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Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #1
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Replacing the roof

I'm thinking about starting this project next month. I built homes for over 10 years and can't see how this project would be to much different from installing a rubber roof. What are your thoughts as to doing this at home or sending the mh away to have it done.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #2
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I have done three and it is labor intense but very doable. There are two different types of adhesive used on rubber roofs. one can be softened using a heat gun and peeled off. The other requires a sharp knife to cut through the adhesive.
I used a utility knife to cut a grid pattern in the roofing to managable sized pieces.
Having it done I would expect to pay $100. - $125 per foot.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:49 AM   #3
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I replaced our RV roof a few years ago, see the link below. It was not a hard job, it often took 2 people, and many hours of labor. If I do it again finding a suitable roof to work under would be a higher priority. Overall, no regrets and it is now has a better sealed roof than from the factory.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:26 AM   #4
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I have read many of these posts and have a quick comment question. When replacing the wood it seems no one ever uses a marine grade water proof plywood. Why would you not if you have it open already for accsess?
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:19 AM   #5
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I was thinking about using 3/8 inch t&g plywood. I know it will add a little more weight but I think it will be worth it for the extra strength. I was also thinking about taking the foam insulation out and replacing that with regular fiberglass insulation as the fiberglass has a better r value.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:47 AM   #6
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Before starting the reroof project I asked myself the questions about the wood; marine grade, thicker, etc. I settled on exterior grade luan mostly due to cost & weight. Secondly I figured that since the original roof lasted almost 20 years, the second roof would last the same or longer that upgrading the materials was not worth it. I also seriously doubted the RV would be usable or in existance in 20 years. For those reasons the exterior luam was used.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mecfd67 View Post
I have read many of these posts and have a quick comment question. When replacing the wood it seems no one ever uses a marine grade water proof plywood. Why would you not if you have it open already for accsess?
Marine grade plywood does not mean it is waterproof. It is made using douglas fir or western larch, which are more resistant to rot than pine, which is used in most plywoods. The plies are glued using a water resistant adhesive.
Louan is made using hardwood plies, birch or mahogany, which are also resistant to moisture and rot, as well as the waterproof adhesive used.
The stronger of the two for the same thickness and number of plies would be louan because of the use of hardwoods.
Marine grade plywood 1/4" x 4' x 8' made using birch or mahogany is around $100. per sheet, and is used mostly for boat building.
The same size louan is $12. per sheet.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:38 PM   #8
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this project sounds like im going to have to get a few friends to help. Is there anything i should think about upgrading when i have this all apart? I went and talked to the local rv shop and they told me that i should replace all the roof vents as its a good idea since they are 18 years old and are probably going to break when i take them off. Im not sure what kind of insulation is in the roof but if its just the foam board should i take that out and replace it with fiberglass? I want and need to have everything on hand when i start this. Was there anything that you guys ran into and had to go and get/order?
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:05 AM   #9
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To get a good idea of what is involved and the materials needed go to www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-roofing.aspx
They sell kits with most everything needed for replacement.
Many roofing supply companies will have everything needed on hand which would save on shipping charges.
I have never worked on one that needed all the substrate replaced so I can't speak to that or the insulation.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:40 PM   #10
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I would see if someone in your area sprays the foam that expands and you trim flush to the framing. This would be better than fiberglass with no voids. I would also run a conduit from vent to vent in the insulation should you ever need a wiring chase, I personally would use TPO thermally sealed membrane. Have a local roofer provide a 12 ft. X length required membrane.

Some will agree and some will not and I'm OK with that. Just my humble opinion.
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