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Old 12-15-2014, 09:07 PM   #15
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Thanks for the feedback. All of the heaters have been ceramic but other than that they don't have much in common. Different brands, different outlets. Same problem. All of them have refused to turn on (no power, no lights even) after not being used for a few hours. They've been plugged in and unplugged before a failure.

My big concern is do I have a bigger problem to worry about concerning my electrical system? This last one to die was the second to go after getting a surge guard installed, I mistakenly thought that would solve the problem.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:00 PM   #16
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Can you run a heavy duty 12/3 extension cord from the likes of Home Depot from the power pedestal to the heater? If it runs great without issue, there indeed is something in the RV that is the culprit. If the heater stops, it seems there is something wrong with the power pedestal in the park itself. Your surge guard should already warn of reverse polarity issues. You can buy one of those inexpensive wiring testers such as this one to confirm just there aren't any wiring issues in the coach itself. Might even be a bad shore power cord. http://www.amazon.com/GE-50957-GFCI-.../dp/B002LZTKIU

A meter would also indicate if you have a voltage issue. (Too high?).

When first moving into my home several years ago, we found that the prior owner had wired a wall heater for 220volt but had installed a 110v heater. Luckily the heater had a safety system that would cause the heater to stop running after a few minutes and then reset. We figured it out and corrected the issue.

There are several good electricians on this board that may well weigh in on this thread.
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Old 12-16-2014, 03:18 AM   #17
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My Lasko Ceramic element heater just died also. worked last year and start of this year. I went in and turned it on and dead. I plugged the lamp into the outlet and got light. Brought into the S&B and same no power. Waiting to hear if still under warranty.
I have been looking at this at one of the big box stores on sale from $139 to $79 Product Features

  • Heats up an extra large room
  • Six wrapped infrared quartz elements
  • Three Heat Settings: High 1500 watt Low 750 watt ECO-maintains a constant 68
  • Digital control panel for temperature, time and power
  • Full function remote control
  • Cool to the Touch Wood Cabinet
  • 1-year limited warranty
  • Lifetime washable air filter
  • ETL certification
  • Caster wheels allow for easy portability
  • Child Safety Lock, Overheat Safety, and tip-over safety shut-offTim
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Old 12-16-2014, 12:05 PM   #18
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There are only two things that I can think of as possible causes of your problem.

1. You have low voltage in your system. If your 10 heaters have failed when your MH was plugged into a variety of different campgrounds, it's unlikely that it's the campground's problem. It must be in your MH. Low voltage is caused by loose connections or overloaded circuits. Your heaters do not consume voltage or amperage, they consume power, which is the combination of the two. If the voltage drops, the heater will insist on making up for the low voltage by increasing the current it draws. More current means blowouts. So, you need to know what the voltage is at the plug.
2. Many appliances do not like modified sine wave inverters, and fail eventually when plugged into them. It's possible you need to change your inverter to a sine wave inverter. Having said that, I have a MSW inverter and don't have problems with my small space heaters.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:34 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Full.Monte View Post
There are only two things that I can think of as possible causes of your problem.

1. You have low voltage in your system. If your 10 heaters have failed when your MH was plugged into a variety of different campgrounds, it's unlikely that it's the campground's problem. It must be in your MH. Low voltage is caused by loose connections or overloaded circuits. Your heaters do not consume voltage or amperage, they consume power, which is the combination of the two. If the voltage drops, the heater will insist on making up for the low voltage by increasing the current it draws. More current means blowouts. So, you need to know what the voltage is at the plug.
2. Many appliances do not like modified sine wave inverters, and fail eventually when plugged into them. It's possible you need to change your inverter to a sine wave inverter. Having said that, I have a MSW inverter and don't have problems with my small space heaters.
1. You really do not understand heaters. Unlike motors that can suffer from low voltage a heater cannot do anything to make up for low voltage. It just puts out less heat. If there is a fan in it the fan motor might suffer but the heating element will not care.

2. Heaters do not care about the wave form of the supplied power. Maybe the electronic control does but snap action heat switches and heating elements do not. Probably the electronic control does not as modern power supply designs are pretty immune.
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by spritz View Post
My Lasko Ceramic element heater just died also. worked last year and start of this year. I went in and turned it on and dead. I plugged the lamp into the outlet and got light. Brought into the S&B and same no power. Waiting to hear if still under warranty.
I have been looking at this at one of the big box stores on sale from $139 to $79 Product Features

  • Heats up an extra large room
  • Six wrapped infrared quartz elements
  • Three Heat Settings: High 1500 watt Low 750 watt ECO-maintains a constant 68
  • Digital control panel for temperature, time and power
  • Full function remote control
  • Cool to the Touch Wood Cabinet
  • 1-year limited warranty
  • Lifetime washable air filter
  • ETL certification
  • Caster wheels allow for easy portability
  • Child Safety Lock, Overheat Safety, and tip-over safety shut-offTim

THese are junk. I know a couple people that have had them. This is what you want Sunheat Electric Portable 750 Watt Golden Oak Infrared Heater - Overstock™ Shopping - Great Deals on Heaters

We have one in the Babies room. He is 1 plays around it all the time. More expensive but worth every penny. That heater you are looking at is knock off of the original sunheat heater.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:40 PM   #21
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1. You really do not understand heaters. Unlike motors that can suffer from low voltage a heater cannot do anything to make up for low voltage. It just puts out less heat. If there is a fan in it the fan motor might suffer but the heating element will not care.

