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04-08-2016, 11:19 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 12
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Rubber Roof Paint and Prep.
I need to paint the roof on my rubberized roof. The problem is that the roof rubber wraps around to the sides about 5 inches, which got beautifully painted about 3 years ago...but, where they painted the rubber roof portion that wraps to the sides has serious peeling issues. Should I just paint the white roof over the painted portion that wraps to the sides? Should I use some sort of a paint stripper on that paint, and if so what can you use on the rubberized roof? I am planning on using the 2 stage Dicor roof coating. Will the stage 1 of the paint prep remove that peeling paint. I am just not sure where to go with this. Any help would be great.
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04-08-2016, 05:14 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 80
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04-08-2016, 08:36 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjboltfan
I need to paint the roof on my rubberized roof. The problem is that the roof rubber wraps around to the sides about 5 inches, which got beautifully painted about 3 years ago...but, where they painted the rubber roof portion that wraps to the sides has serious peeling issues. Should I just paint the white roof over the painted portion that wraps to the sides? Should I use some sort of a paint stripper on that paint, and if so what can you use on the rubberized roof? I am planning on using the 2 stage Dicor roof coating. Will the stage 1 of the paint prep remove that peeling paint. I am just not sure where to go with this. Any help would be great.
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sanjboltfan,
Well Sir, not to be too "authorative" here but, who'm ever decided to "Paint" that turn-down of the rubber roof, made a big mistake. There are only a few coatings on the market that will stick to those roofs. And, it sounds like the one that was picked at the time, is not one of them. Now, I've done every bit of what you're thinking of doing and, with the same product, the Dicor 2-part system.
It's quite a bit of work, even without the removal of the "non sticking" paint (that shouldn't have been put on a rubber roof in the first place). I'm not a specialist in paints and, potential products in removal but, maybe if I were you, the first thing I'd do is, get some chips off that radius and, take them to a paint supplies like, Frazees, Sherwin Williams, maybe Home Depot or Lowes, and have them analyze just what kind of paint it is and, what might be a good paint remover for it, and yet not do any damage to your rubber roof.
Now, once all that old paint is off, you've got a bit of work ahead of you. We did it all in one day. It was a long and laborious day. We started at about 07:00 in the morning and, finished up about 4:00 or 5:00 that same day.
1. A thorough washing with a good soap and water and, a good stiff brush.
2. A thorough rinsing.
3. Then apply the step one prep material for the Dicor. It's supposed to be applied with a something like a garden sprayer for a real good coating.
4. Now, you're supposed to "pressure wash" that off.
One side note, that prep material is pretty strong so, a bit of advice here, if your coach has nice paint or, nicely waxed gel coat sides, then have helper with a garden hose keep rinsing the side walls while you pressure wash the top off. That will lessen the potential damage to the sidewalls finish.
5. Once that top is completely dry from pressure washing, it's time to apply the first coat of Dicor. It's a serious bodied paint. About like painting with runny toothpaste. It really won't run on you when you cruise over the radius's of the sides. You can tape off surfaces that you don't want any Dicor to stick to if you like. I was just careful when I applied mine. I used a nice, thick 4" brush when I was detailing in close to things. For the field, I used whatever Dicor called for in a roller or, maybe a medium nap roller.
6. When that first coat is dry, on goes the second coat. What helped us in doing all this in one day was the fact that is 95 degrees out when we were doing all this and, we were doing it in the direct sun, NOT FUN!
But, in the end, when it was all said and done, it by far, was waaaaaay worth the effort. We kept that coach for another five years and then, sold it to our daughter and son-in-law. They kept if for two years and sold it. That roof looked the same 7 years after it was done, as when I did it that hot summer day. Dicor is a great product. But, care must be taken to follow all the prep steps, as directed. Good luck.
Scott
Here's what it looked like when we were done!
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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04-08-2016, 08:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Horse Town USA, CA.
