RV Leveling blocks

[BigRedLancer]

Does anyone have a design to make leveling blocks out of wood? The plastic blocks are available to purchase but are expensive. I was thinking of using 2X8 lumber to construct stackable blocks that will fully support either single or dual wheels. During my last trip the driver's side rear was 1" off the ground. I didn't like the idea as the jacks are only rated for 3000 lbs.

[BigRedLancer]

Does anyone have a design to make leveling blocks out of wood? The plastic blocks are available to purchase but are expensive. I was thinking of using 2X8 lumber to construct stackable blocks that will fully support either single or dual wheels. During my last trip the driver's side rear was 1" off the ground. I didn't like the idea as the jacks are only rated for 3000 lbs.

[Petro]

BigRedLancer;

First of all I don't believe it is a good practice to raise the rear wheels off the ground. You lose the braking effect of park & emergency brake. I always try to position my coach so if a wheel or wheels have to come off the ground it is the front only. IMHO

I made my jack pads out of 3/4" plastic panels 12" square. I beveled the top edges and drilled 2 holes to accommodate some poly rope handles for carrying and pulling out after with the awning hook. They have worked good for several years.

A friend of mine cut 3/4" pressure treated 12" square panels and fastened 4 together for a 3" block. He used screw eyes to accommodate his awning hook for removal. This worked well for him.

Good luck with your project.

Don

[Route 66]

I have seen all shapes, sizes and designs of blocks.

Most folks just cut up some lumber as you mention and place them as needed.

Be sure the entire tread surface of the tire is supported by the block.

[NLOVNIT]

You don't need to buy those expensive plastic blocks. PT lumber works just fine. We carry 8 2x10x12 PT lumber pieces that Home Depot cut. DH bevelled the edges with his router (makes it easier grabbing them out of the bay - no spinters) & they give us enough options for levelling.

Keep the back wheels on the ground. Not only is the braking there, but, in our case, the majority of our weight is back there. I wouldn't want the front jacks & wheels trying to steady & hold us in place on an unlevel site. If I can't get level without the back wheels coming up, I ask to be moved to another site.

L-

[Blue Ribbon]

No pressure treated - it weighs 3 to 4 times what standard pine does.

We carry a large selection of blocks, because I really like the MH level. I use 2 X 10's cut to 9 1/2 inch long and I screw and glue a piece of 1/2" plywood to each blocks. This is in case the block cracks, you don't have to throw it away.

For under the wheels, I also use 2 X 10, about 18" long. When I need extra height, either under the wheel or jack, I use two pieces of 1/2" ply, that I have spaced 2 X 3s on edge, about 2 1/2 inch apart. This gives me a full 4" block, at 1/2 the weight of a couple 2 X 10s stacked together.

I've painted them all with a couple coats of Rustolum (first coat thinned about 25% so it will dive into the wood). Put a screw eye in the edge of th blocks, and a 2' tether made out of 3/16" nylon line, so I don't have to lean or crawl under the MH to get the blocks out.

I will NEVER level a MH with a wheel off the ground. If I need to go that high, I go up higher, put blocks under the wheels, let the jacks down, then jack up again to get the MH level. This way, the wheel is still on something solic.

[Clay L]

I am in the minority here I guess, but I use the plastic leggo leveling blocks. They are light, store easily and compactly. I have four bags (40 blocks) and on a couple of occasions have used most of them.

They can break and I have had to replace about ten of them in six years.

[TropiCal-Tex]

I agree with Clay. I bought 2 "bags" of the leggo blocks when my rig was new, and use them regularly on both gravel and hard surfaces. I have never broken one, they don't slip when stacked, and go back into the bag so they don't get my storage cabinet dirty. I hated storing and hauling the heavier wood blocks in my previous rigs. The leggo blocks are well worth the money if you ask me.

[Cousin Ed]

I carry 4 blocks 2x10s with 1/2 inch plywood glued and screwed to keep them from splitting. I painted them yellow and drilled a hole in the center of each so I can move them with the awnning rod. So far over 70,000 miles and 7 years same blocks and I never needed more than 4.
I got the idea on this forum years ago!