Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > MH-General Discussions & Problems
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-31-2015, 06:14 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,068
Screws in Fiberglass Roof - Best Way to go?

I have to move my sat dish for an upgrade. I'm using the same base but the the new configuration causes it to lay down on top of my AC shrouded. I have a fiberglass roof.

The base plate was anchored down with 24 #12X3/4" metal screws. What I don't recall is whether there was any pre-drilling.

So...I'm looking for opinions on when I re-install the base.

1. Is it a good idea or even necessary to pre drill pilot holes? I've got both metal and self-drilling screws to choose from.

2. Is there a good reason to go with 1" screws instead of 3/4" or is that over kill?
__________________

__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 08-31-2015, 09:05 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
okie143's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
I have to move my sat dish for an upgrade. I'm using the same base but the the new configuration causes it to lay down on top of my AC shrouded. I have a fiberglass roof.

The base plate was anchored down with 24 #12X3/4" metal screws. What I don't recall is whether there was any pre-drilling.

So...I'm looking for opinions on when I re-install the base.

1. Is it a good idea or even necessary to pre drill pilot holes? I've got both metal and self-drilling screws to choose from.

2. Is there a good reason to go with 1" screws instead of 3/4" or is that over kill?
I took my ladder off my roof and it was put down with 8 #10x3/4" self drilling screws. They weren't stainless steel and they were rusted up, even thou Dicor covered them and they were water tight. I think it must be condensation from the screw.

My sat access hole has a plate on it and it has the same screws holding it down.

So I would use self drilling screws as long as you can ensure you are hitting the ceiling joists.
__________________

__________________
Retired Army, Disabled Veteran
Wife, me, and 2006 Coachman Cross Country 372DS makes three, Demco Kar Kaddy SS
okie143 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2015, 08:46 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,492
No on self drilling screws!

They drill hole for sheet metal and hole may be a bit large for tight fit.

Yes on pre drill but be careful to insure just through depth.

Wrap the bit with tape to make a depth stop.

Do use stainless steel and buy from a screw supplier or a mom and pop well stocked hardware store where they can provide a proper grade stainless screw as there are a few, with the proper head ( take your plate or measure the hole) and have them either measure the inner diameter of screw to determine drill size or better look up the proper drill size for use in fiberglass.

A good vendor can provide that.

To large of hole the screw has less grip and strength and too small it may crack.
__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
TQ60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2015, 12:05 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,068
Thanks so far!

I think the #10 size screws (roughly 3/16") are a pretty good fit for the base holes but 1/4" might be better. I will look into the stainless steel option.

I'm thinking that 1" shouldn't be too deep to get into anything below the roof. Does anyone think differently?

I figure I will tap up the drill bit and subtract about 1/8" to the screw tip has wood to bite into. Over thinking? LOL Being anal retentive sucks!
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2015, 12:55 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,492
You are fine as questions are better than mistakes.

Get an extra bit or just use a coat hanger for wire and drill very lightly until either you go through or depth of screw whichever is LESS.

If you go through at 1/2 inch then active or full threaded part of screw should be that long at that point...remember the thickness of your bracket.

Take wire to probe through hole to confirm clearance and make sure nothing there.

Also consider making a pad or nest with decor or true rtv.

Test mount your device with only 2 screws to make sure all functions correct and fit.

Next drill all holes and then remove and clean roof and bottom of device.

Set back in place and pencil mark outline.

Place ducor or rtv or material of choice around all holes and the edges with a couple spots in the center.

Place device and insert all screws and tighten in star pattern until snug.

Wipe off oozing sealant and cover all screws and verify edges sealed.

The sealer keeps pad solid and acts like glue.

Again verify all good as once cured it will be solid mount.
__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
TQ60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2015, 03:35 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Sky_Boss's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,068
Thanks Tony!

One thing I saw the installer do when it was first installed was to coat each screw with Dicor and put a dab of Dicor in each mounting plate hole before screwing them down.

After that he covered all screw heads with Dicor. I did notice that he did NOT seal the edges of the feet of the mounting plates. However, that seems to make sense because it would be difficult to coat all edges since some of them are obscured by the mounting plate.

I looked up my roof specs on my coach and they use 9mm (a tad over 1/3") decking under the standard BriteTEK that came with my coach. It was upgraded to fiberglass. Assuming the fiberglass is 1/8" I think a 3/4" screw is plenty long enough and will ensure I don't hit anything else below.
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 DSDP 4320, Spartan MM IFS, 2013 CR-V, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1, Samsung 197R Refer.
Sky_Boss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2015, 08:16 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,492
If you have wood under the glass then be certian you seal well as wood is a sponge and will soak in any possible moisture or vapor.

Packing holes should help.

To seal the edges by placing a bead of sealer on roof first thus the pencil line on the edge.

You make sure that any opening in part that rests on roof has sealer around the opening so water cannot wick under it to rust.

Using your finger or a stick to smooth out the sealer that oozes out should be all that is needed for caulking.
__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
TQ60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2015, 06:55 PM   #8
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 9,275
Sky Boss.....You saw your installer do what I like to do, squirt either a good amount of Dicor or silicone into the hole first. This is just another layer of insulation in case water finds it's way around the screws.

Monaco really reinforced this for me when I changed out the running lights on my Diplomat. Monaco drilled about a 1/2" hole behind the running lights for the wiring to come through. Before they installed the light they squeezed a ball of silicone, about 1" in size into the hole and then installed the light. You literally had to cut out he silicone (larger than then opening) to access the wire. They never leaked.

I always cover as much as I can reach with Dicor, but be careful not to create any paths for water, if you can't seal an item entirely.
__________________
Don & Mary
2014 Newmar Dutch Star - All Electric - 450 ISL
2016 GMC Canyon 4WD Crew Cab
Dutch Star Don is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2015, 10:43 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 51
The F-16's (Air Force fighter planes for non-veterans) are held together with adhesives, replacing rivets. One mine, the original owner had aluminum diamond plate installed on the roof using the 3M emblem tape sold in commercial paint supply houses. This stuff is double stick that will not come off, even on long pieces like rub rails. You clean the perimeter of the housing plate and place the tape around the entire edges, leaving no gaps. Clean the roof with acetone and then carefully place the unit down and press evenly. The weight will provide the pressure and in about 10 minutes it cannot be removed. It is more expensive that Dicor and screws but it also is about triple or more times stronger. Fiberglass will never hold a screw and only invites leaks.
__________________

__________________
hawk57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
roof, scr



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fiberglass roof chaulking Jerrydirks Class A Motorhome Discussions 3 08-18-2015 04:23 PM
Fiberglass Roof - which Dicor Lap Sealant to use? szn8tt MH-General Discussions & Problems 14 04-05-2015 10:52 AM
BriteTek vs Fiberglass Roof?? reubenray Newmar Owner's Forum 28 11-03-2014 06:14 PM
Fiberglass Roof? marilarue Monaco Owner's Forum 3 08-08-2014 04:54 PM
Fiberglass roof to side wall separation jhanan Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 29 05-11-2014 10:18 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.