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09-12-2018, 07:43 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
Correct , check your owners manual for torque spec , or have a close look at the lug nuts , it might be stamped into them .
E-350's had it there.
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140 foot pounds
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09-12-2018, 08:01 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
Yup, we would stick a porta power between the spring and wheel and force them off.
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Some brands of class 3-5 trucks back in the '40s and '50s had a threaded hole in the wheel. Take the lugs off, run a bolt in to push the wheel loose. I guess that cost too much.
If the tire is inflated, a big hammer to the outside sidewall will shake it loose. But just a little anti-seize on the hub will let it slide right off.
BTW, in the late '60s/early '70s Ford 350s had a roll pin in the hub, and a hole in each wheel to index them so the inner valve stem would line up with hand hole of outer...
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09-12-2018, 09:03 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo
Some brands of class 3-5 trucks back in the '40s and '50s had a threaded hole in the wheel. Take the lugs off, run a bolt in to push the wheel loose. I guess that cost too much.
If the tire is inflated, a big hammer to the outside sidewall will shake it loose. But just a little anti-seize on the hub will let it slide right off.
BTW, in the late '60s/early '70s Ford 350s had a roll pin in the hub, and a hole in each wheel to index them so the inner valve stem would line up with hand hole of outer...
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We always tried the hammer first. Salt/sand and snow fighting trucks tend to rust.
And the GM light truck wheels had the indexed wheels. Every other hole was tapered in or out.
Seen plenty of wheels repairing trucks for 35 years.
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09-20-2018, 09:10 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,152
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Unless specified in the owners manual there should be no lube or anti-seize put on wheel studs or nuts. The wheel nuts with the built on washer take one drop of oil between the nut and washer.
When I lived in Michigan and worked on heavy trucks and lighter vehicle if we had a wheel that would not come off with the nuts off we would reinstall the nuts several threads from contacting the wheel then drive around the parking lot for a bit. This usually loosened the wheel. We did the same basic thing with a double disc pressure plate that would not allow adjustment.
One thing that gets missed a lot is the cleaning of the mating surfaces of the wheels, brake drums, etc. This is the major reason wheels loosen up after installation.
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09-21-2018, 10:52 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman;4411735[B
]Unless specified in the owners manual there should be no lube or anti-seize put on wheel studs or nuts[/B]. The wheel nuts with the built on washer take one drop of oil between the nut and washer.
When I lived in Michigan and worked on heavy trucks and lighter vehicle if we had a wheel that would not come off with the nuts off we would reinstall the nuts several threads from contacting the wheel then drive around the parking lot for a bit. This usually loosened the wheel. We did the same basic thing with a double disc pressure plate that would not allow adjustment.
One thing that gets missed a lot is the cleaning of the mating surfaces of the wheels, brake drums, etc. This is the major reason wheels loosen up after installation.
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Well Sir,
Been using anti-seize on all my lug nuts on everything I've ever owned, for well over 50 years and pretty much have never lost a single wheel and tire. And, I've also never, ever re-torqued any of my lug nuts after any service I've done. Again, no wheels and tires lost in that amount of time. Whether or not my practice is correct or not, it's worked and, there's been no issues emanating from it. And, I've not had any "tough to remove" lug nuts, on any car/truck/motorhome/motorcycle etc.
On my present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, the lugs are tightened to 450 ft.lbs. I used a KD, 3/4 drive click type torque wrench for that. And, whenever it comes time to remove those lug nuts, they're still on seriously tight.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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09-21-2018, 12:37 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 4,350
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If Class-C, just one outer set of lug nuts torque at 140Ft Lbs; class A, you might need to specifiy what you have and what size tires/ wheels, and them I will defer to someone else :-) ?
__________________
(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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