Residential Refrig vs Ammonia Fridge

[theoldwizard]

Possible solution. JC Refrigeration Dutch Aire Amish RV Cooling Units They make a conversion kit for some Dometic and Norcold absorption refrigerators to DC powered compressor refrigerators.

If you are a capable DIYer, you can do it ! If not, schedule it in to their shop.

[Gary RVRoamer]

I'm a residential fridge proponent, but I'm not afraid of absorption fridges either. My last Norcold 1200 worked quite well (ice cream was perfect!) for 10 years before it showed signs of imminent failure. Properly installed, it easily kept zero or less in the freezer and 33-36 in the fridge. I would not have one without an ARP Fride Defend on it for safety reasons, but that's not a big deal. Still like the residential that replaced it better, though. MUCH better.


Your obvious choice is to plan on doing a fridge upgrade. Just figure that into your purchase budget.

[Finance]

We’ve had four different absorption fridges and they all worked just fine. If it’s a concern to you then it’s not that big a deal to swap out a fridge.

[slabman]

Sounds as if the consensus here is some like it, but most are quite leary of the old ammonia-based box. I know I could swap it out for a res. refer, but at my age and the time I would have this rig probably wouldn't warrant doing it. Remember, to do it right, we're talking about another 4 batteries, probably a second or up graded inverter and wiring-maybe some cabinet work? I know I could do all this myself, but not feasible for my situation. I appreciate the candidness of all who commented.....Thanks.

[Gary RVRoamer]

You were talking about buying another coach, so get the residential upgrade done as part of the deal, or at least the same time. You don't have to DIY.

I just looked at your Sig-line and see you have a 2014 Essex. Seems to me anything that would be a trade-up from that model would already have a residential fridge, and surely plenty of batteries and a pure sine inverter sufficient for one.

The 4 or more batteries (400+ AH) in most any larger diesel pusher are sufficient for a residential unless you plan on camping off-grid a lot. And if it doesn't have a pure sine inverter, a second inverter can be added without much difficulty and feed the fridge circuit alone. Or swap out the coach main inverter if you prefer. There are plenty of capable shops that can do the electrical, fridge and cabinet work required - it's not all that much.


I changed mine out even though I knew I was selling the coach a year later.

[slabman]

Thanks, Gary, but I sold the Essex and am downsizing, so it's not a given that it has a res. refer. My experience has perhaps been different than yours. The last two coaches were all-electric, with 8 batteries. In BOTH, I was faced with marginal battery levels in the morning...they barely lasted all night. Installing Lifelines surely did help in that regard...at a steep cost, of course. But then I DID increase those batts to 300 A-H units, giving me a 50% increase to 1200A-H. I know most of these coach builders will add a measly TWO extra batts when going to a residential, but my experience says that's not really enough.

So my math would go something like this. I buy a rig with an ammonia refer. I have them convert it at a cost of what?...about $2,000 for the new refer, $1000 for the battery setup and maybe two grand for the inverter...PLUS labor. SOMEONE's going to pay for that....either the seller or ME-in the purchase price. That adds like 5+ grand to a unit I plan on keeping 3 years, at most! No, I've already lost 50 grand a year on that Essex...ain't gonna do this kind of math again...LOL! FAR better to just find one with the right refer to begin with.

[Gary RVRoamer]

I would expect to use the genset for a couple hours each day on a high end coach, even if not all electric. My American Tradition sucked amps everywhere, but the residential fridge wasn't the only big consumer. I had only 4 x Group 31 Trojan AGMs, about 380 AH altogether. I couldn't get thru a whole night without genset, even with the RV fridge.


That said, I'll agree that if 24 hours without genset or solar is the criteria, you want either an absorption fridge or a lot of battery AH. Maybe 800AH.


Downsizing is going to be a dilemma for you. You want big coach features in a small package. You probably won't even be able to have 4 batteries, let alone 8, and you are going to be short on off-grid power. And probably a lot of other things.

[HighDesert]

I agree that if you get the domestic frig, be sure you have at least 4, 6V batteries, a 2000 watt pure sine inverter.. With our rig, off grid camping, we need to run the gennerator an hour or two morning and evening to keep the batteries up, as they are wet cell. Not sure if AGM batteries would require less run time, or not.

[Nasdaqsam]

Originally Posted by George Schweikle

JC Refrigeration (the Amish Cooling people) has a new compressor type refrigerator that only draws one amp. This is a conversion to your existing fridge, not one designed for a residence. https://jc-refrigeration.com/products/

The unit they sell is good BUT the issue is not just the absorption unit the Norcold frig is just a piss poor design all together. One cooling fin and even JR will tell you, you get about 6" of cooling even with his unit. At the fins it stays cool with the replacement unit all the food under it is warm. I get 32 at the fins 50 2 shelves down. The unit they sell is better than stock but barely.

[mff]

Originally Posted by TonyMac

My 2006 Norcold 1200LRIM stays plenty cold, but not without some help. I have two fans in the top of the chimney pulling hot air up and out, they work off a snap disc thermostat. I also have a fanset inside the fridge blowing cold air down. Frozen ice cream and cold beer for all, on gas or 120vac, with no extra batteries or whatever.

2003 Safri Cheetah, norcold 1200, found the fans not running, reversed wiring & installed new thermostat-with 3 computer fans they still cycle a lot? Anyone relocate the snap disc thermostat to a warmer location?

[rarebear.nm]

I have 3 fans at lower frig cover and 3 more at the top, plus an interior fan. At a 3 level (1-5 range) the freezer stays at 0 and the lower box stays at 35-38.

I just wired them up with a wall mounted switch. If the outside temp is expected above say 75, I just them on. I have the same basic setup in both the 5th and MH. In the MH I added a variable DC motor speed control, mostly to control the sound level.

[MSHappyCampers]

Originally Posted by George Schweikle

JC Refrigeration (the Amish Cooling people) has a new compressor type refrigerator that only draws one amp. This is a conversion to your existing fridge, not one designed for a residence. https://jc-refrigeration.com/products/

X2! Jr. is a good man to do business with. He stands behind his products!