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Old 01-10-2014, 09:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post

Here is my question. My coach has two 110V outlets for the fridge, and the Norcold was wired to both. One is Inverter and one is regular 110V. When plugged into shore power both outlets show 110v. My guess, and I want confirmation, is that I connect the Samsung to the inverter outlet. That the inverter itself provides Shore power when avail, and inverted 110V when the inverter is on. Is this correct?

I have a square wave inverter, thus the choice for Samsung.
The "real" reason for having two duplexes at the rear of the Norcold in some coaches is for functionality. One duplex is driven by the Inverter and the other duplex is not.

The fridge is plugged into the Non-Inverter duplex so the Norcold can detect when you sever shore or generator power. It will then automatically switch over to LPG if you have selected that mode of operation. The Ice Maker is plugged into the Inverter driven duplex so it can make ice regardless of whether you have shore power, generator power or Inverter power.

The Samsung fridge is an excellent choice provided that it fits which it sounds like it will easily. They are the ONLY manufacturer that has stated that their fridge will DEFINITELY wok on a MSW Inverter. They are the only company that will warranty the fridge installed in a RV.

Regarding power usage, I have measured the average amount of KW's needed to keep the Samsung running each month. I used a Kill-O-Watt to do my measurements. You can figure on average that the Samsung RF197 will use between 1.81 - 1.83 KwH's per day.

Good luck with your install. The only regret you will have is not doing it earlier.

Oh, BTW, plug the fridge into the INVERTER duplex. The other duplex will not be needed.

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Old 01-10-2014, 11:48 AM   #30
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Thanks Richard,
Fridge is being delivered tomorrow. I have had to modify my cabinet for height only. My space has the rear heater below the fridge, but I can buy another 1.75' of space there and am building a new lowered support. Above the fridge I am just modifying the front of the cabinet. I also plan to seal off the roof vent and the rear vent.

The big unknown is whether I can convince the delivery guys to bring it INSIDE the coach tomorrow. It will require removing the doors and some muscle. I have removed the passenger seat already, and will pull the door off too (tho it should fit with door on, I want to remove any perceived obstacles for these guys). I also have the most important tool, moolah! I plan to ask them to bring it in coach, hear them grumble, then whip out the green backs!

Looking forward to it, I will post some pics.

Chris
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:00 PM   #31
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"akeyzoo" I left my roof vent intact and see no ill affects, but I do live out west. I mounted a couple of aluminum brackets to the top edge of the refer (screwed them into the side wall) in an area where the vent is. Almost all manufacturers frame out the vent opening and its pretty sturdy. Once the refer was installed, I went up on the roof and used some strap aluminum and secured it to the brackets on the refer and the frame of the vent.

Here is a photo of the bracket I made for the top rear of the refer. It screwed into the side and top and I used two sided tape under the bracket.

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Old 01-10-2014, 07:14 PM   #32
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"docj"......I never said they produced the refer for the RVing market........I said it just happens to be more compatible for those who don't have PSW converters.

Secondly, if there were a million 1200 Norcolds sold and someone made a refer to fit exactly in that spot, there might be a market. If the Samsungs were a few inches shorter they would be a direct fit and cheaper then a Norcold replace or rebuild.

IRV2 use to be more respectful, now everyone is a critic just like the other forum. People are just presenting ideas. Read the posts and understand what was written before criticizing everyone who posts. People wonder why the amount of posts keep shrinking. They get tired of all the negative responses.

"akeyzoo" asked a question and others responded. Since many of us have already done the Samsung conversion, we offer tips on what worked for us. I've done one in a Monaco and one in an Itasca Meridian. I've seen what works and what doesn't.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:21 AM   #33
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"docj"......I never said they produced the refer for the RVing market........I said it just happens to be more compatible for those who don't have PSW converters.

Secondly, if there were a million 1200 Norcolds sold and someone made a refer to fit exactly in that spot, there might be a market. If the Samsungs were a few inches shorter they would be a direct fit and cheaper then a Norcold replace or rebuild.

IRV2 use to be more respectful, now everyone is a critic just like the other forum. People are just presenting ideas. Read the posts and understand what was written before criticizing everyone who posts. People wonder why the amount of posts keep shrinking. They get tired of all the negative responses.
I'm sorry if you thought that my response to your comment was disrespectful; it wasn't intended to be so. Just because someone disagrees with a something doesn't make it a negative post.

All I intended to do was point out that Samsung's use of direct current (DC) inside its refrigerators was the natural result of its global marketing strategy and did not necessarily indicate an interest on the company's part in marketing a device that runs directly on DC.

