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Old 10-05-2016, 12:03 PM   #43
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I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and get a new pump installed. I would recommend not putting any more gas in the tank, it will just make it harder to drop the tank to replace the pump. The pump doesn't know it there is 1 gallon or 50 gallons in the tank, as long as the pick up is in the gas, it will pump it out. I don't know about your particular setup, but many times the pump pick up also has a screen/filter on it that can cause issues... and lastly, it sounds like you run the tank down to pretty low levels before refueling. This can shorten the life of the fuel pump as the pump is cooled to an extent by the fuel that surrounds it. Running fuel levels low will result in a hotter pump.
Talk to the CG owner/manager and see if you can have someone do work at the site. and then see who they would recommend. The folks in Maine seem to be friendly and helpful. My neighbor recently dropped his tank, replaced the pump and had it back in in under 4 hours.

One more thought - I think you said you had Good Sam---- check out the Good Sam Volunteering Directory to see if you can get some local guidance from a fellow RV'er in the area you are now at. Here's the link http://www.goodsamclub.com/community...directory.aspx

Good Luck !
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:50 PM   #44
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Don't know if it has been mentioned, but look and see if you have a fuel pump relay and change that, cheap and easy, at least on a ford. I do not know where it is.
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:07 AM   #45
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why are you all waste time and money. A fuel pressure gauge test will tell you everything that you need to know. If fuel pressure is below specs its time for a change. Us only an AC DELCO pump otherwise you will be doing the job again in about a year. GM systems will not let the engine start if fuel pressure is even a 1/2 lb under specs. Do a fuel pressure test otherwise you are only throwing money and time and fixing nothing
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:18 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PanJH View Post
I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and get a new pump installed. I would recommend not putting any more gas in the tank, it will just make it harder to drop the tank to replace the pump. The pump doesn't know it there is 1 gallon or 50 gallons in the tank, as long as the pick up is in the gas, it will pump it out. I don't know about your particular setup, but many times the pump pick up also has a screen/filter on it that can cause issues... and lastly, it sounds like you run the tank down to pretty low levels before refueling. This can shorten the life of the fuel pump as the pump is cooled to an extent by the fuel that surrounds it. Running fuel levels low will result in a hotter pump.
Talk to the CG owner/manager and see if you can have someone do work at the site. and then see who they would recommend. The folks in Maine seem to be friendly and helpful. My neighbor recently dropped his tank, replaced the pump and had it back in in under 4 hours.

One more thought - I think you said you had Good Sam---- check out the Good Sam Volunteering Directory to see if you can get some local guidance from a fellow RV'er in the area you are now at. Here's the link Volunteering Directory

Good Luck !
Thank you for the advice. I reached out to a Good Sams volunteer for any recommendations. I have also emailed multiple potential mobile mechanics in the area. I will make calls on Tuesday, if I don't find what I need as it is a holiday weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFN View Post
Don't know if it has been mentioned, but look and see if you have a fuel pump relay and change that, cheap and easy, at least on a ford. I do not know where it is.
I am considering ordering one and giving it a try since I can get one for about $20. I have attached a picture, as there are 4 choices when I open my dog house that look like relays. Two are grey, so I think those can be eliminated since the replacement part is black, but there are two black choices and I don't know which one it might be.

They have different colored wires, so I am hoping we can identify one of them as the right one, but I am not sure what I am really looking at here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by badturks5 View Post
why are you all waste time and money. A fuel pressure gauge test will tell you everything that you need to know. If fuel pressure is below specs its time for a change. Us only an AC DELCO pump otherwise you will be doing the job again in about a year. GM systems will not let the engine start if fuel pressure is even a 1/2 lb under specs. Do a fuel pressure test otherwise you are only throwing money and time and fixing nothing
I'd love to just check the fuel pressure, but I don't own a kit for doing this. Usually, I'd just have one delivered to the campground, but this specific campground only accepts USPS packages that fit in a regular sized mailbox. This has already caused me to make a 7.5-mile bike trip, which I am capable of, but it's really pushing it for me to do that again.

Chances are, Amazon would deliver a slip and I'd have to trek to the post office again, which I don't want to do.

Thank you for all of your help.....still dealing with the issue....here's an update.

We have to make a decision as to what we are going to do shortly because we are going to be out of time come 11am a week from Sunday when the campground closes for the year.

I managed to put another 12 gallons of gas in the tank and estimate we have close to 20 gallons in there right now, but it still won't start. We are sitting at enough of an angle to the back passenger side that it may still not be enough gas to get to the pump, but I doubt it.

My father mentioned trying to put gas in the carburetor, which I have done before with a car, but I don't even know if that's safe with an RV.

At this point, I will try just about anything to get us running and down the road. If we can get to our next campground (330) miles away, we can buy 28 more days before we have to start paying for camping. Plus, they are open year-round, so we wouldn't have to be in a hurry to leave, if we can't get things figured out.

I wish we had enough cash just to have it towed to a shop and have it worked on, but we are only going to have about $1,000 come middle of this week, maybe a little more. I have seen prices for getting a fuel pump fixed all the way up to about $2,000, so it has me very worried. We can get it towed to as how for free through Good Sam, so that's helpful.

Anyway, if anybody has any tricks or things I can try this week that might work, I am open to any ideas. I really don't want to have to send it to a shop, as we have no where to stay and two dogs we have to figure out what to do with, too.

If we have to get a hotel, that will eat into the cash we have and we have no car, so it will have to be within walking distance of where we are or the shop. Usually, we could just get a cabin at the campground, but they are winterizing them and there's no guarantee one will be available later this week and I was told it's very unlikely.

I guess I am hoping for a miracle here, but if anybody has any ideas, please chime in.

