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Old 04-22-2008, 02:00 AM   #1
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Just wondering if anyone has any experience with replacing side windows. Our 94 Bounder had all the windows replaced years ago due to a recall with the originals. Well we have a fogging issue with the passenger side window. I have purchased the new one but the process of removing the old one seems a little different then just removing the inner screws, taking off the inner trim and pushing the window out.
If anyone has attemted changing one with this situation I sure could use some advise.
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:00 AM   #2
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Just wondering if anyone has any experience with replacing side windows. Our 94 Bounder had all the windows replaced years ago due to a recall with the originals. Well we have a fogging issue with the passenger side window. I have purchased the new one but the process of removing the old one seems a little different then just removing the inner screws, taking off the inner trim and pushing the window out.
If anyone has attemted changing one with this situation I sure could use some advise.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:06 AM   #3
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Steve,
I have not replaced any windows in ours, but we do have two that need replacing. There are several people on the Bounder Yahoo group that have replaced theirs and how you describe the process is how I understand it to be done. You might try asking this question there.
Good luck,
Loren
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:22 AM   #4
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I had to do both font windows. It is not a lot of fun. The "felt" runner has to come out and after that you can get to the rest of it.
Lots of work and not to easy because I was affraid I would break the glass. Use good sealer when you put it back. The frame does come apart, you just have to get to it and it does have to be out of the body.

Have fun
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Old 04-24-2008, 05:10 AM   #5
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I have a 98 Bounder the slider windows are very easy to do--i did mine in 1/2 hr---i have a procedure i wrote if you need it--I have rounded corner slide windows,
rich in Va.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:58 AM   #6
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Thanks everybody so far. I spoke with a service tech at a dealer the other day. He really made me scared as he was familiar with the process from years ago when the problem for replacing the original windows first occured. Told me that he new of only two techs in the area that used to do it and they would probably not want to do anymore. Well I took a good look at the frame on the new window and closely looked at the still installed unit and the thing that was bothering the most was the caulk being used. Found out it isn't really caulk at all but a butyl rubber tape. So when the weather clears up here soon I'll make my attmept at it. Looks pretty straight forward, remove al trim screw on the interior except for the four in the corners, go back outside and work the butyl tape loose carefully with a putty knife, back inside remove last four screws and hopefully push window out. Of course with someone outside to grab it. LOL Then I assume just reverse the process. The butyl tape butting up to the new trim pieces that were installed next to the windows on the re-install seem as though it might be the most difficult challenge so that it trims out nice. I'll keep you in touch with the progress. I f anyone has any other suggestions I'm open for them.
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:37 PM   #7
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Steve, I had to replace the two side windows (driver and passenger) on my '97 Endeavor for the same reason. Unless yours are alot different from mine, there isn't that much to it. Just do it as you described. It's helpful if someone is outside on a laddar to make sure it doesn't fall out (not likely) when you completely remove the trim ring. I used one of the plastic putty knives (Home Depot or Lowes) from the paint department to seperate the outside seal from the body.

After going back in, I used black urathane (calk tube) to seal the edge of the window frame to the coach body. Very light so you can't really see it. This will stop any leaks that might occur from re-using the existing seal on the frame. In your case, you are replacing the entire window. On mine I had to disassemble the frame and replace the large double pane glass section. This raises the difficulty level a good bit. Since you aren't doing that, it shouldn't be very hard.
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:55 PM   #8
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Well we made a valiant attempt at removing the window only to no avail. That project is not as easy as it might look. The Butyl tape that they use has really attached that window frame to the rig. We used a putty knife and razor blade knife around the entire outer frame but it wouldn't budge. Oh maybe a little, but it felt as though the fiberglass was pulling away from the frame.
Made an appointment with a dealer here locally and will let them deal with it. Might cost a bit, but will still probably be less then me wrecking the side. Need the motor replaced on our entry step as well. I'll keep this updated when it's done and let you know how everything turns out. Again thanks for everyone's input.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:43 PM   #9
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Finally window is in and looks good. Just some minor touchup to do around front trim. A little black paint will take care of that. Along with the window, had a new Kwikee step put on. The new step turned out to be about $50.00 more then just the parts needed to repair the old one. Seemed like a no brainer to me. Thanks everyone. Happy Motoring!!!!
Just don't think about gas prices. LOL
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Old 06-20-2008, 06:36 PM   #10
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I read this too late but when I replaced mine it was in Oct and cold. I had to use a heat gun to heat the putty knife and around the window frame in order to break the seal of butyl rubber and free the window. A long process since you have to go slow and carefully so as not to break the skin on the MH.
A good trick to help the rubber removal after the window is out is to make a ball of the old rubber and use it to collect those small stubborn pieces that are hard to remove. A heat gun or hair dryer is a big help.
Butyl rubber is tough stuff but good stuff and a good thing for windows, vents and sealing wires where they enter.
I'm glad to hear you are done with it though
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