Furthermore, IMHO it is unrealistic to think that a company the size of Samsung would consider this small piece of the RV market to be of interest. Total sales of RVs per year in the US is ~300k units/yr and only a rather small percentage of those have large enough refrigerator space to even consider residential replacement by a unit like a Samsung. Expecting Samsung to alter its marketing strategy to create a unit to do this is, IMO, highly unlikely.

That's not to say that someone else couldn't contract for a device to fit the space and then market it; that's basically why the Splendide washer/dryer is built by an Italian company yet is marketed as a US product. That sort of thing is possible, but it takes investment money and a number of years to bring about.

IMHO forums like this one are better for everyone when people share facts rather than opinions or guesses. Long meandering threads can become much shorter when substantive answers are provided. I follow several forums outside of RVing and on those people are interested in learning from others. I don't think this forum is any different.
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:29 AM   #34
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The Eagle Has Landed!

OK,
So in preparation for delivery first thing saturday morning I removed the passenger seat and the door stopper so that the RV front door would open wide. I also hit up the ATM to help grease the skids. The Guys showed up and were willing to work with me. They removed all of the doors and drawer and gave it a shot. After some moaning we all realized it wasn't going to fit in the front door. The "head knocker" (the large TV box that once housed a 27" CRT but now holds a 40" LCD) was in the way. They couldn't get the fridge in OVER the console but below the head knocker.

AAAACCCCKKKKKK. They had to leave, they have a schedule. I had to decide whether to pull a window or the head knocker. It was an easy decision. I hate the head knocker, it is totally unnecessary with an LCD and takes up an incredible amount of space up front (for me to hit my head on when entering coach (I am 6'3"). This was my excuse to do it and mount my TV further up front. So, many screws/wires and a few bolts later I had that cabinet removed.

Now, My wife is awesome. She and I were then able to get the fridge in ourselves lickety split. I just saved the money I would have had to pay the deliveryman.

In order to "fit" the fridge, I had to lower the deck it sits on about 1.5" (couldn't go more, it houses heater) and cut down the trim above the fridge by quite a bit. As you can see she fits like a glove. Only real negative is that the fridge sits "high" and for shorter folks those eggs on the top shelf will be hard to reach.

Also, I fabricated (welded) some brackets to hold the fridge in the hole.

Super happy with the results!! This fridge is HUGE compared to that norcold 1200.


Everything works great (haven't tested ice maker is all), thanks for everyones help!

I already have modified the old hole where the head knocker was and have fabricated a new LCD mount. I now have to find some matching white vinyl and can finish up the front. The fantastic side effect (necessity) of the fridge install is the removal of the old CRT cabinet. The front of the coach feels SOOOO much more spacious AND looks much more modern! Really looks great up there with the big old box gone, was just housing AIR after I added the LCD. The only real complication was that my TV was about 1/2" too wide and caused a bit of work to make it fit (had to cut down frame that supported heavy TV and modify the cabinet on the right side to gain 1/2". Then some welding and such and a new TV mount was made and was able to suck it way into the hole. Now with a little finish work and she will be good to go!


Chris
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Old 01-13-2014, 12:47 PM   #35
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Here's the only issue we've had with the new refer......our family and friends all want to store stuff in our refer now, especially our two daughters that have their own RV's.

It's not a bad thing though!
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:14 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post
OK, So in preparation for delivery first thing saturday morning I removed the passenger seat and the door stopper so that the RV front door would open wide. I also hit up the ATM to help grease the skids. The Guys showed up and were willing to work with me. They removed all of the doors and drawer and gave it a shot. After some moaning we all realized it wasn't going to fit in the front door. The "head knocker" (the large TV box that once housed a 27" CRT but now holds a 40" LCD) was in the way. They couldn't get the fridge in OVER the console but below the head knocker. AAAACCCCKKKKKK. They had to leave, they have a schedule. I had to decide whether to pull a window or the head knocker. It was an easy decision. I hate the head knocker, it is totally unnecessary with an LCD and takes up an incredible amount of space up front (for me to hit my head on when entering coach (I am 6'3"). This was my excuse to do it and mount my TV further up front. So, many screws/wires and a few bolts later I had that cabinet removed. Now, My wife is awesome. She and I were then able to get the fridge in ourselves lickety split. I just saved the money I would have had to pay the deliveryman. In order to "fit" the fridge, I had to lower the deck it sits on about 1.5" (couldn't go more, it houses heater) and cut down the trim above the fridge by quite a bit. As you can see she fits like a glove. Only real negative is that the fridge sits "high" and for shorter folks those eggs on the top shelf will be hard to reach. Also, I fabricated (welded) some brackets to hold the fridge in the hole. Super happy with the results!! This fridge is HUGE compared to that norcold 1200. Everything works great (haven't tested ice maker is all), thanks for everyones help! I already have modified the old hole where the head knocker was and have fabricated a new LCD mount. I now have to find some matching white vinyl and can finish up the front. The fantastic side effect (necessity) of the fridge install is the removal of the old CRT cabinet. The front of the coach feels SOOOO much more spacious AND looks much more modern! Really looks great up there with the big old box gone, was just housing AIR after I added the LCD. The only real complication was that my TV was about 1/2" too wide and caused a bit of work to make it fit (had to cut down frame that supported heavy TV and modify the cabinet on the right side to gain 1/2". Then some welding and such and a new TV mount was made and was able to suck it way into the hole. Now with a little finish work and she will be good to go! Chris
Akeezoo: I hope you didn't permanently seal off the lower vent. You will need access to the rear of the frig for winterization. Specifically, for draining the Ice maker lines.

