Residential refrigerator help

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by LJowdy

Countryfit, call your inverter company and ask the question.

We certainly agree to disagree. With all due respect, you do what you like to do, but I wanted people reading this thread to get a non-misguided info.

No need to call the inverter manufacturer. I actually redesigned most parts of my electrical system, including upgrading inverter from Xantrex to Magnum, RR, front A/C from interver, and entire solar system...

For your reference, I am attaching the Owner's Manual from Magnum for my unit MS2812. Page 9 has the install schematics.

[LJowdy]

Well good, I hope you now feel better

[Dennis4809]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Most early MH are still equipped with MSW inverters, so a 1000 watt standalone PSW inverter would suppy better power to a residental fridge anyway. Electric motors are 30% more effecent on PSW power.

Mount the inverter near the batteries with fused cables, and run a cord to the fridge.

Let your 100 amp charger keep the batteries up.

Exactly what I did but one reason is that the outlet behind the refer isn’t powered off the existing inverter. Bought a 1200 watt PSW with auto transfer. Powers only the refer. If needed, I can turn on the older Xantrex for power to other outlets.

[Larrikin]

And the residential will not catch fire and burn your bus to the ground. We ripped ours (Norcold 1200) out and replaced with a Samsung. We are half way thru the class action settlement from Norcold, which will total about $1200 over 4 years. We are not boondockers though. It runs well powered by a 2000 watt inverter and the house batteries which charge on the road by the main engine alternator, or the genset if we are running that to cool the rig in summer heat.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by Dennis4809

Exactly what I did but one reason is that the outlet behind the refer isn’t powered off the existing inverter. Bought a 1200 watt PSW with auto transfer. Powers only the refer. If needed, I can turn on the older Xantrex for power to other outlets.

The OE outlet behind the refer is fed from main panel. What I did was disconnecting that wires (capped them and tucked aside) and connecting new wires from an outlet right next to the refer above the dinning table. Refer uses a little power (about 0.6A at 120v when running), no impact to the interior circuit.

[Scottybdivin]

There are some newer RV panels that have a built-in sub panel all-in-one. Functions like a main and a sub in one piece. Still the inverter output has to go to the sub panel side. Maybe that what LJowdy is referring to as a split bus bar.

I was looking at one of them for my previous 5th wheel. It would fit in the same space as the OEM Main panel.

[signet63]

Originally Posted by twinboat

And while driving down the road, the engines charging system will keep up with the house battery power being used by the inverter that runs the fridge.

When you get to your site all will be charged.

Not true for all RV's. Mine does not charge the house batteries from the alternator. I would like to upgrade my alternator to do this, but from the factory the alternator does not charge the house batteries.

Thanks,

Bill

[BRex45]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

We certainly agree to disagree. With all due respect, you do what you like to do, but I wanted people reading this thread to get a non-misguided info.

No need to call the inverter manufacturer. I actually redesigned most parts of my electrical system, including upgrading inverter from Xantrex to Magnum, RR, front A/C from interver, and entire solar system...

For your reference, I am attaching the Owner's Manual from Magnum for my unit MS2812. Page 9 has the install schematics.

Thanks for attaching that PDF doc.

That Magnum diagram is one of the clearest schematics I have looked at.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by signet63

Not true for all RV's. Mine does not charge the house batteries from the alternator. I would like to upgrade my alternator to do this, but from the factory the alternator does not charge the house batteries.

Thanks,

Bill

You do not need an upgrade, you need a repair.

The alternator is not what charges the house battery, there is an isolator or isolation solenoid that does that.

While the engine is running, push and hold the boost switch. If the house voltage doesn't move up to the chassis voltage in a few minutes, the solenoid is probably bad.

Find it by having someone switching it on and off while listening for it. Then take a picture of it and the surrounding components and post it.
From that, we can ID whether you have an isolator or isolation solenoid.

[barmcd]

Originally Posted by CountryFit

We certainly agree to disagree. With all due respect, you do what you like to do, but I wanted people reading this thread to get a non-misguided info.

No need to call the inverter manufacturer. I actually redesigned most parts of my electrical system, including upgrading inverter from Xantrex to Magnum, RR, front A/C from interver, and entire solar system...

For your reference, I am attaching the Owner's Manual from Magnum for my unit MS2812. Page 9 has the install schematics.

I learned a heck of a lot when I replaced my Trace inverter with the Magnum 2012 PSW. It's nice when you actually know how your electrical/battery/charging/inverting systems work together. The help I got from members here was invaluable.

[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by barmcd

I learned a heck of a lot when I replaced my Trace inverter with the Magnum 2012 PSW. It's nice when you actually know how your electrical/battery/charging/inverting systems work together. The help I got from members here was invaluable.

Yup, we are all learning new things from others, and sharing what we know better. It's an enriching process for all of us. I love this place .

[signet63]

Originally Posted by twinboat

You do not need an upgrade, you need a repair.

The alternator is not what charges the house battery, there is an isolator or isolation solenoid that does that.

While the engine is running, push and hold the boost switch. If the house voltage doesn't move up to the chassis voltage in a few minutes, the solenoid is probably bad.

Find it by having someone switching it on and off while listening for it. Then take a picture of it and the surrounding components and post it.
From that, we can ID whether you have an isolator or isolation solenoid.

Hello Twinboat,

I think I just figured out how to add attachments. I think this is my battery boost solenoid. I think I am hijacking this post. Should I start a new thread? Thanks for any information you can provide. From what I am understanding, if i replace this solenoid, my house batteries may start charging from the alternator? That is if this solenoid is bad.

Bill

[pxr177]

Our old RV style fridge died. WE replaced it with a small residential fridge and a small freezer. Now we have the best of both worlds. A small refrigerator cabinet with the same capacity as the old one, and a larger freezer, still small enough to fit in a corner. Both are energy efficient so the two use less power than the old one.
Our boondocking is limited to the odd stay at a Walmart Hotel.
When we go south, we don't use the freezer until we get there. For the fridge we freeze several bottles of water and store on the shelves. We also use a small Ice chest for a few drinks and sandwiches while we are traveling. This reduces opening the fridge door. We find the fridge will stay cool for 48 hours if you seldom open it.
Small side benefit. We pay for propane, but not electric so there is a very small saving there.

[Mudflat]

Everything you need to know is in my article, “Upgrading to a Residential Refrigerator” which is published on This Old Campsite campground recommendations reviews RV Shows RV Articles. Check it out. My contact information is at the end of every article so please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.