Posts: 3,781
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I am going to coat the roof on my 99 Dolphin this spring. The only thing I have and will use is Liquid EPDM. I used it on my Avion 5th wheel over 6 years ago and it still looks like the day after it was finished. It is 1 coat application, mix in the catalyst put it on and your finished no waiting for a second coat. Since you have a Fleetwood make sure you read the note about needing the primer first.
Liquid Roof, Solution For RV Roof Leaks Repair - EPDM Coatings
__________________
1999 35 ft. Dolphin 5350, F53, Banks System, 5 Stars Tune, Air Lift Air Bags, Koni Shocks, Blue OX TruCenter, TigerTrak track bars F&R, Roadmaster 1-3/4" rear auxiliary sway bar, 2004 F450 Lariat Pickup 6.0 Diesel Crew Cab DRW, 4X4, GVWR 15,000, Front GAWR 6,000, Rear GAWR 11,000, GCWR 26,000,1994 36ft Avion 5er, GVWR 13,700, 2,740 Pin Weight.
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07-23-2016, 02:23 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1
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How many gallons?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
sanjboltfan,
Well Sir, not to be too "authorative" here but, who'm ever decided to "Paint" that turn-down of the rubber roof, made a big mistake. There are only a few coatings on the market that will stick to those roofs. And, it sounds like the one that was picked at the time, is not one of them. Now, I've done every bit of what you're thinking of doing and, with the same product, the Dicor 2-part system.
It's quite a bit of work, even without the removal of the "non sticking" paint (that shouldn't have been put on a rubber roof in the first place). I'm not a specialist in paints and, potential products in removal but, maybe if I were you, the first thing I'd do is, get some chips off that radius and, take them to a paint supplies like, Frazees, Sherwin Williams, maybe Home Depot or Lowes, and have them analyze just what kind of paint it is and, what might be a good paint remover for it, and yet not do any damage to your rubber roof.
Now, once all that old paint is off, you've got a bit of work ahead of you. We did it all in one day. It was a long and laborious day. We started at about 07:00 in the morning and, finished up about 4:00 or 5:00 that same day.
1. A thorough washing with a good soap and water and, a good stiff brush.
2. A thorough rinsing.
3. Then apply the step one prep material for the Dicor. It's supposed to be applied with a something like a garden sprayer for a real good coating.
4. Now, you're supposed to "pressure wash" that off.
One side note, that prep material is pretty strong so, a bit of advice here, if your coach has nice paint or, nicely waxed gel coat sides, then have helper with a garden hose keep rinsing the side walls while you pressure wash the top off. That will lessen the potential damage to the sidewalls finish.
5. Once that top is completely dry from pressure washing, it's time to apply the first coat of Dicor. It's a serious bodied paint. About like painting with runny toothpaste. It really won't run on you when you cruise over the radius's of the sides. You can tape off surfaces that you don't want any Dicor to stick to if you like. I was just careful when I applied mine. I used a nice, thick 4" brush when I was detailing in close to things. For the field, I used whatever Dicor called for in a roller or, maybe a medium nap roller.
6. When that first coat is dry, on goes the second coat. What helped us in doing all this in one day was the fact that is 95 degrees out when we were doing all this and, we were doing it in the direct sun, NOT FUN!
But, in the end, when it was all said and done, it by far, was waaaaaay worth the effort. We kept that coach for another five years and then, sold it to our daughter and son-in-law. They kept if for two years and sold it. That roof looked the same 7 years after it was done, as when I did it that hot summer day. Dicor is a great product. But, care must be taken to follow all the prep steps, as directed. Good luck.
Scott
Here's what it looked like when we were done!
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This is great information! I have the same size coach. How many gallons did you use?
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07-23-2016, 02:51 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruggsfam4
This is great information! I have the same size coach. How many gallons did you use?
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It's been quite some time since my son and I did that roof. If I recall, the recommended amount for that size roof was four gallons. I thought, Huh? But, I bought four, just to be safe. Well, after the second coat, which was required, I figured that was enough. I took back, 2 gallons of it. So, in reality, if done correctly, 2 gallons will be all that's needed.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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