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Old 08-09-2015, 10:51 AM   #15
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You should've at 60 hz and volts should not fall below 104 if it does the gen will shut down and the same for the hz it also has a high and low limits. Check your governor for adjustment.


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Old 08-09-2015, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deny View Post
Just get in the habit of turning off the A/C before you run the Microwave. No good reason to cause issues with a good Generator. Issues with Generators are expensive.
Deny

That is the perfect solution to the OP's perceived problem.
IMO common sense electrical management, both 120VAC and 12VDC, is important and necessary in any RV.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:02 PM   #17
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Take it in, but the stumbling and struggling you describe are classic symptoms of a fuel issue.

Using less power now will just move the repairs down the road.
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:30 PM   #18
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Controll board is bad, fuel pump is easily checked by taking hose off carb and hitting prime, does fuel flow steadily out of hose?
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:50 PM   #19
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I had a similar issue with my 5500 onan in my old raptor toyhauler. Under heavy load it would get hot and die. I tried a lot of things but no luck. I pulled the fuel line off carb to check pump flow and it was good. I finally decided the pump was getting hot and not pumping good. I replaced it with a air tech pump that's a replacement for onan pump at a 1/3 of the cost. This fixed my issue and the genny never sounded better. My genny had 250hrs on it when I replaced the pump.
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:10 PM   #20
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Deny

That is the perfect solution to the OP's perceived problem.
IMO common sense electrical management, both 120VAC and 12VDC, is important and necessary in any RV.
Mel
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Not a perceived problem, that Onan 4000 is able to run A/C and microwave at the same time and you should be able to do it as I have done it many times. His Onan shuts off with loads of less than 30 amps, loads over 30 amps should trip breaker before shutting generator down. What does the trouble code indicate? I go ahead and replace fuel pump and filter, probably needs to be done as the generator is a 2010. If that does not fix problem, you have at least narrowed it down.
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:19 PM   #21
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If you would like an idea of what the amp draw is with A/C running on my RV, a 2012 Fleetwood Jamboree it is 16.7 amps. A/C and microwave is 26.7 amps. A/C and coffee maker is 22.1 amps. A/C, toaster, and electric hot water is 25.7 amps. All these measurements taken with refrigerator on electric, inverter running, and step lights on.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:30 PM   #22
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Thanks again! I will look into the fuel pump and see if there is anything wrong there. It may be 2010, but it's only got around 157 hours on it. Not much I know, but it has been used regularly just not a lot. As far as heat issues, it will do this at anytime. Whether I've been running it on the road for an hour or two, or I just started it up. Doesn't matter what engine temp.

As far as the measured frequency, should it be going as high as 150 or 180hz? That seemed unusual to me, but I am no expert. Just smart enough what NOT to do to get zapped.

I haven't found any trouble codes, then again I may not be looking at the right time or in the right place. I'll research that, too.
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:41 PM   #23
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The freq should stay at 60hz.


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Old 08-09-2015, 09:21 PM   #24
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As the amp draw goes up, the genset's governor opens the throttle to maintain the constant RPMs (usually 3600) needed to maintain proper voltage and frequency. If the governor can't get the engine to speed up under load, the symptoms you described will occur. The usual cause for this is fuel starvation, e.g. a dirty fuel filter or a hair crack in the genset fuel line that sucks air under load. A dirty air filter can have similar symptoms, though, and so can poorly performing spark plugs. Anything that hurts engine performance.

Exceeding the genset amp capacity doesn't do this - it trips the genset own breaker instead.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:28 PM   #25
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That's what I thought, but wasn't sure if that without a load it might be different.

Milasman, Thanks for the examples of amp draws. According to your usage I "should" be able to run both with out tripping a breaker and should certainly be able to run one or the other or even both without the generator wanting to die. It might run harder, but it shouldn't die.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:20 AM   #26
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You said you have the extended warranty; I would suggest invoking that soon. Those frequency variations can do major damage to your appliances.


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Old 08-11-2015, 06:19 PM   #27
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OK, so took some more measurements when hooked to shore power. Only way I could use the clamp on ammeter to do so. Switched off converter, switched fridge to gas, batteries fully on solar.

Started off with 0.05 amps as a baseline. Switched fridge back to ac power, reading showed ~3amps, switched back to gas. Ran microwave, 12.5 amps, turned off. Turned on A/C fan only, 3.5 amps. Turned A/C compressor on started at 12.5 worked up to just under15 amps and held, voltage ~116.5vac. Ran both A/C and mw voltage dropped to 113 and amps were 26.5.

This is off a 20 amp circuit (again, only way I could use the clamp-on meter) so that would explain the voltage drop and higher current draw. I do have a 30amp receptacle, but no way to use it with ammeter.

So I don't think the A/C is going bad, thank goodness, only need one thing wrong at a time! I have made an appointment with local Cummins service center, for both a tune up, check the fuel pump/filter, and control board. Hopefully, I can put that extended warranty to good use.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:29 AM   #28
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Any updates?
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