Thank you,

Benjamin Ehinger
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:04 PM   #47
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I think the fastest and cheapest way to get on the road again is to put an in-line electric fuel pump in (as was suggested before), once you have changed the filter.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:07 PM   #48
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I think the fastest and cheapest way to get on the road again is to put an in-line electric fuel pump in (as was suggested before), once you have changed the filter.
I would love to do this, but I have absolutely no idea how to do this or if I even have the right tools for the job.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:25 AM   #49
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I will give you a trick that I have used oh GM engines for a long time. The year is 1999 so that should be a multi point injection system with a throttle body and a mass airflow sensor. While cranking the engine over spray a flammable carb spray into the throttle body. Crack open the throttle while doing this. If the fuel psi is to low to start the engine the carb spray should be enough to fire up the engine and it should fun fine the rest of the day. If it does then you need a fuel pump and a fuel psi regulator. If it will not even try to fire the engine then it is not a fuel problem it is an electrical problem in the ignition system. Watch for backfires through the throttle body if you don't spray enough or if you spray too much. Good luck keep us posted
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #50
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I will give you a trick that I have used oh GM engines for a long time. The year is 1999 so that should be a multi point injection system with a throttle body and a mass airflow sensor. While cranking the engine over spray a flammable carb spray into the throttle body. Crack open the throttle while doing this. If the fuel psi is to low to start the engine the carb spray should be enough to fire up the engine and it should fun fine the rest of the day. If it does then you need a fuel pump and a fuel psi regulator. If it will not even try to fire the engine then it is not a fuel problem it is an electrical problem in the ignition system. Watch for backfires through the throttle body if you don't spray enough or if you spray too much. Good luck keep us posted
Okay. I just tried this with carb spray and nothing. Tried starter spray in the air intake and nothing. I have attached a picture of where I put the spray to ensure I did it right, but I am about 95% sure I did this correct.

I also had my wife try to start it while I listened to the gas tank and pounded on it with a mallet. This worked for us before, so I thought I'd try again. Not only did it not start, but I cannot hear the fuel pump working at all.
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:18 PM   #51
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I just noticed that when I turn the key to crank it, I don't get any guage lights at all. Usually, the gauges would move and I'd get my auto park light, along with the park and seat belt lights, but I get nothing.

The battery was pretty much dead when we were towed into the campground, I am guessing from constantly trying to start it and the hazard lights.

I put a battery maintainer on it and it charged back up, from what I can tell. Before that, it wouldn't even try to crank.

I have also changed the fuses under the steering column, even if they were good.
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Old 10-12-2016, 02:54 PM   #52
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An easy way to check and see if your getting a spark is take off one of the spark plug wires put a Phillip headed screw driver into it. Then put the screw driver close to engine about 1/4 inches away while wife cranks engine look for spark.
PS BE CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH METAL AS YOU WILL GET A SHOCK IF YOUR GETTING SPARK!!! then go from there as fuel issue.
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:16 AM   #53
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It sound like a spark problem, pull a wire from a spark plug. Be careful when removing the wire, twist and pull at the same time. Now take a screwdriver and insert it into the open end of the plug wire that you just took off. Place the wire/screwdriver about 1/4 inch from a good clean metal that is attached to the engine. That way you know it will have a good ground path. Crank the engine and look for spark, should be a crisp blue spark. Reply back with your results
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:19 AM   #54
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do my test after you charge the battery can not test with a weak battery redo the fuel test also with a charged battery
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:30 AM   #55
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Okay, here's the update.

We had Good Sam's tow us to a shop in New Hampshire to have our issue fixed, so the tow was free.

After living in their yard for three days/two nights, they were able to get to work on the RV and found out it was the ignition switch causing the issue. About $1,000 later, we were back on the road.

They didn't have it done until nearly dark and we don't like driving in the dark, so we only drove about 5 minutes to overnight at a Walmart.

The next day, we filled the gas tank and headed out on a 315 mile drive to the closest campground (open year-round) in our membership. The thought being, if something else happened, at least we could stay there as long as needed.

We stopped for gas two more times along the way to make sure we had plenty of gas and rolled into the campground around 5pm. Unfortunately, we were too late to get propane on arrival. Anyway, we got into a good, level spot with full hook ups.

Our plan was just to pull over to the propane and get it in the morning. However, that didn't happen. Instead, the RV now won't start again.

The new issue:

I have full dash lights and the regular ding from the keys. However, I get absolutely nothing from the engine, no click, no sounds, no nothing. Just the dash lights and the ding from the keys.

I suspect we not only had a bad ignition switch, but also another problem and maybe even another problem.

I don't know what we are going to do as we are both losing confidence in this RV and sinking more money into something we didn't spend a ton of cash on to begin with doesn't seem wise.

We may be looking to sell it and go the truck/travel trailer route, which we had already planned on doing next spring anyway. Not having a car makes this a bit more difficult on us, but I am sure we can figure something out.

Thank you for all your help through this difficult time,

Benjamin and Christina Ehinger
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:09 PM   #56
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Okay. After spending some time trying to diagnose this new issue, I am hoping for some help from someone much smarter than I.

When I turn the key, all my dash lights are super bright and my gauges move into place. The battery has been on a maintainer/charger since we got here yesterday, so I am ruling out a dead battery.

When I open the dog house and listen, I can hear what sounds like a pumping sound and I can also hear a faint winding type of sound when I turn the key.

My father seems to think it's the starter, which I am not sure where that might be located. I have attached a picture of the only thing I can find that looks like a starter (based on the picture of new ones online). Please verify if this is indeed the starter, if not, someone please tell me where to look.

My father also said I may be able to use a screw driver to cross the poles of the starter. How do I go about doing this, if it's even possible?

Thank you,

Benjamin Ehinger
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