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Old 01-13-2016, 09:42 PM   #15
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My wife got a 1/4 inch bolt on her car tire. They used a patch plug. That little screw is an easy fix.
The thing that made me ask about this was the location of the puncture. There are some places that will not even attempt to patch it if the puncture is on that outer edge. I've run into that twice in 3 years.

I would be real happy if I knew how thick the rubber was in that area. It would be nice to know there was a good amount of real rubber between the inner layers of the tire and where the tip of the screw was.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:03 PM   #16
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Truck tire plug patches are the best repair. They are made in several different plug sizes to fully fill holes in tread and carcass.

Leaving the hole in the tread open is not an option. This open (upplugged) hole allows water to enter the steel belts, which quickly causes them to rust, failure is not far behind. Leave the screw where it is until repairs are made. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=77
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:37 PM   #17
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...
Leaving the hole in the tread open is not an option. This open (upplugged) hole allows water to enter the steel belts, which quickly causes them to rust, failure is not far behind. Leave the screw where it is until repairs are made. ...[/URL]
That is an issue I am concerned about. Part of my thoughts on why I was interested in the thickness of the tire at the puncture point was precisely aimed at wondering if it penetrated the steel belts.

Since there isn't any air leaking I assume that means the tire would have to be punctured to use such a plug-patch. I'm wondering if that opens up another can of worms because of its location?
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:10 AM   #18
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The puncture hole is actually drilled out when the repair is made, a special bit is used to make the hole. The big round patch portion is glued to the inside of the tire after it is buffed and prepped while the shank portion is glued/sealed to protect the piles from moisture. The exposed shank is normally cut off just below the thread level.

The repair process costs more that a plain patch or plug but there is also more work time associated with making what is considered a permanent repair.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:45 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Truck tire plug patches are the best repair. They are made in several different plug sizes to fully fill holes in tread and carcass.

Leaving the hole in the tread open is not an option. This open (upplugged) hole allows water to enter the steel belts, which quickly causes them to rust, failure is not far behind. Leave the screw where it is until repairs are made. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=77
Thanks for stepping in I was trying to post a pic last night but my phone would not let me.

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Old 01-14-2016, 06:48 AM   #20
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The thing that made me ask about this was the location of the puncture. There are some places that will not even attempt to patch it if the puncture is on that outer edge. I've run into that twice in 3 years.

I would be real happy if I knew how thick the rubber was in that area. It would be nice to know there was a good amount of real rubber between the inner layers of the tire and where the tip of the screw was.

You are fine as long as its not in the side wall. IT is close but it depends on what the inside looks like. You might eve get lucky and its just a short screw not all the way through.
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Old 01-14-2016, 08:25 AM   #21
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I had one on the outside wheel of my dually pickup. I drove over to Discount Tire and they pulled the nail for me. It was about 3/8 long and didn't penetrate through the carcass of the tire.


I also had a similar one in my Corvette and it did go through the tire. Luckily, they were able to patch it. It was close to the sidewall, but there was just enough room to make the repair. Those run flat performance tires cost as much as a motor home tire.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:04 AM   #22
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That is an issue I am concerned about. Part of my thoughts on why I was interested in the thickness of the tire at the puncture point was precisely aimed at wondering if it penetrated the steel belts.

Since there isn't any air leaking I assume that means the tire would have to be punctured to use such a plug-patch. I'm wondering if that opens up another can of worms because of its location?
Not really; A plug/patch performs 2 functions, the patch part make a permanent seal with the inner liner (the part which hold air pressure), the plug part permanently fills and seals the hole through the rest of the tires.
The actual down-side is; whenever any tire is repaired the mfgr of that tire disavows any further claim relating to longevity, weight rating, speed rating, etc.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:24 AM   #23
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Pull out the screw. Got leak? Patch from inside. Got no leak? How long is the screw? If judged to be short and not have penetrated to far, done. If in doubt, have a tire shop break it down and check it.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:55 PM   #24
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You'll have a better idea of potential damage once you pull the screw out and see how long it is. Maybe the manufacturer could tell you how thick the wear rubber is in that area.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:52 PM   #25
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The wear pattern on your outside edge looks odd to me.....

Maybe positive camber (I don't know if that is ever a good thing) but not sure you can even adjust camber on an RV, or too much "toe in" causing scrubbing, or possibly under inflated.

Maybe nothing at all, but seems like it would be worth a conversation with your tire people.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:26 PM   #26
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If your tire says "regroovable" on it it is very thick under the tread area.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:42 AM   #27
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There are assorted things to think about when repairing a tire.

High pressure tires What is high is open to discussion but in my case it's tripil digit, v/s low pressure (less than 30) psi. Many feel repair is not practical. DO NOT PLUG, you may patch (Proper internal flat patch) if it's a drive tirek, DO NOT repair Steering tires,, Replace or move to drive and repair.

Patches.. Flat patches that go INSIDE the tire good. Any patch or plug which goes THROUGH the tire, bad. I would not use the one shown above with teh spine that went through the tire, I'd use a proper INTERNAL patch. Same as I use on my Bicycle only tougher.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:57 AM   #28
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I would pull the metal out and if it does not leak, run it. If it does leak, patch the tire from the inside and run it. Only if the metal goes in at a sharp angle, and involves the sidewall, would I replace the tire. Note: plugging the tire is a short term option to get rolling. Then put a patch on the inside the first chance you get. All the best.
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