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bamaboy473 · 05-21-2018, 07:59 AM

I'm ordering a utility trailer in order to replace the tow dolly we've used. It will be tandem axle and total weight of trailer and car will be 6,500 pounds, so no problem with our hitch rating (10,000)

These trailers generally come with electric drum brakes, but my trailer experience is mostly with boat trailers, and they use surge brake systems.

I'll be towing with a 40' American Eagle with air brakes.

My questions are:
a. are surge brakes as important as I think they are when going downhill? We don't go to the Rockies, but often to the western NC area.

b. the surge brake actuator is a bolt-on unit. Question is whether electric brakes use standard hydraulic hoses from tongue back, or is it a Big Deal to change one to the other type? (I don't know whether I can spec surge brakes from the supplier...)

c. if using electric brakes, does the 7-pin connector become the only device, or will I need an electric controller, too?

LJowdy · 05-21-2018, 09:00 AM

Both systems are effective the benefit of electric brakes is you can manually control them from an Electric Brake Controller (answered your last question) The other advantage is you can back up without having to lock out the surge brake assembly.

I've heard of people going down steep grades and when they reach the bottom, the brakes on their trailer are smokin' red hot as the weight of the trailer has pushed the mechanism forward thus applying the brakes when not necessary but, I've never actually seen this happen, only heard about it

bamaboy473 · 05-21-2018, 09:04 AM

Good point about a sensitive surge brake. They're supposed to activate when there's a sudden push, and supposed to dis-engage when there's constant force.

What is the process of installing a brake controller then? That would eliminate wondering about it IF your controller (you) know what you're doing.

Skip426 · 05-21-2018, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

b. the surge brake actuator is a bolt-on unit. Question is whether electric brakes use standard hydraulic hoses from tongue back, or is it a Big Deal to change one to the other type? (I don't know whether I can spec surge brakes from the supplier...)
c. if using electric brakes, does the 7-pin connector become the only device, or will I need an electric controller, too?

Electric trailer drum brakes are totally electric, ( no hoses) activated from a dash board controller , that powers magnets, on a lever inside the drum. The lever pushes the shoes against the drum.
Important to purchase a full proportional electric trailer brake controller , because some coaches activate the brake lights when the exhaust brake/engine brake is in use and the wrong controller can overheat the trailer brakes.
There are no common parts between surge and electric trailer brakes .
JMHO: For trailer control in a, bad trailer sway situation , electric trailer brakes have a definite advantage.

bamaboy473 · 05-21-2018, 09:20 AM

....so if my coach doesn't have a controller, is it a big deal to run wire to the dashboard (no) but is there any calibrating to do? If so, how so?

LJowdy · 05-21-2018, 09:28 AM

You may want to check with other owners of your model of coach as it may already be wired. An easy way to tell is if you have a 7 pin plug in the back of your coach. ""USUALLY" the wire going to the electric brake controller is blue but don't put money on that. Brake controller wires are usually bundled up somewhere around your steering column and the firewall.

Scarab0088 · 05-21-2018, 12:27 PM

Here's what is going on inside the brakes on an electric set-up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6SegtYgXs4

This style needs a controller at the driver's seat. And unlike surge brakes, the "gain" needs to be set by the driver on the controller for the weight of the trailer (like loaded to unloaded) or it will lock the brakes when unloaded.

We are not affiliated.

Ray,IN · 05-21-2018, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bamaboy473

....so if my coach doesn't have a controller, is it a big deal to run wire to the dashboard (no) but is there any calibrating to do? If so, how so?

The instruction sheet included with the controller has all the information needed for adjusting the controller to fit your equipment.
Use #10 wire to run the length of your MH from controller to trailer plug, otherwise you may experience voltage drop. #10 wire may not fit into the trailer wire lug, so squeeze in all you can and trim off excess closely so it won't interfere/touch with adjoining lugs/connections.

wa8yxm · 05-21-2018, 12:42 PM

It seems you understand Surge brakes well.

Electric brakes do not use hydraulic

Instead WIRES carry electrical power to magnets. when the magnet engages he "Grabs" the inside face of the brake drum (Not the band where the brake shoes brake. but the flat face) the friction moves them in the direction of travel and they operate a cam which replaces the brake slave (Wheel) Cylinders applying the brakes.

NOTE. if you have a TT and when unhooking it starts rollind down hill there is a tempetation to grab the safety cahin to stop it. Bad choice

Grab ehe break away cable. THat will stop it FAST.