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Old 06-24-2008, 02:14 PM   #15
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50 amp service will produce 120V between each hot leg and the neutral. But it will produce 240V between the two hot legs without the neutral. I would check your neutral circuit.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:22 PM   #16
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JerryForwood, How would I go about doing that. Details would be great.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:23 PM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mike:
RV port has no power source in it I'm hooked to house outlet when powering up RV. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Mike, Have you plugged in the 120V cord into a GFCI outlet in the house. If so the condition you are describing should not be allowed to develop. If your GFCI is bad it may not trip so test it first. If the GFCI trips then the sleuthing gets easier.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:41 PM   #18
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If your MH has a 50 amp plug then I assume that you are using an adapter for the 120 volt power feed, or do you have an actual 50 amp receptacle? It's possible that you have a defective adapter. Is it homemade? or is it a factory made adapter? A pinched ballast wire could cause the voltage that you are getting, but if everything is properly grounded, it would just short out, and not cause a shock hazard. Check between the ground and neutral on your cord end that the RV plugs into, you should have 0 volts (On the 50 amp receptacle it is the top and bottom slots in the center of the receptacle. The ones to the left and right are the hots.) You should have 120 volts from either of the center slots to either of the side slots.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:47 PM   #19
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Hillbilly2 has the right idea.
However, the first thing I would do is as suggested earlier, get the contractor back. The problem sounds to be in an improper installation.
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:57 PM   #20
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Jerry,

The RV Port does not have electric to it,I'm bring the electric from the house outlet.
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:20 PM   #21
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DRIVER,
I quess you should win the Grand Prize as after reading your post I went outside and snapped the ground fault out then back on and a miracle happened no power between the coach and RV PORT.
Thanks for all the help from all posting and now I will have more $ for the fruits of travel FUEL!!!!!
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:36 PM   #22
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Have the ground fault breaker replaced, apparently it opened the neutral like it was supposed to, but not the hots. You are lucky it didn't fry something. There may also be a recall on the breaker.
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:51 PM   #23
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I will have a new one put in A S A P.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:10 PM   #24
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mikeeg:
DRIVER,
I quess you should win the Grand Prize as after reading your post I went outside and snapped the ground fault out then back on and a miracle happened no power between the coach and RV PORT.
Thanks for all the help from all posting and now I will have more $ for the fruits of travel FUEL!!!!! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Down the line from that GFI is there a flourecent light that was left on? Tripping the GFI will shut down many flourecents and they will not restart. If there is such a lamp your problem could resurface when you turn it back on especially if the GFI is defective.

I almost lost my kid brother from this situation. He was barefoot and touched the metal box of his garage light switch and got juiced with close to 200 volts. It really grabbed him and he could not let go. Thankfully when he dropped to his knees it pulled his hand from the box and broke the circuit.

We checked and there was almost 200 volts between the metal cover on the light switch and the metal threshhold on the floor. This stymied us at first as this was a 110 volt light circuit so we started pulling one item at a time from the circuit and the current went away when we pulled the second light fixture. When we opened it up we found a leaking balast the was shorted to gound. We also found where workmen doing some air conditioning work bent the conduit feeding the circuit pulling it from its clamp breaking the ground which is why the breaker did not trip from the short.

When we repaired the ground the breaker now tripped when the light was turned on. When we replaced the balast the breaker no longer tripped.

A shorted flourecent light balast on a circuit with a bad ground can generate a deadly voltages.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:03 AM   #25
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This GFI I'm talking about is on the house power not in the RV and I have only standard lights in My coach. I still don't understand it but it is fixed and I only have to replace the GFI to be safe.
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Old 06-25-2008, 06:41 AM   #26
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The GFCI may be wired backwards (hot and neutral reversed) - it opened the neutral instead of the hot. It also sounds like the neutral and ground may be reversed, so the power in the neutral was actually going to ground and thus the metal in the house.

One of those plug in outlet testers ($3.95 or less at Walmart or hardware store) will show if the wiring is incorrect.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:25 PM   #27
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GFI's are designed to open both the hot AND the neutral, thats the way I can tell if a dead circuit has a GFI in it, if the GFI is tripped, then there will be no continuity between the ground and the neutral, I know then to look for a hidden GFI receptacle.
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Old 06-27-2008, 12:20 PM   #28
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My licened electric guy was here this AM: and tested GFI and all electric cords with no problems, he and I are for a lose on what caused the 200 volt bleed. I was thinking about the possiablity of the transfer switch sticking and letting 120 volts from the power cord and another 80 volts from the inverteing power of the batteries giving me the 200 volts.
I just don't know. I will be keeping and eye on it but I think it is possible never to do it again. But I'm still be open for all thoughs.
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