for my MH too.
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+1. I'm sure I'll be facing this issue down the road.
I will update this thread for sure. I'm also planning to create a thread in the Fleetwood Owner's section since we have been discussing our seat issues there.
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Old 09-14-2018, 11:45 AM   #55
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And speaking of PMs, I got some good info from another poster (thanks jvalich!) a while ago in PMs that I will share. I consolidated his good advice here:


Quote:
Originally Posted by jvalich
I have a few pic that I took to note positions of hog rings etc. It's not hard to do. You remove the arms, head rests if you have them and any controls and handles, then remove the covers. Back first then the seat. You may find a few zippered compartments on the old covers with foam that you transfer over to the new covers. Then put them on in reverse order. Just takes time and patience to get the new covers on. There maybe some velcro glued to the seat core and back core foam that hold the covers in place.

When taking the old covers off, reach up and feel for it and separate the velcro to take off the old covers. Take pictures before you remove the old covers so you know which bars of the frames the covers attach to. Patience because it can be a PITA. When they are originally covered the foam is covered in plastic and compressed, not so when you recover them. The arms, if like mine, come off by putting them in the upright position, pressing in hard and rotating them to the 9 o'clock position, they should then be able to be pulled loose. Have a very sharp razor knife on hand because you will need to cut holes in the new covers to replace the headrests, arms, handle and any controls for the electric seats.

Spray adhesive is not necessary. If the covers are correct they should fit well. There maybe the velcro strips in the creases where the seat bottom and the seat wings intersect.

Removing the arms: If the arms rotate up parallel to the back then consider that the 12 o'clock position. Put them there and press in very hard. You may need to remove the arms with the seat off the base laying on it's side so you can put your weight into pushing in the arm. Once in the 12 o'clock position, push in and rotate the arm to the 9 o'clock position. Then the arm should lift off. There is a notch at the 9 o'clock position of the attachment point of the arm on the frame of the back. Pushing in compresses a spring that allows the arm to get past the "stop" for the arm. You have to push down hard to compress that spring to get the arm to rotate to the 9 o'clock position. I had to put my weight into it to push the arm in enough to be able to rotate to that 9 o'clock position. As to the arm covers, there should be a zipper in the bottom of the arm. The foam is firm, just takes some muscle to get the new covers on.

Now that I have our new covers in hand, it's easier to see how the installation will go. FlexSteel has some foam pieces already installed in the new covers, so there are no zippered compartments to transfer foam in our seat model. (This may vary according to the style of the seat.) Also, the arm covers don't have zippers but have sort of a "pillow case" fold-over insert that will be hidden at the point the arm attaches to our seats.
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:16 PM   #56
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Thanks for keeping the thread updated. We'll all owe ya one for sure
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