Heaters are a big resistor designed to give off heat, but they're not very smart, they don't know how to get around Ohm's Law.

As the voltage drops, the current goes up proportionately. A typical 1500 watt heater running on 120 volts will draw 12.5 amps, but if the voltage drops to say 95 volts the 1,500 watt heater will be drawing 15.8 amps, more than 25% more than it was designed to handle.

Measure the voltage you're getting and see if it's in the 118 to 123 volt range.
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:08 PM   #22
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The controls on most heaters are digital and have a circuit board. They die if you put msw interter power into the unit. Dont ask how I know. They work just fine on park 50 amp they will fry if you put power from the inverter in for just a minute or so. Thats my story and Im sticking to it.......
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:13 PM   #23
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Post a picture of where you are sitting the heaters. Could be a lack of air flow that is causing them to die.


Definitely need to measure the ac voltage. Measure the outlet next to the one where the heater is plugged in and do the measurement with the heater running full tilt.
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:31 PM   #24
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Only if the inverter is too small.

Space heaters draw around 12 amps on high, Though the outlets in an RV are offically approved for 15 amps, often they start to fail right around 10 amps.. This is why I have some special outlets (15/20 type) that are fed with 12ga wire bent around a screw and tightened down, each from its very own circuit breaker (no other outlets, nothing daisy chained)

That is another problem with RV wireing

Breaker box=====Outlet1====outlet2=====outlet3

Outlet 1 has to carry all the load for all 3 outlets

That is the RV side of things.
Next post: the heater side.
Breaker box=====Outlet1====outlet2=====outlet3

This is how all circuits are wired, trailer, home, work - every outlet you see. The outlets don't pass the load through them, but the wires are tied together on the sides of the outlets and the juice flows through the wires. If the outlet was wired using the push-in holes, that is a poor connection and will take out the offending outlet over time. ALWAYS wire an outlet as YXM does and wrap the wire under the screw and tighten it down. It takes a little longer to wire, but won't break down over time.

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Old 12-17-2014, 06:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by becks View Post
Some will not work on inverter circuit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Only if the inverter is too small.
wa8yxm
I agree that an electric heater will not work on a "too small" inverter.
However, many electric heaters, (and a lot of other appliances), with "digital controls", or with "a digital display", will not work very long (if at all), on "MSW inverter power"...(no matter how large the inverter).

Riover
Get you a $15-$20 electric space heater...(I've been I using 2 from Walmart for 14+ years)... but, they've seldom been used on inverter power.
BTW, any $15 1500 watt 120VAC electric space heater produces exactly the same amount of heat, (5115 BTU), as a $300 1500 watt 120VAC electric space heater...(don't be fooled by advertising HYPE).
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:58 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Murf2u View Post
Heaters are a big resistor designed to give off heat, but they're not very smart, they don't know how to get around Ohm's Law.

As the voltage drops, the current goes up proportionately. A typical 1500 watt heater running on 120 volts will draw 12.5 amps, but if the voltage drops to say 95 volts the 1,500 watt heater will be drawing 15.8 amps, more than 25% more than it was designed to handle.

Measure the voltage you're getting and see if it's in the 118 to 123 volt range.
Please explain the physics of how the resistor value changes with reduced voltage. (FWIW I do know.) The basic equation is Power = Voltage squared divided by the resistance. Drop the voltage and the power goes down.

FWIW I'm betting on failed thermal switches. BTDT but I usually do unsafe things like short them out. It depends on the application. OTOH running a cool down cycle will get past that problem.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:20 PM   #27
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In regulated supplies or output controlled devices a lower voltage will result in higher current input.

The device tries to maintain constant output so decreasing input voltage requires increase in current to maintain the same power (watts) output.

A resistive heater is usually just a low value resistor with a switch to control power to resistor.

Lower voltage with same resistor is lower amps drawn and watts heat generated.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:29 PM   #28
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Well to late bought it tonight, Time will tell. I'm not using it as the single heat source, I will use it along with the furnace. It does run the fan for 90 seconds after I shut it off.
Happy Holidays, Tim
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