The Samsung is a great unit and it appears you did a great install....enjoy!
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:09 AM   #37
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S&J,
Nope, the access panel is still there. As a matter of fact I have not yet decided if I am going to tape of the vents on it yet. Samsung spec'd out space around the fridge for it to breath, and it is a tight fit in the cabinet. We will see. I would tape off that access panel to prevent water intrusion and to prevent drafts in the coach. The new fridge is in there nicely, but it is by no means an airtight seal like the norcold.

Odds are I seal it up but still have the ability to remove the panel.

Chris
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:51 AM   #38
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I sealed up the three air vents on the rear access panel with Gorilla Tape. Remember to remove the rear panel on the Samsung before slipping it into the box. Then replace the panel from the outside and only use the three screws that you can reach to secure the Samsung panel.

I also sealed up the rooftop vent with a thin wood panel from below, installed fiberglass insulation at the top and taped the screen with Gorilla Tape and then replaced the vent cover.

The Samsung receives circulation air from below and it dissipates around the outside of the fridge back into the room.

If you leave either of the vents open, you will have lots of dust and dirt to clean many times throughout the year from road travel and wind.

As it is, you need to get one of those thin long handle brushes to sweep dirt and dust from below the fridge where the air gets sucked into especially if you have animals.

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Old 01-21-2014, 12:08 AM   #39
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akeyzoo........I'm a little anal and I wanted a separate inverter for my Samsung. As I said before, I don't like having my inverter on all the time because all of my TV electronics and several other items are on the inverter system and I didn't want to keep turning things on and off when ever I was driving. My coach has the Magnum 2000 watt MSW inverter. I added another Magnum 600 watt MSW inverter that had a pass thru switch. I've put 8000 miles on the coach running the refer off of the smaller inverter. So......it doesn't take much to keep the Samsungs running. My understanding is that Samsung converts 110v to 12 volts to run their refer and that's why they are so compatible. Maybe Samsung will realize what a gold mine they have and just make a 12 volt model.
Although the Samsung uses DC for the electronics, the compressor is running on 120 v AC. When I installed mine, I took the back off the Samsung to create a mounting bracket, the compressor was labeled 120vac. On my list this year is to replace the MSW with a PSW. Will keep the old one for a back up as almost everything runs thru my inverter.
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Old 01-21-2014, 08:27 AM   #40
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Although the Samsung uses DC for the electronics, the compressor is running on 120 v AC. When I installed mine, I took the back off the Samsung to create a mounting bracket, the compressor was labeled 120vac. On my list this year is to replace the MSW with a PSW. Will keep the old one for a back up as almost everything runs thru my inverter.
I went back to the Samsung FAQ pages and noticed that they have been tweaking their answer to this question a bit. They have removed the words that at one time specifically said that the current was rectified inside the box and have changed the "will work with a modified sine wave inverter" to "may work with a .....". They have always cautioned about using them in MHs but they don't forbid it; there's no statement that doing so will void the warranty.

Here's a link to the FAQs: Samsung samsung 18 cu. ft. French Door Refrigerator: questions, answers, how to, FAQs, tips, advice, answers, buying guide
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:43 AM   #41
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According to both the AJMadison web site and the Samsung web site, the compressor has a 5 year warranty from Samsung.

I purchased my fridge from Warehouse Discount Center in Burbank CA and it came with a 10 year Compressor warranty which is an extra 5 years.

If I get another 8 years service from my Samsung fridge I'll be a very Happy Camper. It's been a wonderful 2 years having the Samsung in our coach versus the NotSoCold POS.

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Old 06-23-2014, 10:58 AM   #42
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Norcold 821 wiring

I have 99 35ft suncruiser with a norcold n821 frig. I removed the pc board to have it tested. Does anyone have a snapshot of how to reconnect the wires. Would require removing the cover off the pc board. Thanks
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