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Old 09-27-2010, 05:18 PM   #1
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Roof Sealing

I want to reseal the roof end caps and side seams at the gutter and around vents ect. Planing to use Eternabond and Eternaprim. Any hints or suggestions? I guess 2" and 4" wide white tape. I also don't know what if anything to do with the window frames. It looks like they sandwich the walls with a gasket to seal them. Should I add some silicon to the exterior to help seal them?
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:33 PM   #2
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Used Eternabond on all seams and joints on our roof. Used 4 inch and took my time cutting and fitting before peeling off backing. Clean and clean again then stick down. One stick deal, no taking back up. I rounded cut all corners of Eternabond. Go to Youtube and watch the installation videos.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:42 AM   #3
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Hi Pete & Linda,
On the long runs for EternaBond, consider dropping a chalk line where one edge of the EternaBond will go. This gives a really good line for you to use when applying the EternaBond. I did my roof and after 2 years so far so good. I use only the 4" wide tape.

On the windows, if you add the silicone, add it only to the top and maybe an inch or so on each side down from the top. Leave the sides and bottom alone (for draining).
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:58 AM   #4
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The material sandwiched behind the outside window frames is Butyl tape.
I would suggest you not use silicone caulk. Dicor is a better product for this application. It comes in two formulations. Self leveling and non self leveling. There may be other products out there but stay away from silicone, you will regret it. The caulking for windows should go only across the top and each side no more than 2".
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:37 PM   #5
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az why will I regret silicon, just curious. Do you know what colors Dicor comes in?
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:33 AM   #6
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az why will I regret silicon, just curious. Do you know what colors Dicor comes in?
Silicone even after it is cured collects crud and yellows. If you ever have to remove it its almost imposible without distroying the finish. Acetone is about the only thing that will remove the residue. The only colors that I am aware of are grey and white but there could others. When caulking the windows only a very small bead is reqiured.

If you decide to re-do the the butyl tape around the window frame PM me and I will walk you through it.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:13 AM   #7
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Thanks, have done some with silicone (small bead), but will try the dicor. Why would you not want to caulk the front edge for when you are driving in a rain? Why would you ever want to replace the butyl tape, does it deteriorate over time, if so how long?
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:31 PM   #8
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Thanks, have done some with silicone (small bead), but will try the dicor. Why would you not want to caulk the front edge for when you are driving in a rain? Why would you ever want to replace the butyl tape, does it deteriorate over time, if so how long?
The butyl tape actually does the sealing not the exterior caulking. Dont guess it would hurt anythin if you caulked the front edge, just have never see it done.
If for any reason a window has to be removed the butyl should be replaced. It will deteriorate over time but could not give you a timeframe. I have seen coaches that are less than 5 years old that have delamination of the sidewalls due to water intrusion at the windows. I have also seen 20 year old ones that have never had a problem. One good practice would be to check all the screws for tightness, repairing a delaminated wall is very expensive.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:41 PM   #9
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If the windows are leaking remove them. It's not hard. Either use butyl tape or polyurethane to rebead them. 3m has a product but can't remember the number that will last longer than you will.
Silicon is the worst thing to use.
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:53 PM   #10
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No leaks, just trying to stay ahead of things. Thanks
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Old 09-30-2010, 10:12 PM   #11
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I just pulled the passenger side window on my 99 pace a few weeks ago to replace some fogged glass.

There was NO butyl tape used by Fleetwood.
They used a closed cel foam gasket that stuck to the window but not the coach. Once the inside trim was off, the window nearly fell out of the coach, no sticky butyl tape here.

I used a peel and stick closed cel foam from menards to replaqce it, it was 3/16 x 3/8" and it is going to seal fine and last forever.

I hate silicone! Fleetwood had caulked the top and the front edge of that front pass side window, I did the same, with an acrylic caulk containing only a small amount of silicone.

The other windows on my PA are as described above, caulked on top and maybe 2" down the front and back. But that front window was caulked all the way down the front, only 2" down the back.

I wouldn't mess with your windows unless they are leaking or the existing caulk is failing or coming loose. And if I did mess with them, I'd completely r&r the window and do it right.
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